Flying Crab

Thanks. Selling and buying not possible but I’m all electric so I’ll look into backup off the vacuum system.

Hey guys, Have a 231 approaching overhaul time and was wondering if there’s an upgrade I can do such as an MB engine as a replacement for my current LB. My main want is another electric source ie. back up Gen/Alt. Any suggestions?

Hey guys, not trying to change your religion, just an old geezer sharing thoughts. But my 231 (stock as a rock) seems to run nice when the needles In the gauges are right in the middle of the green arc. No “trouble shooting” required in the 300 hr. I’ve flown it the past two years.

After 50 years of flying civilian and military, (ATP Airplane, ATP Helicopter, A/P mechanic, Flight Engineer Turbojet) here’s my two cents worth: If you like to troubleshoot problems and spend more money in the long run, fly LOP in airplanes with engines that were not engineered nor designed to operate in that regime. Engineers and test pilots make good money writing POH’s that are the compromise between power, reliability, and longevity. Reinventing the wheel puts money in the aftermarket gizmo makers. Fun costs money, how much do you want to spend?

Hey JP12, I have arguably the nicest stock, except paint, (repainted at the same vendor who paints new ones out of Kerrville) interior, and avionics, 231 in the country. 1200 hours on the engine. Great compressions, oil changes every 25 hrs. Never touched except, vacuum pump, and alternator. Dugosh has done three annuals on it. I am looking at moving on to a Baron or TTX and would consider offers. If interested I'll have it back in the Houston area in October. It spends the summers inside in a dry Colorado hangar. Summers flying in and out of 7600 almost requires turbo. Can send pics. My advice though is buy a 252. Two alternators is a big deal. Otherwise bang for the buck a 231 is hard to beat. Let me know. If interested I'll send pics.

Question: Can I charge my battery through the external power port in the fuselage?

Hey guys, I never said that ROP was the only way to go, I said "I believe that running lean of peak was saving pennies to spend dollars later on". Having said I feel like the the guy that's denying global warming, which I actually do. The point is I hate to say it but I've been around long enough to know that what's the wonder drug or food or whatever of today is the poison of tomorrow. People that are so-called "experts" on a subjects whatever they are, are getting paid by somebody who has a skin in the game. So be skeptical. Don't buy into something just because it's a popular perception. I operate as general rule on the "kiss" method. Heat, to an extreme, is an adversary to metal. Run cool, live long. As I stated in a previous post, I've live through three engine failures, all due to exhaust valve failures. This was back in my Bell47 helicopter days which were notorious for high cylinder head temps. This is the last time I'll post on this subject till I get 2,000hrs. on this engine and we'll see if the same cylinders are along for the ride.

To each his own. If you believe something works for you stick with it. Been in this industry since 1968. Have 19,000 hrs of time in cockpits of all sorts. Have had 3 catastrophic engine failures (two at night) on aircraft with reciprocating engines. All three were attributed to exhaust valve failures. Over the years I feel much better when I see temp gauges right in the middle of the green. So if LOP works for you, go for it. But Like I said I feel better with ROP. The cost of being an old timer.

Don't believe everything you read on the internet boys, you just might end up dating a French model. Fact is, the proof is in the pudding as they said in the old days. If you have an engine that's made it to TBO untouched I'll be listening. Until then I'll be the cat that's running ROP.

Yea it was back when scientists were touting global cooling.

They must have been teaching old wives tales in the flight engineer school and the A/P school I went to

I'm a fairly new (2 years) owner of stock 231K LB. As of now everything in it except electric tach and G530W is as it it came out of Kerville. Commute between Houston and Pagosa Springs Colorado in the summer. Coming out of Colorado normally fly at 15,000-17,000. . I personally think that intercooler and waste gate money could be better spent on avionics upgrade. This engine can be monitored and flown in a manner that I believe will return exceptional performance and longevity compared to higher cost aircraft. I hear about running LOP which I think is saving pennies to spend real money later on in cylinder replacement or early engine overhaul. One of the things that fuel does in a cylinder is provide lubrication. This airplane is not a 172 where there is basically three positions of the throttle and mixture. This airplane has to be monitored and manipulated depending on the phase of flight you're in. There are airplanes out there that can fly faster and require less input from the pilot but as the old saying goes "speed costs money, how fast do you want to go?". I have 1400 hrs. on my engine with the original cylinders. This is my method of operation (so far). Take off 40in. 2700. 1000ft. transition to climb at 120 knots 40in.2600. Adjust throttle to maintain 40 in. Throughout the climb (attainable) up to around 17,000 DA. Manipulate cowl flaps as needed to keep oil and cht's in the green. Level flight regardless of altitude 31 in. 2500rpm 1450-1475 TiT. This should get about 11.5 - 12.5 gph. Below 10,000 that should be around 160 TAS. 10,000-15,000 about 165 and above 15,000 around 170. This airplane will definitely go faster but speed will cost you money.

got gdl-88. Page is up that has destination metar on G530. Will the page show the latest metar when a new one comes out OR will I have to change pages and return to refresh to the latest info?

Thanks guys. All input appreciated. I will be updating as things progress along with pics. Thanks again

Hey guys, going all out after three years ownership. G500, Keeping G530W, adding G430W, Jpi 930, G5. Total gut job. My installer wants no steam gauges. Not sure if I'm sold on non steam backup. Anyone been through this before with comments would be appreciated.