marky_24

What's in your panel? I use the Carenado M20J and it has a basic panel with a 530, that might be close enough to what you have. It's about 65-70% of what the real plane is like, but the pitch is very sensitive. But after lots of adjusting to the settings and after modifications to my CH yoke it's a lot better. https://davenunez.wordpress.com/2011/03/12/modding-the-ch-products-flight-yoke/ You can also edit the .CFG to change the HP for a C model and you can change the empty and gross weight to match yours. If you really want your panel you can spend some money on this program. http://www.fspanelstudio.com For the live ATC I use VATSIM, it's free. https://www.vatsim.net And for your Foreflight. http://www.flightsimgps.com

Looks like the Western Sky Aviation Warbird Museum

Hi Gabe, I have a J ,but I'm down in the good part of the state KSGU. If you ever make it down here to soak in some sun, I would be glad to take you up. As for N.A. vs turbo, I have never had to scrub a flight due to performance. Most runways around here are long. During the summer you just have to plan on being wheels up early in the morning. I have taken off at near gross with an 8000 da @5500', no problem. Just have a good plan for obstacle clearance.

The flap indicator on my 78 J Decided to stop working. I was able to remove everything from the front with out having to take apart the center console. I started with removing the kick panel on the copilots side. Then I removed the 4 screws from the indicator panel. The glass is separate from the main part with the writing on it. If you put both indicators to the bottom, you can reach around the back with one hand and hold the indacator and use your other hand to slide the plastic up and tilt it sideways and pull it out then you can do the same for the main indicator being careful of the plastic indicators. In my case the plastic indicator was fine It just popped off the wire, more on that later. I used 5 minute 2 part epoxy to glue the indicator back on to the wire it rides up and down on. And then I put it all back together. After it was put back together I noticed It was showing takeoff flap when fully retracted. Doh! Crap I thought I did something wrong so i took it back apart, everything look fine. So I thought me and the hangar fairies would pull the belly panel below the flap motor and hope there was an adjustment. Low and behold there was! And it turned out that it was the cause of my woes from the beginning. The way the wire is held on to the flap actuator is a bit odd. There is a bolt through the actuator with a nut on the other side. Then a washer then a hole in the bolt that the wire is passed through. Then you LOOSEN the nut so it pushes against the washer and wire. Apparently it wasn't tight enough and when it cooled down this year it caused enough resistance in the cable to slowly push the wire farther back each time the flaps were raised until it was so far out of adjustment that when the flaps where lowered it pulled the wire out of the plastic indicator. So I squirted some cleaner up the cable and worked it back and forth a bunch then shot some lube up the cable worked it again, adjusted the cable till the indicator lined up and put it back together. And all is well with the Mooney!

I Can't make the meet up,but maybe I'll see you at KSGU for the altitude chamber. I'm signed up for 1:15 on Saturday

It's a little spendy, but then again it's aviation. https://www.jpinstruments.com/shop/jpi-usb-download-box/

Count me in, only 45 min flight so how can I say no?

Wouldn't it be easy enough to collect some oil out of the separator and send it in for analysis?

Switch is installed, but the fit was very loose. I am thinking its more of a material problem, rather than a design. I will interested to hear how helitim's new ones fit. I think they plastic may have to much give in it, but I stuck a little duct tape in all the right places, and boom fits like a glove. Its a bit of work to get it looking good but over all I'M happy for with the results for $6.

I was expecting them to be glossy when i received mine, but they are very rough and almost like packing peanuts. So i sanded them with 400 grit and went to the store and got clear labels for my printer and printed the label, then I clear coated the switch, I'm going out to put it on tomorrow. The font was the closest i could find, and its "duru sans" 8 size. I will post more pictures when i get back. I checked them with my digital caliper, and they are with in 100TH" to the original, so i hope they fit.

Doh! Just ordered 2 last week, let me know how the new one fit.

I live a scant 120 miles away in St George, but my work schedule isn't very flyin friendly. IE I work over the weekends on night shift. But you can fly to BCE and have the shuttle from ruby's inn come and get you. It's beautiful scenery and good food.

The way the preliminary reads, it sounds more like a botched go around than wake turbulence flipping the plane.

http://rgl.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgstc.nsf/0/538928234142F58785256CC200015E39?OpenDocument&Highlight=sa2445ce There is something to start with.

I use https://www.savvyanalysis.com/homeinstead, its a much cleaner UI. And you can access it from mobile phones if you want to go look at something later.

If your goal is just to shine the paint, not remove orange peel or runs, then color sanding is way overkill. You would be better off with series of waffle pads and rubbing compound and polish. If you have never done it before, seek some local help before trying it because you can burn your paint or polish the paint off of high spots. http://www.autogeek.net/lake-country-waffle-pro-pads.html http://www.autogeek.net/mothers-rubbing-compound.html

There is a bit of info out there http://mooneyspace.com/topic/13619-mooney-m10/

I think the 252 is the sweet spot in the Mooney line up.

Mooney put this up on their facebook today. I love it!

Can anyone find pictures of the full scale model of the M10J?

Can't you just download the charts in .pdf files and use any .pdf reader on your phone? https://www.fltplan.com/AwMainToApproachPlates.exe?CRN10=1&CARRYUNAME=PILOT&MODE=SEARCH&end=end

And if you really want to you can edit the aircraft.cfg to 310hp it's pretty easy

In my case the plane had just had a prebuy done on it, all cylinders 74 and above. Fast forward 14 hours later and I was getting a lose of power on take off roll. I aborted the take off and went back to the runup area and did a mag check, it all checked out. Take off #2 same thing, this time I did a high rpm lean run up thinking there was a piece of lead causing my issues. Finally #3 everything was fine off we went. I was doing my check out with a CFI, flight went great until on the way back, 3 miles out I get the lose of power when I pull the throttle back. Just long enough to make my heart skip a beat. Didnt do it again until on down wind. Looked over and #3 was low cht and no egt, again it goes away. We land and taxi to the hangar and shut down. He signs me off blah blah blah, I hop in the plane to go fuel it. I had the hardest time starting the thing, and when it did fire and was rough as all hell, #3 no cht, no egt. Shut it down and pulled the cowl and #3 top plug hoping it was just a fouled plug..... nope little aluminum shavings everywhere, called the mechanic over and stuck the borescope in and saw the valve seat had fallen down and was blocking the exhaust valve open.

Not to scare you but that's the exact symptoms my 201 had right before the #3 exhaust valve seat dropped out of the head. It put enough metal particles in the oil that we would have had to do a teardown to clean it all up, so we did a rebuild. $32000 later we were flying again. Bust out a borescope and check the valve and valve seat really good before you go back up.

Look like a roller bearing to me, but I have no idea if there is a roller bearing like that in a Mooney. http://www.smith-renaud.com/Holo-Rol_Bearings.html