kortopates

My sympathy's with the unreadable logs and an owner that doesn't want to copy them. This is why some owners shouldn't leave selling their planes to brokers who know how to represent planes with readable logs etc. But that doesn't do you any good. I just recommend contacting Savvy 8 hrs ago but maybe you beat me too it. I don't have an explanation for the delay, but the office is closed now till Tuesday. (Iam vacation now for the next 10 days). But of course readable logs are prerequisite to doing this and I would think that you would want to start with that before scheduling the pre-buy. I don't know what to say about the owner except that every potential purchaser is going to have the same issue you are so hopefully the owner will come around when you refuse to accept this.

If your looking for professional help with the logs review and counsel throughout the pre-buy process look into doing a pre-buy with SavvyAviation.com Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am surprised the aircraft even climbed at 10 GPH at over spec max FF! But maybe your FF isn't calibrated either. I've seen many aircraft not make power because of excessive mixture. Do you recall your TIT at full power? Glad this was your last flight with this engine, your test pilot luck could be running out! Be careful with the new engine doing ground runs and high speed taxi runs to check things out thoroughly before you commit to taking off.

If anybody has these kind of questions in the future, all possible errors are explained in the FAA's "Public ADS/B Performance Report (PAPR) Users Guide" available on the web. This one was an altitude issue per the guide.

If you review the ADS/B website you'll see they publish a circular or article on all the errors and their meaning and suggest you look there. Incidentally, the GTX-345 automatically switches to Altitude mode using the airspeed source (airspeed switch or GPS ground speed) set up per the installer.

Since you're sharing your HR stats I gotta ask what you do for cardio exercise to stay fit. I love a great cardio workout myself and mountain bike to maintain mine as well as rock climbing. Good for you in keeping fit since Pilots have to stay fit! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Congratulations! The 231 is going to be a lot to handle coming from the Cutlass. But you'll get there and the journey will be fun, but don't rush the transition training - it's going to take awhile. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Until you go through the calibration procedure for adjusting the HP Constant you can't rely on the %power parameter on your EDM - right now its probably garbage in and garbage out. (Defaults on the JPI would be based on normally aspirated engine making full power at 30", as well which is probably why you are seeing what you are. ) You will also have to verify the Engine HP field is set to 210 for your engine, and if your unit has a Engine Constant you'll want that set to 13.7 (this is for LOP calc's, but it may only be on the TSO'd for primary units e.g. EDM-9xx). Also I suggest you verify or go through the MAP calibration procedure to make sure that is as accurate as you can get it. Personally I don't pay any attention to the calculated %power field but it can be helpful in cruise to know the approx % power you are at. Its actually intended to read cruise power most accurate - not takeoff, but I suggest you calibrate to your max cruise power setting - whatever it is you use. But at takeoff you should be scanning for MAP, RPM and TIT and abort if TIT is going north of 1500+ Properly set up, TIT should be well under 1450F. TIT will go high from lack of FF as well as vapor lock so I prefer it over FF when you can't see both. With your manual wastegate and intercooler you should targetting about 37.5" as your redline MAP. BTW, the weld that broke off to hold the bracket to secure the cross over pipe is a common problem on these engines and easily fixed with a weld to be as good as new. The problem is that the #5 exhaust tube needs to come off to properly welded and sometimes that could mean taking off #3 as well in order to get #5 off if the exhaust tubes are stuck together. There would be no point in replacing the #5 tube just to fix that, spend the savings on getting the entire exhaust overhauled where necessary and you'll be much much better off!

I only know of rudder pedal extensions for brake pedals. But I question the value of putting in dual brakes just to get to reachable rudder pedals. You are in for sticker shock for how much that will cost you. Instead I suggest getting the 3" extensions for the pilot side and letting her have the left seat. As a new pilot, don't expect her to transition to the Mooney from the right seat. But now that you are probably getting comfortable in it, you might be very well ready to learn to fly it from the right seat. You can always add dual brakes later on after your wife is flying the Mooney. My wife also requires the 3" extensions and she now owns the left seat and I stick to the right unless I am flying solo. But as an instructor I am use to flying from the right seat. We also have dual brakes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That sure looks like a common case of vapor lock that should be easily suppressed with turning on the aux fuel pump per your POH to stabilize fuel pressure. As soon as it stabilizes, you may turn off the aux pump but that would be the first step too see if indeed its vapor lock. The higher you go in altitude the more susceptible the fuel system is to vapor lock and the more volatile the symptoms are. Some of the more modern POH's including the Acclaim call for the (aux) boost pump to be tuned on in climb above 12K and in cruise at or above 18K'. But warns us it can happen anytime lower and to use the boost pump whenever it happens. The M20M POH, for whatever reasons is very lacking in details but does address this in a note in the Normal procedures for Cruise that the boost pump may need to be turned on for this and also in the emergency procedures under vapor suppression to use the boost pump to clear and cool the fuel system. Let us know it that clears it up, since most likely that's all this is. Its actually quite common in our turbo charged aircraft.

