LANCECASPER

Their homepage is not coming up, but individual pages come up. http://www.avidyne.com/products/ifd/ifd550.html

Follow up. There are two relays for the flap actuator, one that controls the up circuit, one that control the down circuit. I swapped relays and got the flaps up and now the down circuit doesn't work so it must mean that the one relay is bad. I ordered two new relays since they are both the same age. I'll find out for sure when I put them in. For once there's actually a cheap part for an airplane. http://www.alliedelec.com/schneider-electric-magnecraft-w67rcsx-3/70184966/

My flaps (M20M) would not retract after takeoff on Thursday. I came back and landed and no movement trying to get them up. They would move further down and are now stuck in the full down position. I pulled off the belly pan and located the micro switches (up limit and down limit) . They were very clean but I hit them with contact cleaner. Still nothing. I tried wiggling the flaps with the switch on to see if that did anything . . nothing. I am suspecting either a bad relay on the up circuit or a bad switch in the cockpit. Any other ideas I'm missing?

Ok let's say they follow your advice. For grins let's say that an item that sells for $10,000 costs them $2000. They now make a gross profit of $8000. Lets say they sell 50 units per month ($400,000 gross profit). But now they cut the price by 50% and sell twice as many. They now sell it for $5000 and make $3000 each but they sell 100 units a month ($300,000 gross profit). They sell twice as many, have twice the paperwork to do, twice the warranty exposure and make $100,000 less. Bad business model.

Central Texas Avionics in Georgetown TX - great people, great shop.

Here's what Simpson Bennett from Avidyne mentioned on January 25, 2017 on the Avidyne Forum: We've been out of major flight testing for a while. Our recent flights were with the FAA designated pilot. Waiting on some reports from that and responses on other items we have submitted. Hope to have some answers and a more accurate idea of when we can expect an overall approval soon. Simpson Bennett Avidyne Corporation Product Manager

Looks like a great product http://www.airwolf.com/aw/products/airwolf-wet-vacuum-pumps

This is a long shot but you don't happen to be turning the prop by hand when moving or positioning the airplane? Turning it even a little the opposite direction will take out a vane. I suppose the same could happen if it back fired.

Since Jose Monroy (Piloto) has spent half of his adult life with his hands inside of a Mooney fuel tank I'd be inclined to trust his judgment.

The guy's name is wrench and he's from NH where the plane is . . . something might be coming together on this.

Unless your hangarmate had a 1978 Cardinal (28v) then he had a 14 volt electrical system in his airplane. The 14v ArcticAir only has a 200 cfm fan instead of the 400 cfm fan on the above unit. On the 28v system with the low setting of 22 amps, 5000 BTU of cooling with a 400 cfm fan should easily cool down a Mooney cabin. The exhaust air can be vented just like the Mooney factory air, through the rear and the condensation can go through a drain hole just like the one that is drilled for the battery gases. Here's a post from a few years ago where it worked well in a Cherokee:

Ok that's three we know of . . .lol

+1 on the Speed Out

It sounds like the manufacturer can set the max amp draw to 22 amps on that unit, or 19 amps on the smaller unit mentioned in my previous post.

Actually yes I do. I already gave it to you. And by the way, you're welcome. The times I've done it I've taken the old screw out, cleaned the threads, put Permatex Aviation Sealant #3 (http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/permatexprod4.php?clickkey=288791) on the new screw and reinstalled and it has worked very well every time. But those aren't my instructions I just followed Don's. But if you like the other people's instructions better follow theirs'.

It looks like all you need is 22 amps - that shouldn't be a problem. I would check with the manufacturer to see if there have been some Mooney installs. However this one should be big enough for the cabin of the Mooney and it only draws 19 amps and saves cargo space and 8 pounds. http://www.arcticaircooler.com/product-p/rac-200-1-24d.htm

Whether you take Dons advice is completely up to you. Of course he's done it hundreds of times and you're thinking of doing it the first time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

http://donmaxwell.com/publications/MAPA_TEXT/_overlay/Fuel Tank Repair_How We Fix Them 2-05.htm This link under the paragraph that says "Panel Screws" says you don't have to drain the tanks.

Are they on the top under the wing walk?

One of the main reasons General Aviation has such a bad accident rate compared to the airlines is that many pilots don't follow proven procedures and they take short-cuts on their checklists. Part of the certification of an airplane is that the POH be approved by the FAA. This has Normal and Emergency procedures which should be followed if you want the safety that was built into the certification.

They have little pointed plastic clips on them. To avoid damaging the leather trim panel you might want to take the seat out and the side panel off.

I heard that one guy put one in a Bonanza and one put one in a Mooney . . surely someone else somewhere has bought one. It's actually a nice looking product but I can't imagine going out on a limb and buying one.

That's OK. Maybe he flies a lot and is almost ready for another engine .. lol.

I think he had it installed with Don Maxwell a couple of years ago.

Sun N' Fun and Oshkosh had great deals on transponders last year. Some were buying the Appareo Stratus ESG to get ADS-B out compliant for $2200 plus about $500 installation. It has a built in WAAS source and slides in where a KT76A fits.