N601RX

Here is what the copilot brake kit called for. The older models use the tubing shown in item#1 and the later model J, K use what is shown it #5.

A long length of flex hose might make the brake on that side feel softer due to slight expanding when under pressure. Unless you have a 1 pc belly the area the brake lines run through isn't easily accessible. There may be some additional access by removing the rear seat and through the inspection panels under the seat.

I noticed that training wheels are a $75 option.

Try turning other stuff in the plane off such as other radios, transponder, alternator, possibility even one mag at a time. Its most likely either a loose connection on the gps which the avionics shop seems to have done a good job on or outside interference.

When I added copilot brakes I had to form several of the tubes to fit. I ordered the aluminum tubing from Spruce in 6' pices and had to formed and flared to fit. Depending on where the leak is and the condition of rest of the tube it may be possible to cut out the bad inch or so, flare the ends and put a union in the middle.

Solo Wheel was the 1st one I saw out a few years ago. I think it sold for around $1600 when it came out. Battery technology has come a long way. We design radios at work and warranty the D cell non rechargeable battery life for 20 years of short transmissions spaced 15 seconds apart.

Not your typical renter. What are the min times needed to rent and checkout requirements.

There is a K model being parted out in FL. I think it is still on eBay.

I see some have already bid over $800 so they are holding their price very well.

The bondo brand is reddish brown color, but there are other brands that are different colors. Some just refer to them generically as Bondo regardless of the manufacturer. Google lightweight body filler and you will find several manufactures.

It looks like several people are upgrading. There is currently 12 Stratus 2's listed on eBay, but the price is holding up well. Usually there is only one or none listed.

RF interference is usually found by trial and error. There isn't a simple fix all answer. Try moving the antenna or cable.

I saw one of their windshields that they had filled in over the retaining strip. I felt sorry for anyone who ever had to change out the window. It was pretty thick and the rivets were buried under the filler. It would have had to been chiseled off by hand to change the window. Not to mention the repainting.

From the factory that entire area is only aluminum.

It looks like Body Filler. There was a mod shop several years ago that used it to smooth in around the front window.

There used to be a guy on ebay who worked for a NASA contractor and sold expired tubes on ebay for a couple of $ each. I got several tubes from him just use around the house. I've used it on non aviation stuff 4-5 years after it expired and could not tell any difference. There is a blob that has been on the outside of my galvanized hanger door for the last 2 years and I can tell that it has aged some from the very hot metal and sun exposure.

The Brittain altitude hold works reasonably well and is very simple. It doesn't have preselects or coupling, but has a pitch hold mode and altitude hold mode. Its all vac operated with no electrical connections. Mooney installed the mounting brackets on many of the year models so the servo mounting is just a matter of bolting the servo to an existing hole. The plumbing is all color coded, so its just a matter of plugging blue hose onto the port with the blue dot beside it. Its not connected to the static system, it just senses its altitude from what is inside the cabin. Just don't open the window with it on, you will get a very nasty surprise!

Out of curiosity, what is your N#?

0-30 ohms each and both the senders are wired in series (60ohms total) with one being grounded to the airframe and the other one is floating.

Normally you would wrap the wire through them several times then snap it shut. Put them as close to the Jpi box as possible.

Those are wrap around chokes and will help. I've done a lot of EMI testing at work on products we design that have wires going into them. In an isolation room we sweep the noise from a few mhz to 1 ghz usually. I've found that the length of the external wire will usually determine the frequency that the noise causes the problem on. If the wire length is some fractional wavelength of the noise frequency it is very likely to pick it up or in your case possibly broadcast the noise.

We have a very expensive one at work. It's great for seeing a problem area on circuit boards.

Plundering through the wife's stuff should count for something. What would your girls do if you got caught?

$50 avionics pin extractor or $.01 Bobbie pin. Plunder in the wife's cabinet, open it up 90 deg, remove the platic dot and Magic.

One of the exhaust websites has some information about both options. I don't remember which it said provided the most heat.