A couple of things to consider: 1) Engine Monitor - Do you have a TSO'd primary engine monitor giving you CHT's like an EDM 900 or an advisory unit like an EDM 730 or 830? If the former, then one cyl will have a non-standard CHT probe that could be running cooler or hotter but off 30-60 degrees depending on the actual probe type. You need to take this into account and what cyl the non-standard probe is installed as it likely its installed in your #1 cyl since that is a common cyl for installing the OEM CHT probe preventing a standard probe from being installed. 2) Min CHT temps- Continental's CHT limitations are from 250-460F. Although your POH wants you to keep CHTs at or above 250F at all times, we've learned a lot more about engine management since the POH's were written and Its fine to operate in cruise below well 250F. But what we should pay attention to is before going to full power we should increase power slowly or moderately to get all the cylinders to at least 250F before going to full power as well as oil temperature to at least 100F (which is even more important than CHT in these engine). This is usually very easy to do. (but important to keep in mind when practicing power off landing or glides to a landing). 3) Cowl flaps settings - The factory did a lot of testing with an Engineer at Continental to establish the closed cowl flap setting, which IIRC is in the Service Manual. They found if the cowl flaps were closed entirely, that in addition to cooling problems, it caused back pressure in the top of the cowling that actually caused a forward area of turbulence in front of the air inlets that significantly increased drag and decreased prop efficiency resulting in a several knot airspeed loss (I forget detail of precise number of knots but recall in the range of 4+ kts). The lesson they learned is that fully closed should actually be ~1.5" open, but see maintenance manual as my recollection may be off a bit. Overall though, I can't agree more with the comments above to address any baffling issues. But it also just as important to make sure your engine is getting enough fuel at takeoff or max power in climb and to do a thorough mixture analysis to make sure your mixture distribution is adequate to prevent hot cylinders from to lean a mixture at climb power when IAS is low. I see a surprising number of M20K's with inadequate max FF. Fuel set up is suppose to be checked at every annual, but because of the specialized gauges needed to do it, it is often overlooked. It shouldn't be and if the plane does have accurate FF, it really simplifies the max FF adjustment too, making it much easier. You'll notice of course that all performance data in the POH is based on Closed Cowl flaps because opening the 231 cowl flaps has a significant penalty - this was significantly addressed in the 252 and Encore models. But even opening them in trail is a 5 kt penalty with fully open a whopping 14 knot penalty. So you really want to make sure your cowl flaps are rigged properly and your baffling is in good shape. The crazy thing about the performance tables, with showing only data for cowl flaps closed, is that its virtually impossible to run at max cruise power up high without the cowl flaps open in trail - that is if you care about cylinder longevity since the POH only cautions you to keep CHTs within 440F - which is too high! Which is what led to so many top overhauls.

Pretty much the same wing in all models. Your hand stays at the access panel, often a foot or two away from the rib with the hole you are lining up the stiff tubing to push through. Correct that you typically can't see the hole you are aiming for while your hand is in the hole. I never needed to use an inspection mirror to see where the grommet was - but that is an option. So you'll push it till you hit a stop and then remove hand to peer in to see what kind of correction to make next till you've got it. It's not that hard and you sure don't need to make impossible reaches to the ribs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The whole point of the stiff tubing or piano wire is that you don't need to reach any further than the tubing or wire - just to grab it and push it forward aiming for next hole you want it pass through using a light to see it. Continue to push it through till its at least over the next removed inspection panel where you will move to next, and grabbing it so that you can push it through the next hole. You'll start at one end - either from inside the cockpit going out to the leading edge of the wing or from the wing root where the old power supply was mounted on an inspection panel.

Thank goodness for over 50 years of progress! A modern Mooney POH makes it simple - its all in the speed - and assumes this isn't your first landing, sparing us from telling us how to round out/flare/flair-out....

Why don't we quote current modern references. This is from the FAA's Airplane Flying Handbook. You'll note these days the term Flare has been replaced with the term Round-out. Although some may not care for change after many years of using Flare, but you got to hand it to the folks that updated this handbook for the FAA, since it a more apt name to describe the process IMO. But I am sure for most of us, when we learned to fly it was called a Flare. Or even a "Flare Out" if your old enough to have used Wolfgang Langewiesche like apparently @Hank did (good one Hank!) And Jim, don't give Clarence such a hard time, he was just making fun of us all for trying to make landing a Mooney sound so difficult or special!

