kortopates

Agreed! on my K going from the 2 blade alumin prop to the 3 blade MT was good for about 15 lbs. A couple lbs better without prop deice. I don’t recall but would expect a light weight starter would get a few lbs, but better adding alternator when coming from a generator. It’s hard to imagine much more than about 20 lbs without knowing specifics. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Circuit Breaker Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The volume knob. there is also the CB too. Look at the satellite page next time you have a reception issue. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Absolutely! think about the problematic logistics if anything goes wrong with the plane out of the country to get an idea of the risks involved to the owner. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

it alarms at the stated limitation - 2600 in your example. I don’t think any of primary monitors do it differently unfortunately. They do allow setting additional user alarms, (they call it something else though) to alarm at a lower value such as setting a user alarm for CHT at 400F rather than just go by the limitation CHT redline that informs you that you need to replace your cylinder if it go over redline. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I concur with that as well. I have a student with a 1990 M20J 28v electrical system and although the light may come on at 800 rpm after awhile it’s never on by 1000 rpm let alone 1200 rpm. Makes me wonder if brushes are worn or even a weak battery. But the annunciator voltage light is adjustable too so it may be out of calibration as well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Really don’t need the diagram. just get under the wing and the inspection covers that are sealed are quite obvious compared to the ones that are not. The outboard sender is at the outer side of the main tank, just realize the extended tank is further out from that but also further back or aft in the wing, and of course without a sender. Even if you end up removing a couple wrong panels you can’t hurt anything. Unlike a dry inspection panel it’s very very difficult to remove a sealed wet panel. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The Garmin EIS has become incredibly popular as they have developed a large market share. It doesn't really matter which Garmin display is used, GI-275, G3X or G500, they are all almost identical in their capabilities and their software continues to improve. But the GI-275 is the smallest screen and perhaps the most challenging to get everything you want on a single screen display. The other nice thing with the Garmin route is you get greater integration of the engine data with flight data if you are either a Garmin Pilot user or down the road install a G3X. If you went the G3X route, you would just move the EIS functionality to the G3X and probably swap the Gi-275 EIS with a GI-275 adhrs. But lots of possibilities. But I'll add I personally prefer the EDM-900 over the Garmin EIS despite having a G500 and GI-275 backup adhrs driving my GFC-500. I prefer how everything is on one dedicated screen on the EDM-900 that is quite readable - without cycling through screens or menus. It doesn't matter which route you go, any primary monitor will require adding all the sensors you presently don't have. So it really comes down to your own personal preferences and how you intend to fit it into your panel.

Only indirectly, advance is controlled by MAP, Lower MAP advances timing, so you'd be able to take advantage of it at your cruise altitude. Still though advance is not a big advantage to me but the added reliability over conventional mags. But this is a personal choice only you can make.

I tried the blanket trick once and gave up on it since unless you have some one standing on it on top at the door, the blanket slides down immediately. What's works easily for us is to pick up the dog by its harness with front hand and hold legs with second arm just to move dog up and above flap to wing walk area. You'll want a dog harness to secure them in the back anyway rather than just a collar that could break their neck in an off field landing. That's worked for both of 75lb labs for me, but probably not for my wife. But now its really easy with our 35lb terrier mix. Unloading I do the same in reverse so they don't scratch the flaps, but that's also where a blanket will work fine since you'll be at the door to hold it in place without needing 2 people. I have a friend that used to travel with two big Great Dane's, the size of miniature horses! Don't think they would fit in the rear of my Mooney, but she took the rear seats out of her Cardinal, with SUV sized back cargo space, and they fit well that way.

You're right too much we don't know. But I was betting electric trim commanded down. But any example I come up with the AP commanding it down, with the pilot pulling back should cause AP to disconnect. Really too little info to go on.

I would agree this has to be a mechanical jam in the trim. Not electrical or AP servo issue. I too have never seen a jam since installing the newer SB jam nuts which should be standard on the Ultra. But like Rich said, maybe not. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

make sure you have the richest carb first. the alteration is to increase max fuel flow for the richest carb but only for power flow installs that have lean EGT’s and high CHT’s. 380 chts are not hot - not at all! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s not an STC but an alteration. Are you on Savvy by chance? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks, Time in service would be very interesting. For what its worth, I learned from Mike that George Braly (GAMI and TATI) has developed a very elegant replacement V-band clamps with no rivets or spot welds that could offer a terminating action for the A.D.. They are working with their ACO to get an AML STC for these clamps.

How old is that v-band clamp? Is it really as rusted as it looks? Doesn’t really look like exhaust soot, but maybe? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Randomness you describe is usually an installation issue. Make sure it’s installed in accordance with the Mooney drawing in your IPC without any 90 degree fittings (45 are okay), we’ll covered with fire sleeve and no super tight bends in hose adjacent to the transducer. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There must be a few dozen threads are flying with dogs. Let google be your friend to search MS. I’ve owned two Labs, sequentially, and now my Mooney sized 35lb Terrier. All have been in the backseat with a harness and leash tied to shoulder belt just in case of bad turbulence and to keep them in the back seat. But we’re two pilots up front with no room anyway. But regardless i sure wouldn’t want a dog trying to get on our lap in the front seat. All of my dogs have done much better at altitude than ourselves and flying at 16K has never been a problem. But although most dogs including yours will be fine too, some dog breeds, like pugs, do have breathing issues. Hearing protection is the challenge. Vets have told me that won’t live long enough to worry about it but i could always tell none of my dogs like the noise. They’ve all had mutt muffs on. But keeping them on is a learned behavior. Labs aren’t the smartest breed both took quite some time to learn to keep the mutt muffs on. Both required re-positioning it properly after startup before they would leave it there in flight. My Jack Russel terrier though is much smarter and in just a couple flights, quickly learned to keep it on before start up. Some use a crate, which makes sense for an unknown dog. But not for a family member unless your expecting problems. Never even came close to a dog having an accident in the back seat either. But we make sure they get a bit of a walk before takeoff to relieve themselves. Thankfully there are many more pet friendly hotels since we first started flying with dogs 30 yrs ago. That was always the first problem before we could depart. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There is a adjustment pot screw at the bottom of the unit for adjusting the volume. Be careful as the pot is inside and any excessive pressure will dislodge it. It’s just glued into position. But if the worst happens the unit can be opened up and the pot re-glued into position. But note it can’t be powered on without it being installed as the case is grounded to the airframe. Are you asking about the bulb for the AAS button. If so, the whole assembly is replaced if it’s goes - it’s not expensive. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The volume on the P2 is adjustable if it’s too loud for you. Love mine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks like there is a storm scope antenna further forward under the belly.

Its at this junction between deciding to spend money on fixing your CDT/TIT or buying additional primary replacement gauges that most people make the decision to upgrade to modern primary monitor like the EDM-900. The modern monitor will provide for full data logging, greatly increasing your logged parameters beyond EGT & CHT to include FF and all other power parameters as well as eliminate future need to replace the next primary gauge that goes bad like MAP or RPM. And its an investment that actually increases the resale value of your Mooney. If your EDM 730 is decades old, you really want to replace the old EGT and CHT probes and harness anyway with a new monitor. Personally I would still keep the turbo plus differential gauge just because of it's convenience to you.

Garmin GFC-500 - Many, many threads here on the GFC-500 - use google to help search.

Don't guess, download your engine monitor data, yet an inflight lean Mag check provides much better data than an ground mag check, the ground check will show any fouled plugs; and specifically which plug(s).

I believe the stop tabs that Paul invented at Lasar where incorporated into Mooney's Truss design sometime in the 80's - so not necessarily rebuilt.