1524J

Point taken.....this was actually covered in Maxwells maintenance seminar and he had examples of worn blocks. However.....if my block was worn enough to release the J Bar I'd consider it a blessing for the gust straps to reveal the problem rather than finding out while rolling on a takeoff or landing.

Unless the strap that attaches to the J Bar wraps around the bar in a manner that it could tension the button that releases the handle, the J Bar isn't going anywhere. If we don't push the handle up far enough for the lock to engage I'm not sure that would be the fault of the gust lock straps.....

When you get to fly a Mooney the instructor will be telling you to watch your airspeed so you end up on the runway and not in the field after you touch down.

I'd say 15% - 20% but I'm charter member of the CB club. I would also factor in the overall price of the product. Charging 35% to 40% of the cost of an oil filter wouldn't bother me as much as paying $140 a piece for 11 shock discs when I know the shop paid $90.

I stacked my new nose gear discs next to the ones I pulled and there was no difference in height. It was at least a 1/2 inch difference on the mains. All mine were 20 years old so it was time for new all the way around.

While you have the sheet metal pieces off the hinge assembly, it's a good time to inspect and comply with service bulletin M20-313A. It's to make sure the filler plate is behind the hinge plate on the aft portion of the assembly. Apparently some were installed incorrectly during assembly. This service bulletin applys to most Mooney models.

You guys with the heavier load might benefit from using Lasars tie down/jack point combination and have a set of jacks ready to take some of the load off while static.

N201MKTURBO has graciously allowed me to use his instructions and I thought I would add some pics and observations of my own when removing the jackscrew in the tail cone for cleaning. Run the trim to the nose up stop. Remove the sheet metal that covers the tail gap and the tail inspection plates. Measure the gap at the bottom of the tail and write it down. Take apart the universal joint just aft of the trim wheel. You'll need to pull the Clevis pins in the pics. Make sure to have new cotter pins when reinstalling. There is a inch and a half collar inside the tube with double pins. On mine the ordination of the holes in the collar and tube had to be reinstalled as removed. In other words, if you spin the interior collar 180 degrees, the Clevis pins will not fit. Not hard to remedy, but can a little frustrating until realized. This is where you measure the distance between the hinge points. The picture is after reinstallation so your measurement will be different. Out of an abundance of caution I also marked my verticle stabilizer with a straight egde laying flat on the dorsal fins. You don't want to lose trim orientation. Slide then torque tube forward until the square coupling on the jack screw comes apart. Remove the trim link in the tail gap. This bolt is hidden under the boot. Just pull it back and you'll have access. Remove the boot. Remove the two bolts that hold in the jackscrew, they are at the four access holes in the sheet metal. Once the bolts are removed, you can now remove the jackscrew. It's takes a little work to get the jackscrew out, push down slightly and it'll come out but take it slow. Also, maintain the orientation of the jackscrew. I keep a shop rag handy and marked the top of the main block and both plates on either side with a sharpie. As N201MKTURBO states, there are very thin shims inside the jackscrew. Don't forget them when you reassemble. Double check to make sure your trim is at the same point as when you started by checking your tail cone distance and/or verticle stabilizer. As always, get your A&P's blessing before starting and have them check your work.

New flap/trim indicator from Lasar.....just be prepared to trim.....a lot.

I did alot of research, made several phone calls about the discussion of stripping the polysulfude sealant from fuel tanks. Everyone I spoke with said that proper flushing, cleaning was the critical step even when using Polygone or SR125A. PPG now advertises SR125A as a paint stripper although they still have photos of a fuel tank on their website.

I would be a little nervous using avgas as a cleaner, especially sprayed. I use kerosene (jet fuel) as it has a higher flash point.

Google TO 1-1-8. Lots of good info concerning painting, corrosion prevention, ect. You might try 3M radial bristle discs for paint removal.

Just replaced my trim/flap indicator. Lasar has them for $135. Get your Dremel tool out.....youl'll need to do lots of trimming. I used my original metal placard.

Just a car lift he converted to a Mooney lift. I can take pics tomorrow if Don doesn't mind (I'm sure he wouldn't) and you'd like a closer look.

Agree Bob, very informative, good company, looking forward to tomorrow.

Or....you've set up for cruise then notice a 172 passing you After a brief search you notice the throttle has worked its way out because you forgot to tighten the friction lock.

Just wanted to give kudos to acpartswhse aka Jerry Pressley for conducting business in a trusting manner. I had contacted Jerry for a couple of hard to find parts and not only did he locate the parts, but shipped them to me without payment upfront. Hard to find someone that conducts business like that nowadays. Thanks Jerry.....now if I can only find my checkbook to pay......

Tom, does the suction cup mount on your windshield ever come loose? My son is wanting to do something similar and I know a couple of MS'ers have said the mounts are not reliable in turbulence. Those are nice yokes!

I'm not happy Paul.....after that review I'm going to have to buy four more for the top plugs and I haven't even got to try the ones I bought for the bottom set.

Thanks guys, we took a wire clothes hanger and were able to fish thru the front of the fuel bay just as you described Bob. Managed to keep the wire towards the front of the wing and away from the aileron rods

Search "Replacing Shock discs" on Mooney Space. Not difficult if you have an A&P willing to work with you.

I noticed today that someone in the past has rerouted the tubing for the wing leveler in the right wing. They went through the wheel well. There doesn't appear to be any other option unless you try to fish from one rib to the next. I hadn't noticed before, but there's a 1/4 hole at the front of the wing in the bay that doesn't have any access panels. I guess it's a vent hole. i am going to mount mine in the right wing, same distance as the pitot tube. Don't want too much weight on one side......

I purchased the CYA AOA with the intent of having Ezell avionics install the unit but I've got all the inspections panels, seats, interior panels pulled for an annual and after searching Mooney Space thought this might be something my IA might be willing to do. I initially thought the wire could be routed through the front of the wing with the nav light wiring but there's a section between the fuel tank and next rib that doesn't have an access panel. I'm not sure how one would replace the pitot tube hose if needed. Anyhow, it appears to me that the only way to route the wires would be through the wheel well exiting aft of the spar. Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks! I know....I've been needy the past couple of days.....

I still believe the unknown was the other panel failures he declared after losing the AI. Is the communication on the recording real time or has it been edited? The lesson I take away, at this point, is when you have a failure of any critical instrument in IMC conditions, act quickly to improve your situation regardless of backup instruments. Still, that's easy to say as I sit here.......

Thanks Clarence, I've been wearing out most of the A&P's and IA's on the field because I'm checking every nook and cranny, system and instrument trying to get the plane ready for my son to take back West. I'm even having an annual performed 4 months early. I might have to put my CB membership on hold......nah....... I do appreciate the help!