N601RX

We purchased a 150 and both got our license in it. A decent one can be had for around $15000. My brother and I both got our license in it and sold it for what we had in it. We used a free lance instructor who charged $25hr. The 150 is cheap to operate and easy to get insurance on. I think my license cost me around $1800 a few years ago.

It looks like it is a 7.5 watt setup and the one Gary mentioned is 30 watt

Good to know. I had saw your original post and had been interested. I only have wingtip recognition lights no stobes on the tips. I had been looking at the LED ones, but $1200 was a little steep.

Gary, Did you see these flashing? How bright is the flash compared to a strobe? I've saw a video on their website and they didn't seem very bright, but it wasn't dark either so it was kind of hard to tell. Mike

I've been very happy with the 830 I purchased 2 years ago. I have not had any problems with it. I've e-mailed their tech support 4 or 5 times with questions and they were either answered the same day or the next day. 2 year ago it seemed like the best choice for me, If buying it today I would look really hard at the CRG-30 simply because it is Primary for many of the gauges.

To rule out the antenna/coax just swap the com coax from the 430 to the 155.

Try recycling it after the GPS is up and running. Although I have the 830 sometimes I will cycle power just to force it to start a new data file. I'll usually do this if I'm doing some playing around and want to make it easy to find that particular spot in the data.

The problem may be JPI's file format then. They don't store the complete number. In order to save space they only save the change from one data point to the next. For example if an egt 80deg at startup and at the next sample it is at 82 they would store a +2 in the data file which would only need a few bits of space. If their doing the same thing with GPS coordinates and the 1st one is off, then all the others will be off by the same amount. One thing you could try is to turn the JPI off and back on after the GPS is up and running and had acquired its position.

Check the data format. There is hr:minutes:seconds and hr: minutes: Decimal. If it is not the same on both, it will create the offset you are seeing.

I just looked and they have took the page that has the updates down. I had a old link to it, but the only version for download is 3.35 which is pretty old. The original link you provided says call for a RMA to return your unit for a update, so my guess is that they are going to start charging for them. I will e-mail them tomorrow and ask where the update page went to. Might better hold on to any update files we have.

What is the current version of firmware? I don't remember the exact version, but I was thinking I put 3.41 on several months ago. I have not checked to see if I'm logging data. It seems like they release new firmware at least once a month.

I went this route last year. My main reasoning was that I needed something cheap to drive the autopilot with and didn't want to spend 10K to get it. I also have the kns 80 and local airports with an ILS. If you want the 89B to be ifr certified, it will have to have an external annunciator, CDI, be connected to your encoder, have a custom flight manual supplement and be installed on a 337. I scrounged around and found all the used parts I needed for about 1K. I did all the work myself, so to me the 1K was justified. I'll deal with 2020 when it gets here. There will be more choices in 7 years. There are no guarantees that a 430 will even be repairable in 7 years.

I've been refilling small oxygen and CO2 cylinders for my welder and torch for the last 20 years with no problems. Be careful if doing this, there have been people killed with oxygen tanks. The hose has to be clean, no oil at all. Keep it stored in a clean bag. I also place the cylinder being filled in a can of water. This will keep it cool, and if something did go wrong contain the mess somewhat. You will see most SCUBA and welding supply shops doing this as well.

The kx 165 will cost a little more than a few hundred, but If you take your time and look around you should be able to find one for around 1K. It seems like I remember Scott may have had one for sale a while back. There are also online avionics shops that offer exchanges. They will send you a working overhauled unit and your send them your non working unit back in as an exchange.

I've had a controller refuse to cancel flight following before. This has happened twice and was a military controller both times. I was in an area that I was not required to talk to anyone, but has heavy military flight training. I assumed he knew about traffic ahead that I didn't and I did not argue about it.

Back to the original posters comment of trying to get his com 2 repaired and a couple of failed attempts. I would assume he probably has a ky something from the 80's or 90's. If so a working replacement can usually be found on ebay for a few hundred $$$ and just plugged into the tray by the owner without getting a avionics shop involved.

Most people have been able to get IO360's to run LOP without buying Gami's. A good cleaning and moving them around works most of the time. If this doesn't work, then buy them as they will pay for their self very quickly.

The old ones use a cam and adjustable bolt, Sometime in the middle 60's they started using ecentric bushing. You can also check and see if you need the castor shim and if so this will also move the wheel up in the wheel well further.

I've been using the Ipad 3 and Foreflight and really like it. I think they still have the 30 day free trial. If your wanting a mini, I would consider wait until the mini 2 comes out.

The Brittain autopilot is by for the easiest and cheapest system to keep fixed. Normally a piece of hose or some tape will fix it. Even if the complete system needs overhauling, it is still under 1K.

It can also be ordered from Mcmaster Carr in both spray and small bottle. I would personally replace the switch.

It the front gear is not adjusted correct, the wheel will scrub the front doors at about the point you described.

Plug the line also, with the tear your vac pump is sucking unfiltered air into it.

The C will not work, it has to be a D at the end of the pn.

Probably in less than 3 months and "Logs Show No Damage History"