Igor_U

AIRTEX interiors are not the best, however the price was good and samples I received were nice enough so i ordered carpet kit 5-6 years ago. It's still looking good and I'm pleased with it. One thing to point out is that is (probably) 10lb lighter then the old wool carpet I had for years. I always wondered if the old one was really so heavy or just collected all the dirt and sand in it.

Years ago I bumped into the owner who had and F 2 serial numbers higher then mine. At the time wo both drove a black SAAB.

Because they can? Seems like a good price regardless. I was paying 50 for a portable bottle at KPAE.

Eric, I always wondered about this even years ago. Year was 1995ish and a car show on a TV tested Mitsubishi Eclipse turbo that year ago I considered buying; bought a Ford Probe GT, also with ABS. Anyway, they demonstrated the ABS capabilities and driver was Emerson Fittipaldi. Test was not braking in line but with changing lanes, in a wet. ABS won!! It was pretty impressive, IIRC and it wasn't advertisement for the car. No idea how my car would compare but I liked it better anyway. Some years later I was telling this to a friend racer who thought for S. Barber and J. Bell and he was somewhat skeptical. He was saying they demonstrated regularly that drivers could outperform ABS but then they were not all equal anyway. I always loved Emmo form his McLaren days and in my book if he couldn't outperform ABS, I certainly couldn't.

Congratulations! I have 14M and our planes must rub shoulders at the factory before sold. Only 10 numbers apart but somehow my plane received airworthiness certificate two weeks earlier. Good luck with your purchase. you will enjoy it.

Nahh, in my book that means "last call far alcohol".

This looks like a Hartzell spinner. IIRC two cracks are allowed if are stopped drilled or end in a screw hole. years ago I had no problem pass inspection by a Prop shop A until third crack appeared. Recently someone posted a link or two about shop repairing cracks by welding. Do a search and you should be able to find it. Good luck.

Of course they could, most of STC listing M20 also list M22. But fact they did not, and very low total time on all the M22s I've seen on internet tells you they were not flown a lot even as new. Must have number of maintenance and reliability issues like Alfa Romeo of the same vintage.

no picture but Univar is listing it for $40.79 https://www.univair.com/mooney-m-10/parts/600315-005-m-10-duct/ there are other dash numbers as well...

So it looks like M20K has a larger prop clearance then M20F (9.5"). Who knew?

I had a multiple leaks in the outboard bay of my left fuel tank and Greg and his team patched it successfully this spring. I could pick up my plane within a week and IRC, bill was less then $1500, probably with some fuel. Highly recommended.

oh, yes they are. Thanks.

Interesting, No idea about M20J but my '67 F has threaded rods to hold the baffles. when installing the engine, I bought new threaded rods at Tacoma Screws and cut to the size. The old ones were quite warn. Do you have a picture of the springs for M20J?

I believe on the picture attached is the under panel light for the Fuel selector.

Wasn't there another company STC to install 201 windshield mod? As for 201 side windows: this was done with no STC. IIRC, there's actually very late M20F model (1976?) that has this done in a factory. This was done with no stiffeners (angles) on top of the window that M20J has. We modified mine with stiffeners (bought from Mooney) and new interior trim from LASAR. My IA filed the 337. I think we had a letter from factory engineering stating that middle window sheet metal removed is not structural so my IA was comfortable signing that. I have all three mods on my plane and and like windshield the best; it gives spacious feeling compared to original windshield. There's obviously speed gain as well. Oil cooler relocation supposing helps with oil temps and shortens the oil hoses. You could add second landing light to that space. Good luck.

Rich, I also have a SureFly however my wiring is routed similarly as you describe. It replaces magneto and it should be connected to the box. Spiral wrap would be a good thing.

Ross, It does spin with the normal speed. In the instance when it doesn't spin the engine at all, it seems solenoid is stuck in a FWD position. It will return (aft) if I move the prop.

Airplane is '67F (IO360-A1A) with LASAR cowl closure and starter is Lycoming p/n 31A22104 which should be SKY-TEC 149-12LS. Attached is the old picture. In our recent trip to CA, it failed to engage once or twice (just a relay clunk with no spinning) but would eventually spin the engine. it happened again at home and I thought it was a battery. Being 9-10 years old, I chickened out and got a new Concord. of course, same issue so, I decided to investigate. Connection to both relays are good (relays relatively new) and looked at the starter after it refused to spin again. It's hard to see but it seems that the part (gear on the shaft?) that red arrow point so doesn't retract on aft on the shaft and is sticking. As soon I I move the prop (on tooth), it retracts and starter is ready to spin. Is lubricating this worth it or replacement is imminent? Would silicon spray or LPT2 help? What would you recommend as a replacement? I don't want to modify the baffles (all original) or experience fitment problems, including cable reach. SkyTec guide recommends 149-NL but I have (permanent magnet) LS; what is the difference to 149-12LS? It seems LS is lighter (7.8lb vs. 9.8lb) but that is not that important in my case. Reliability is what I am primarily interested in. What about B&C BC315-100-2 Starter? Would that fit with no modifications? With recent Hartzell price increase, B&C price is better comparing to Skytec, specially NL. Thanks in advance.

Why didn't you say so? On my way. I'll see you this evening.

The ultimate SUV: DHC-2 Beaver on amphibious floats.

您周圍有 40:1 齒輪組嗎

Ross, It's been more then 15y how I worked on it when refinishing the interior panels so I can't be sure. I remember being gray, assembled of two halves but would need to have a look to be sure. I though that Valve Assy shown below is only metals piece. I should really call LASAR and see if this is still available for a spare. List price is $33 and I can easily see hours of labor in this sheet metal marvel.

The only way to increase the amount of air to defrost is to close the air at the footwell tubes and close the vent in the middle effectively forcing air towards the windshield.

The vent you are referring to is the part 26 on the picture. IPL says it's first introduced on 1967 and it is working very well on my M20F. Having said that, the Louver assy (inside the part 34) does have an air leak and sometimes opens on it's own since the handle that opens it does not have enough friction. Vent is plastic and had some cracks I needed to repair when I bought my plane but 19 years later repairs are holding well.

Not always... Few years ago I worked for the company that has a couple of wide body hangars at KMWH. They had few contract workers doing something in a newest hangar. system was already tested few months ago (apparently a requirement) and there was B747 Supertanker in it for some maintenance. Don't remember how but contract crew triggered the system and there was few feet of retardant (I believe CO2 based) on the hangar floor. One of engineering who was present for the test knew where to stop it. I believe he cut the power. No damage to the plane and only a minor cleanup was needed. I didn't get any pictures of the event, though.