Clarence's Piano hinge wire works really well. But you have to real careful pushing the wire through holes with lots of other wires because the sharp wire can damage the insulation on wires and cause shorts. So instead I use Poly Flo tubing (same stuff used for your Pitot and Static lines) to fish wires. Its blunt and will not damage anything and is much easier to pull through everywhere you encounter bends unlike the piano hinge wire. But you'll need to stiffen the first 6' or so by heating with a heat gun. Then you'll have the required stiffness to push the front through a hole from several feet back. You still need to remove all the inspection panels along the wire run path, and then snake the Poly Flo tubing through in sections. (I was actually able to skip a few inspection panels on the second wing since I knew the topography after doing the first wing.) Before I begin I push a knotted end of the wire into the end of the Poly Flo tubing so that its wedged in there tightly and will pull the wire through behind it without the wire slipping back out. Works really fast and doesn't damage anything.

Video links wouldn't work for me, but I wouldn't expect to get anything useful from them. What would be really helpful though is to download your engine monitor data, preferably with a 1 sec data recording rate or sampling rate, and see what the data shows. More specifically, what is leading what. For example, is the FF changes alone triggering the events that EGT follows or could it be MAP, or even RPM fluctuations, that has accompanying FF fluctuations that are followed by EGT fluctuations. You may also need to fly the Savvy Test profile to provide the diagnostic data to enable separating mixture from ignition issues as well. http://content.savvyanalysis.com/static/pdf/SavvyAnalysisFlightTestProfiles.pdf You're probably not going to get much diagnostic value out of a video. But your mechanic is right that its unlikely to be your fuel pump. See where the data takes you.

Get the aeroquip version, much more expensive than the inexpensive version but the cheaper one is too high inside the sump on this engine and wouldn't work right. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks good. Lube any of the controls now that might be stiff while the access is easy. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They have been for things like hail damage, but I suspect if both sides are damaged new is the better option. At least he may not need new control weights too! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'd make sure the unit has the option to download data from a USB port before installing. If not, you can get it upgraded. Otherwise it has very little diagnostic value these days. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Exactly as @bradp said it! The straight weight oils are known for sticking to surfaces longer than the multi-weight oils and therefore have provided better corrosion resistance to plane that are not flown regularly. You can see this in action by watching the oil level rise on your dip stick as the days progress from shutdown and compare the difference between a single vs multi-weight. On the other hand, frequently flown aircraft aren't as vulnerable to corrosion from sitting and can benefit more from a multi-weight oil that will flow more optimally when cold at startup. Or so goes theory behind it.

One can't blame wear on the starter adaptor do to Camguard. But its certainly a fact that as the starter adaptor wears out, that since it works off of friction, that anything you do to reduce the oil viscosity (the fluids resistance to flow) is going to allow the starter adaptor to slip earlier. A few ounces of Camguard though has a much smaller effect though than going from a single weight oil to a multi-weight oil since the multi-weight oil is going to thicken significantly less at ambient cold start temperatures than its single weight version. So although its true that a Continental should be able to get a few more hours out of its starter adaptor by using a straight weight oil without any thinning agents I personally think it matters little in the big picture where its more important to optimize our oil formula to the true needs of the engine as whole. Thus I would put much greater priority in reducing chance of internal corrosion as the engine sits between flights, which Camguard is designed to do, and oil that reduced high wear at startup which could mean a multi-weight if conditions warranted or changing single weight oils between summer and winter, and avoiding the popular synthetic blend Aeroshell 10-40 because of it high 50% synthetic PAO content which has been shown to add to starter adaptor slipping, as well as have poor anti-corrosion protection, with increased oil leakage as well as result in high copper in oil analysis. When you do need a multi-weight oil Phillips XC multi-weight which is 100% mineral oil (0% PAO) is preferred but its best to combine it with Camguard since the Phillips XC oil alone doesn't offer much in its additive package. But another compromise is Exxon Elite which is only 25% PAO or 75% mineral and has an excellent additive package. RAM has additionally reported that in their experience they see engines that are frequently run do best on the pure 100% multi-weight mineral oil and the engines that are not frequently run do better on a straight weight 100% mineral oil.

As Anthony said, try LASAR as well as your IPC for part numbers since most 252's included the option for dual 28V alternators which included the dual red field switch shown above as well as added circuit breaker for the second alt field, an Over Voltage light next to the added CB, and a dual load meter to monitor each alternators output. They mostly used duplicate identical voltage regulators too, although their was a single integrated voltage regulator option that came out but just for the 28V 252's/Encore's. Of course not all of these will work for your 14V installation but it will gives you the details of how the system was setup and installed.

A lot has been written on this topic, including by myself with CIES senders with the EDM900 with my long range tanks. Use the search function, but here is one thread that references the CIES resource thread that has a lot more on this in the context of using CIES senders but that won't change anything from a calibration perspective. But you do of course want to set it up as a single tank per side since that's all your senders can measure. Yet since you have the EDM900 you should really consider going with the CIES senders.