1524J

This is the video we prefer in Texas.....shout out to our neighbors to the North. <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/6lGs-tXWpR4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Thought I'd better introduce myself to the community. I didn't see a forum topic that covered introductions so hopefully this won't step on any toes. Carusoam suggested I add a picture of my Mooney to my avatar so I glanced at my profile and it says I'm a female. That may not be too far off although I've got plumbing for a male. I was helping a friend with some construction work the other day and having a difficult time driving a nail at an ackward angle. He suggested I hit with my purse. Maybe there's something there......nowadays who knows. Anyhow, the name is Michael Fuqua. I've been a licensed pilot for 15 years or so.....but always a pilot at heart. My father was Air Force and I used to sneek out on the flight line in Athens Greece until the MP's picked me up. That ended my flight line sorties and resulted in a sore backside for a couple of days. My first plane was a Cherokee 140, 1524J, hence the user name. The old girl is sitting on the tarmac at San Marcos TX. Hurts my heart to see her not being flown. I've owned 5824Q for around five years and had another E model prior. I've mostly been a lurker on the board but will try to make some useful contributions when I can. The knowledge of those on this board amazes me at times. The different personalities always keeps me entertained. Anyhow, I'm based out of KBWD, central Texas. If anyone is ever this way please give me a call. We'll go grab a bite to eat and talk Mooney's.

Yeah.....I've thought about trying for one of those handicap stickers that you hang from your mirror. My handicap is I'm technologically disadvantaged. My five year old granddaughter helps me with computer stuff.

I tried to imagine a situation where I might get an unexpected surprise at my home field in central Texas while in the pattern. Here we have our very own feathered drones called buzzards. I know I've been on short final and had one come close enough that I could have slapped it as it passed by the left side of my windscreen. I've been taught to always try to stay above buzzards as they will dive quickly. Turning base to final might be a situation where my "muscle memory" reaction to buzzards is to pull on the yoke it get above them.

Four way track test @ 7500' 2400 RPM 150kts.

It's a bit of bastard Mooney. '65C model but the panel forward is off a '78J. I mentioned to my CFI that it didn't feel like the nose was coming around far enough. He said I was just getting old and had forgotten how to fly.

Funny you should mention forward slips.....I used to practice them frequently when I was a new Cherokee 140 pilot. Until yesterday, I can't remember doing a forward slip in a Mooney. ( I definitely need work) The Mooney rudder doesn't pull the nose around like I remember in the Cherokee.

You and I are exactly the same. Our pattern technique is almost identical. I just can't help seeing myself sitting in the left seat of the Cirrus in the Florida accident. In my view, he did everything the way he was supposed to right up to the controller giving him panicked instruction to turn right. It appears the panicked nature of the instruction startled him to the point he did just the opposite of the instructions given, then compounded the problem by a climbing steep bank turn. It happened so fast. I'd really like to think I would have handled the situation differently.....but I'm just not sure. What I know I can do......practice emergency situations with more frequency, Yesterday, during my biennial, I did several power off 180 degree turns. My best efforts yielded a 400' lose of altitude. But I was ready mentally....I knew it was coming. If it happened for real during takeoff I think I would need a minimum of 600' (probably more) to get back around and hopefully I would remember to "push" instead of "pull" giving myself a opportunity to clean my shorts once I got back on the ground.

So here's my thoughts......the Cirrus accident in Florida hit a little close to home. I'm an instrument rated pilot with a little over 650 hours, 500 of that in a Mooney. I consider my self an amateur pilot but competent. Sounds a lot like the guy in Florida. I think I've gotten complacent over the years with always flying the standard pattern, never pushing any limits, basically a "tow the line" kinda guy. After reading this thread, viewing a couple of the video's and needing my biennial, I called my CFI and said lets go flying. It'd been awhile since I'd done power off, 180 degree turns or pulling power abeam the numbers to land. I guess my point.....and a little confession, is that I need to practice these maneuvers more than an hour every other year. You get in a situation where split second decisions need to be made and it needs to be muscle memory that kicks in.

I paid $23,000 two and a half years ago. That included sending off all appliances, all new hoses, spark plug wires, etc. Two year/450 hour warranty. Don't forget the Prop. That'll be another $2500 to $3000.

Quote: Shadrach The biggest benefit that I can see to using the Air/oil seperator is that from what I've heard, it minimizes oil blow out when filling the crank case to higher levels. My IO360 tends to blow out anything more than about 6.5 quarts in short order (2-3hrs). Oil loss from 6.5qts to 5.5qts takes ~12hrs or more depending on how the plane is being operated. I've heard it said that with a seperator you can actually run at 7 to 8 qts without puking it out through the breather.

Quote: Shadrach The biggest benefit that I can see to using the Air/oil seperator is that from what I've heard, it minimizes oil blow out when filling the crank case to higher levels. My IO360 tends to blow out anything more than about 6.5 quarts in short order (2-3hrs). Oil loss from 6.5qts to 5.5qts takes ~12hrs or more depending on how the plane is being operated. I've heard it said that with a seperator you can actually run at 7 to 8 qts without puking it out through the breather.

