M20F

My prebuy was with Maxwell and it was done as an annual. I paid $1000 with the understanding all airworthy squawks were for the seller or the seller had the choice of giving me $1000 and backing out of the deal. This allowed me to get a very airworthy airplane with no hidden issues and a list of items which I knew would need to be addressed soon (rebuild fuel injection, mag overhaul, etc.). Thus far no major mechanical surprises and I have been able to easily budget and tackle the rebuilding of the accessories and other tweaks. I would rather spend $40K and get an airplane that is solid then spend $30K and get an airplane that needs $20K worth of work that I wasn't aware of when I bought it because I went cheap on the pre-buy. This remains a buyers market and there are a lot of good deals out there.

Thanks everyone!

Hi All, Anyone able to tell me best place to buy and the part # for the o-rings on standard 1967 M20F fuel caps. The smaller o-ring seems to be good as the sunken area of the cap is always full of ice/water, the larger o-rings though appear to be leaking all of a sudden so want to replace them.

I would love a 252 but the reality is the majority of my flying wouldn't make use of one. Then take into account a 252 is 2-3x what you will pay for a good M20F with a Rayjay and has 2 more cylinders plus a host of other potential mechanical issues. When I take a long trip (about 30hrs a year of flying) if its worth it I can fire up the turbo and get into the FL's () and out perform a J easily in both speed and MPG. When I want to plow around locally (about 80hrs a year of flying) I can leave it off and have a simple 4 cylinder NA rock solid IO-360 engine. A big part of it is as always whats your mission. If my mission was similar to Parker's I would be looking to upgrade to a 252, instead I am just looking to pour obscene amounts of money into my M20F to get the perfect airplane I want.

I have Reif Turbo XP with the oil cooler option on my M20F (http://www.reiffpreheat.com/product.htm) with a Kenon Cowl cover. After about 4hrs it is about 70 degrees in the cowl with all parts warm to touch and the oil dripping off the dipstick. Works very good in the Chicago winter and in areas even further north.

Hi I bought my M20F with a Rayjay TN from All American in June of last year and was very pleased with the experience, price, and the airplane. Each of us has to chose what is value to us but I can say that Jimmy/Dave accurately represented the plane the sold me and went above and beyond keeping their word during the pre-buy which cost them about $11K. I am busy dumping money into upgrades because for my type of flying this is the perfect plane and after I sink about $80K into it will really be the perfect plane, but if I were to buy another plane it would be through Jimmy/Dave no question.

Hi Skybrd, I posted a similar issue with my EI MVP-50P. Sometimes it seems to find the peak right away but more often then not it just hovers around and never sets to the first or last to peak. While I know the fuel flow based upon when it has ticked over to peaks to approximately set either ROP or LOP for a given power setting would be nice to know it for certain especially when I use an unusual power setting. Hopefully somebody who has one of these EI units can chime in with the magic advice.

There were only ever 2 reasons where precision versus non-precision mattered. The first was the instrument PTS which has since been amended to allow LPV to be used as a precision approach for the practical. The second is for alternate purposes (600-2 versus 800-2) and for that purpose only ILS/PAR are considered precision. So in effect other then requirements for alternate there is no difference betweeen precision/non-precision. Keep in mind that an ILS has very specific requirements (lights, runway markings, etc.) that do not have to exist for an LPV. In order for a LPV to get to 200-1 it needs to have those things but 300-2 LPV approach for example might have no markings or poor lighting. Ensure you review each specific LPV to know exactly what your getting because it isn't uniform like an ILS is.

I recommend Second this. In regard to oil burn put in six quarts next change and then report back results, not enough information to advise otherwise.

Hi Gary, We hunt on a ranch just outside of Lost Springs (near Lusk).

Some details on slipping M20K/Long body http://www.mooneyevents.com/flying2.html

The one's in the gallery blow up a bit better. Was getting160-165knots TAS with 75% power (about 11gph) at FL210, density altitude was something like 23000. http://mooneyspace.com/gallery/album/13665-ktor-kbuu-08oct12/

Yes

After 6hrs of flying out fighting the winds to spend one day hunting antelopes it was nice to come home today with the wind at 200kts in 3.4hrs. http://flightaware.c...1705Z/KTOR/KBUU

Cheapest I have found thus far for those who are interested. http://oilstore.stores.yahoo.net/aerpisenoil.html

My local distributor has stopped carrying Aeroshell 15W-50 any recommendations for online purchasing?

Mine included all the probes, senders, etc. and replaces all engine instruments, vacuum gauge, OAT, Clock, etc. Also has weight and balance screen plus a bunch of other useful things. It was around $9-10K installed but that included cutting a new left side panel, moving some radios, and some other stuff to make it work.

In your last picture it appears the heater box is disconnected?

Don Maxwell said it was like a JPI but did an expletive so much more. I have yet to explore the more exotic features but thus far have been pleased with it. The only thing I really can't figure out are the LOP/ROP screens which sometimes pop right away, other times pop 30 mins in flight, other times never pop. It really cleans the panel up and puts things all in one place and having a TIT is nice for leaning up high (I have a RayJay in my M20F). Can't though give you a comparison to a JPI as I have not flown with one. The only annoyance is that the idiot lights which are not intelligent and can be distracting. I can't run my prop between X and Y over 24" but if I am under 24" it is ok, the idiot lights don't know that and so they flash yellow all the time (you can clear it which holds for 10 minutes for a yellow warning) that over the course of a 4hr flight makes me nuts. On take off my prop over speeds 2700 RPM a bit which leads to a red light. One day my fear is I am going to miss the oil line breaking and pressure going to zero because I am so conditioned by the red blip. The CO2 monitor addition I got with it works great, open the door while taxing it registers. Next year is long range tanks + speed brakes and I am done :-)

Had one of these installed at annual and it works great except I really can't figure out how to get the LOP or ROP screens to work right. I pull back on mixture quite a bit, stop, and sometimes I wait 30 minutes or even longer for it to come up with the Peak ranges. Clearly doing something wrong. Appreciate any guidance by somebody who has one.

I will try to post some pics of mine, they left the clock in (I love that clock) but also did a great job of fixing/wrapping all my PTT and Autopilot buttons. Well worth the money and they do really good work, very happy with the results.