M20F

I have 67 M20F and it comes pretty comparable to the numbers Dave McGee did in his report though for whatever reason we were way off at the low altitudes: 4500 they got 151.25 I got 140 which is 7.44% off 7500 they got 150.5 I got 144.7 which is 3.82% off 10000 they got 145.25 I got 141.25 which is 2.75% off 10000 I get 145 versus 145.2 when I put in the rayjay and go up to 75% power http://www.mooneypilots.com/mapalog/M20F%20Evaluation/M20F_Evaluation_Report.html Remember numbers never lie, liars figure...

06C is probably the best airport in terms of location to get to the city aside from ORD or MDW. It is right by the train and the FBO should be able to run you up (you could walk if you just had a duffle). KPWK is a non-event but depending on time of day could be a long taxi ride into the city.

What is you Gami spread?

I have always been of the mindset that vacuum + electric is a nice redundancy. If for whatever reason my electrical system fries it is nice to have a vacuum system as a back up and on top of that you can include a cheap stand by vacuum system. Electric AI + Battery Back Up + Vacuum AI + Standby Vacuum + iPad AHRS = much better chance of not dying In short why limit yourself.

Go to iPad settings and turn the brightness down. Even plugged into a wall you can overpower the devices ability to recharge with full brightness and a processor heavy application like Foreflight.

Disregard

Be sure to take the tail as well as they enjoy building them there it is much harder to plug up (I use some towels to varying degrees of success).

+3

Can you replace the O-Ring caps with bladder caps even if you do not have bladders installed? If a new set of caps for $200 works better would be interested in that solution as one of my caps is leaking quite a bit.

I would disagree with this, any type of oil is going to get viscous when it gets cold. Pumping that sludge through the engine, oil cooler, prop governor, etc. isn't a good thing. I agree with Piloto which is unless the oil is loose on the dipstick you probably aren't doing your engine a lot of favors by trying to start it.

I have a Reiff and as noted it heats everything exceptionally well. In answering the question of when you pre-heat just pull out the dipstick and look at the oil on it, if it looks like molasses probably would be a good idea to pre-heat. The temp at which this occurs is going to differ based on the weight of the oil being used and other factors. My two cents

If I am going on any cross country I just file IFR. In 99.9% of the cases you get direct and it helps with traffic/TFR/Clouds/Etc. really a bunch of benefits with no downsides and if in VMC you can drop it whenever you want as well.

If you don't mind answering why did you chose G500 over Aspen?

My prebuy was with Maxwell and it was done as an annual. I paid $1000 with the understanding all airworthy squawks were for the seller or the seller had the choice of giving me $1000 and backing out of the deal. This allowed me to get a very airworthy airplane with no hidden issues and a list of items which I knew would need to be addressed soon (rebuild fuel injection, mag overhaul, etc.). Thus far no major mechanical surprises and I have been able to easily budget and tackle the rebuilding of the accessories and other tweaks. I would rather spend $40K and get an airplane that is solid then spend $30K and get an airplane that needs $20K worth of work that I wasn't aware of when I bought it because I went cheap on the pre-buy. This remains a buyers market and there are a lot of good deals out there.

Thanks everyone!

Hi All, Anyone able to tell me best place to buy and the part # for the o-rings on standard 1967 M20F fuel caps. The smaller o-ring seems to be good as the sunken area of the cap is always full of ice/water, the larger o-rings though appear to be leaking all of a sudden so want to replace them.

I would love a 252 but the reality is the majority of my flying wouldn't make use of one. Then take into account a 252 is 2-3x what you will pay for a good M20F with a Rayjay and has 2 more cylinders plus a host of other potential mechanical issues. When I take a long trip (about 30hrs a year of flying) if its worth it I can fire up the turbo and get into the FL's () and out perform a J easily in both speed and MPG. When I want to plow around locally (about 80hrs a year of flying) I can leave it off and have a simple 4 cylinder NA rock solid IO-360 engine. A big part of it is as always whats your mission. If my mission was similar to Parker's I would be looking to upgrade to a 252, instead I am just looking to pour obscene amounts of money into my M20F to get the perfect airplane I want.

I have Reif Turbo XP with the oil cooler option on my M20F (http://www.reiffpreheat.com/product.htm) with a Kenon Cowl cover. After about 4hrs it is about 70 degrees in the cowl with all parts warm to touch and the oil dripping off the dipstick. Works very good in the Chicago winter and in areas even further north.

Hi I bought my M20F with a Rayjay TN from All American in June of last year and was very pleased with the experience, price, and the airplane. Each of us has to chose what is value to us but I can say that Jimmy/Dave accurately represented the plane the sold me and went above and beyond keeping their word during the pre-buy which cost them about $11K. I am busy dumping money into upgrades because for my type of flying this is the perfect plane and after I sink about $80K into it will really be the perfect plane, but if I were to buy another plane it would be through Jimmy/Dave no question.

Hi Skybrd, I posted a similar issue with my EI MVP-50P. Sometimes it seems to find the peak right away but more often then not it just hovers around and never sets to the first or last to peak. While I know the fuel flow based upon when it has ticked over to peaks to approximately set either ROP or LOP for a given power setting would be nice to know it for certain especially when I use an unusual power setting. Hopefully somebody who has one of these EI units can chime in with the magic advice.

There were only ever 2 reasons where precision versus non-precision mattered. The first was the instrument PTS which has since been amended to allow LPV to be used as a precision approach for the practical. The second is for alternate purposes (600-2 versus 800-2) and for that purpose only ILS/PAR are considered precision. So in effect other then requirements for alternate there is no difference betweeen precision/non-precision. Keep in mind that an ILS has very specific requirements (lights, runway markings, etc.) that do not have to exist for an LPV. In order for a LPV to get to 200-1 it needs to have those things but 300-2 LPV approach for example might have no markings or poor lighting. Ensure you review each specific LPV to know exactly what your getting because it isn't uniform like an ILS is.

I recommend Second this. In regard to oil burn put in six quarts next change and then report back results, not enough information to advise otherwise.

Hi Gary, We hunt on a ranch just outside of Lost Springs (near Lusk).

Some details on slipping M20K/Long body http://www.mooneyevents.com/flying2.html

The one's in the gallery blow up a bit better. Was getting160-165knots TAS with 75% power (about 11gph) at FL210, density altitude was something like 23000. http://mooneyspace.com/gallery/album/13665-ktor-kbuu-08oct12/