Igor_U

This is correct, or at least it was in 2021 when I got a rebuilt IO360 from Lycoming. On my engine, case was cracked and couldn't be repaired. Also previous OH, done by well known shop in CA, screwed up and mixed the narrow deck camshaft and accessory case on my Wide deck engine. This and few other things was found out after the shop I intended to use (forgot the name: in Kamloops, BC) took the engine apart for OH. Basically, they told me Factory rebuilt would be a better deal (Lyc OH was not an option). They placed the call to factory sales rep and so factory accepted the engine in pieces, even I've heard often that can't be done. It can! It sure helped they were decent size shop and dealer of the engines and had a great relation with factory.

Not much of the details are known but it seems weather was bad. There are few news links at this ANS page: https://asn.flightsafety.org/wikibase/484185 It's an M20R Ovation. I always wondered about N-Registered planes based and operating in Europe; how does it work, are there any advantages?

I installed mine some 5 years ago and I love it. Easier starts, and supposing better LOP ops but my IO360 never had issue with that. As jetdriven mentioned you need to run the wire from the battery but removing the panels and wiring was done by me so it didn't cost as much. We install it as Left mag and removed the Shower of sparks and wiring at the same time. I would recommend it.

There are few on Ebay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/225853262181) and also BAC parts sales have one with no bushings. I didn't check the IPC but could you buy bushings separately and installed? It's disappointing that after all the years LASAR still has issue getting their PMA but hey, look at Boeing and their problems with FAA...

Good post by Four Seven Uniform. I think he's right, this could not happened due to vibration or aerodynamic forces in flight. I would think crack existed for a while but IDK. I am not sure how easy access is from the inside, to install the doubler. Tube structure is underneath and might be difficult to work this area. For sure, stop drill the crack and try to provide some pictures with interior removed. Good luck.

you might want to check the Mooney flyer website: https://themooneyflyer.com/cfi.html Good luck.

Ah, that makes sense. I was actually referring to the sealant condition after using 100UL. IIRC on that test video #3, A/P is claiming that after after 100UL softened the sealant, using the 100LL made sealant hard (cured) again. I hope i remember right. Thank you

Please help us understand: Was that a typo and were the tanks resealed and no w not leaking? How much work was it done and what condition was the sealant? Thank you.

I thought Radio/Radar was both commonly used. From Wiki: "A radar altimeter (RA), also called a radio altimeter (RALT), electronic altimeter, reflection altimeter, or low-range radio altimeter (LRRA), measures altitude above the terrain presently beneath an aircraft or spacecraft by timing how long it takes a beam of radio waves to travel to ground, reflect, and return to the craft."

Try contact Kevin Westbrook. He was working for Brittain for years and still helps people on the list. Good luck. @Kevin Westbrook

I use the 17HP riding mower to back my plane into the hangars. Years ago, when I got it, I tried to back it in and found it very difficult. my buddy welded the bar attachment on the front end of the tractor and problem was solved. it's much easier now.

Pete, in my neck of woods, Paine field uses two frequencies for it's two runways (16R/34L=132.95 and 16L/34R= 120.2) and often using one controller when traffic is "light". BFI has the same, however I am not sure how often they use one controller nowadays. They certainly did in the past when I frequent the field. I think it's not that unusual on bigger airport.

I vote for #4, I always liked metallic gray with black. I like the 3D N numbers but I would suggest those should lean forward and not aft (backwards). This was suggested to me when I pained my plane by well know shop in CA, I went with their recommendation and was not sorry. Good luck.

Is that whack in the forehead really necessary?

I admit that 12 hours seems on the high side, however.... Years ago I admitted to my A&P that I should never complain on some of his "high" quotes. Why? Because I started doing most of the work myself and it took longer. Even after number of years working on my plane. And while lower cowl removal takes time, installation is really PITA. It's the best to have a helper (more billable hours) and attaching RAM air cable is very difficult due to 2nd landing light my plane has it there. You might have an oil cooler on that location which might be worse, IDK. Then, there's that infamous $700 Intake duct attached by 6 bolts to the cowl that are difficult to reach. I can easily spend up to an hour to disconnect or put it back on. Years ago I made a deal with my IA not to remove the lower cowl at the annuals to reduce the pain. But still, I have to do it every now and then and it's NOT fast. Not on my F. I recently installed the new Skytec starter after the old one failed. It was 149-12LS, same as the old one and I needed to (partially) remove the baffles, which means removal of the tension rods, drilling old rivets and number of fasteners. I didn't have to modify the baffles, though. Access to couple of bolts was very difficult, other two were not that bad but it took time. I've done it in couple of days (week apart while wafting for starter) and I'd like to think it was less then 4 hours for removal. Installation? Did I say it's PITA? I took me almost full day on the weekend due to access and trying to fit it without removing front baffles. My mechanic had it inspected and did the paperwork. My advice? See if you can help and do owner assist annuals on your plane. Over years your IA should let you do more work, you can learn more and save some money. But mostly, appreciate the time and pain needed to put some things in order. You can start by removing lower cowl, if needed for exhaust inspection or such. Luckily, we don't need to take it of for simple oil changes. Good luck. Edit: Nocking off 4h of your bill seems like a good deal. I would stick to this mechanic/shop. Cheers

I never saw documents showing that 67F has two different Flap extension speeds, all should be 105 mph. You might saw at the 1968 module built in 1967; that should have 125mph. I am quite certain that type certificate defines the speeds that way. The best way you can see the structural difference is to look at IPC for 67 and 68 (available in downloads section) and compare. Good luck

Avweb is reporting on some neighbor of Arlington Airport WA suing owner of C172 for flying and "spreading" lead. He wants lead emissions from aircraft stopped... More details: https://www.avweb.com/aviation-news/airport-neighbour-cites-lead-pollution-in-suit/?MailingID=FLY250120003&utm_campaign=avwebflash&utm_medium=newsletter&oly_enc_id=6133D2714401E4Z This is in my neck of woods and I've been flying occasional approach or two to KAWO. Not sure what's next. It could be anyone. Crazy

Couldn't you just send your old muffler to the shop for a repair or "rebuilt"? That's what I've done with mine exhaust and all parts came "as new" and fit perfectly.

All this talk about speed makes me want to wash and polish my plane....

You can try using the drawings from your POH and scale the dimensions you need...

It's actually about 161 KT true speed (assuming 0deg C) as 150 is indicated speed. I wonder what's the fuel flow but regardless of that, it's very fast.

^^^^^ THIS ^^^^ On your picture you moved the GPS navigators left from the OEM location. are you sure you can support that structurally and if there's a enough clearance? I know J has different panel then my early F but I would check twice. Good luck

I am not looking to buy but would be interesting to see the photo. What year of Mooney would have this on the panel?

Jeff, I'll ask the obvious question: was the cotter-pin split? If it's is properly installed, I can't see how it could fell out of the location. I would say it's more likely dropped by mechanic sometime in the past and hopefully the other one installed.

Don, I might not be clear in my description (I don't have screen grab on a work computer) but if you search for the airport in the top field, you'll get the pop-up window with 4-5 tabs to click like direct to, +FP, Info, app. Plates... Do NOT select that. Please select the airport info above those tabs. it will default into General tab but one of the tabs you can select is A/FD.