Randy, how did you determine your engine was worn out? Through compression readings? After you "fixed" the problem, did you not have the "oil on the belly" problem that plagues most us. I'm not trying to argue, but for me it's just a matter of convenience for which I am willing to pay. I take compression readings every 50 or so hours, change my oil every 25 hours and send in an oil sample every other change. I'm comfortable that I take steps to "know" the condition of my engine. I quess it just boils down to preference. This is my second Mooney and I've fought oil on the belly enough that I'm willing to try something else.

Alright Mitch......after reason #3 I'm sending my M20 back!!! lol Seriously though....oil loss through the crankcase breather and being able to track that oil loss would be a compelling reason for me. It's just not enough because I'm tired of cleaning the oil off the belly of my baby!! I'm not convinced that the oil lost through the crankcase breather would have any more contaminates than the oil recirculated back through the system. I figure that's why we have filters and we change our oil on a regular basis. Although I quess the argument could be made that if your losing enough oil through the crankcase breather, all you need to do is change the filter every once in a while as the oil is constantly being changed. I think I tried using that logic w/ my father once on the first car I had. For some reason, he didn't seem to agree w/ my train of thought.

Alright Mitch......after reason #3 I'm sending my M20 back!!! lol Seriously though....oil loss through the

Appreciate the input Jose'. I noticed the instructions said to install the elbow fitting in the valve cover box on the centerline of the cover. I plan on mounting my M20 behind the oil cooler but closer to the firewall as high as I can get it w/out it contacting the cowl. That puts me running the drain line off the separator under the oil cooler. It doesn't appear that I would have any noticeable down slope once I pass the oil cooler to the valve cover. How have you routed your drain line from the separater to the valve cover?

Hey all....hoping someone can help me w/ a M20 air/oil separator install. Instructions state the best location for the return line off the M20 is to a low pressure port on the accessory case. I've been unable to locate a low pressure port on my A3B6D engine. The three other options are 1) welding a "Y" to the oil return line off the #4 cylinder 2) Tying into the rocker cover box 3) tying into the oil fill tube. It doesn't appear to me that I'd have near the recommended down angle required if I try #2 or #3, although from what I've reseached, #2 appears to be the method of choice. Any suggestions would be appreciated!

Quote: 1524J

Quote: triple8s I too have been thinking about the dreaded reseal job. I even went so far as to ask a friend who has lots of Mooney parts for a couple of old tank panels so I could experiement with ways of removing the sealant. After messing with them I decided I would put it off a bit longer and just pay to have the resealed. So this solvent will dissolve the old sealant enough so that it will wash out? What about the residue and the fuel system? Are there any unusual issues if you have aux tanks? Should you strip and reseal all the tanks if only one is leaking? The only real leak I have is the left Aux tank just outboard of the left MLG, I usually just put a bit of fuel in it when filling the mains to keep it wet, unless if I am going on a long trip. The aux tanks were put in in the late 80's, on average how long does the sealant last?

I quess it would help if I gave ya'll (yes....I'm in Texas....ya'll) some idea of what I know to this point. 1. Removing the access panels. I know Don Maxwell has an article in MAPA stating they use a sharpened putty knife and a dead blow hammer to gently work around the access panel until it comes loose. I have spoken w/ others that say there is a lip just inside the access panel and it's best to use a heat gun to soften the adhesive until it releases. The heat gun worries me because I'm not interested in bubbleing the paint but at the same time, I certainly don't want to damage the lip that may be lurking just inside the access panel. 2. I purchased four of the 6oz. sem kits of CS3204B and two of the CS3330 for the access panels as well as a quart of 1005 for the top coat. I plan on doing one tank at a time and am uncertain if I've got the quantity I need to finish at least one tank. I also plan on thinning the CS3204B w/ Tolulene to make my own Class A sealant that I can brush on when I've finished filleting the seams. 3. Although it's a moot point.....I decided to go w/ the SR125A vs the Polygone. After speaking w/ several people, I was told it would take anywhere from five to fifteen gallons of Polygone to complete both tanks and the SR125A would only take two gallons for both tanks. The SR125A costs around $95 a gallon and I had to purchase a case which contains 4 gallons. The Polygone was about $175 for a five gallon bucket of gel coat. Seems that the SR125A must be a stronger concentrate than the Polygone although I have not verified this. 4. I plan on taping off the bottom of the wing around the access panels and seams to try and prevent too much damage to the paint. Another reason I went w/ the SR125A, it has the consistancy of syrup and my thinking is it may not migrate though the seams as easy as a liquid. I'm going to try to be very careful w/ the MEK when cleaning up the remaining sealant. Thanks for the replys......ya'll.

Hey all! I know this topic has been discussed numerous times, but I'm looking for specific info from those who have acutally performed a reseal. Our Mooney is down for an annual and we decided to bite the bullet and perform a complete strip and reseal. I've reseached quite a bit already but would still be interested in any tips or advice. I've decided to go w/ SR125A for the stripper and Flamemaster for the sealant.