N201MKTurbo

You can see there are shorter pushrods. There is a -33. It isn't specified for that engine, but it will work. SI1060U20Rods.pdf

And a can of Lycoming grey paint costs $15. If you are going to replace the pushrod tube, at least paint it to match.

The part numbers are stamped in the side of the pushrods.

It would be good to know the part numbers of the pushrods in the engine.

Why are all the push rod tubes back on the engine? If he removed the plungers and cleaned them, he would need to remove them all. It seems silly to put them all back in if you were still fitting push rods. Plus, the theory that if the clearance was too small it will wear the rockers is crazy. If they are too tight, the valves will not close and you will lose compression and maybe burn valves. It won’t hurt the rockers. The normal operation of the lifters is to have zero valve lash. I think there is a better case for a failed plunger that wasn’t taking up the valve lash and hammering the rockers. Then there is the bent push rod tube. I have only seen that when a valve gets stuck, and it bends the pushrod. He said that some of the rockers were warn where the shaft goes through. The bushings are replaceable. They only cost about $10 each. Yet he bought eight new $250 rockers.

No fire and no fuel stains on the asphalt with the wing tore off by the pole.

Here is the procedure for checking the dry valve clearance while replacing a cylinder. It is what needs to be done in your case. c. Removal of Hydraulic Tappet Sockets and Plunger Assemblies – It will be necessary to remove and bleed the hydraulic tappet plunger assembly so that dry tappet clearance can be checked when the cylinder assembly is reinstalled. This is accomplished in the following manner: (1) Remove the hydraulic tappet push rod socket by inserting the forefinger into the concave end of the socket and withdrawing. If the socket cannot be removed in this manner, it may be removed by grasping the edge of the socket with a pair of needle nose pliers. However, care must be exercised to avoid scratching the socket. (2) To remove the hydraulic tappet plunger assembly, use the special Lycoming service tool. In the event the tool is not available, the hydraulic tappet plunger assembly may be removed by a hook in the end of a short piece of lockwire, inserting the wire so that the hook engages the spring of the plunger assembly. Draw the plunger assembly out of the tappet body by gently pulling the wire. CAUTION NEVER USE A MAGNET TO REMOVE HYDRAULIC PLUNGER ASSEMBLIES FROM THE CRANKCASE. THIS CAN CAUSE THE CHECK BALL TO REMAIN OFF ITS SEAT, RENDERING THE UNIT INOPERATIVE

It looks cool as hell, but it is a lousy IPad case.

The rockers seem crazy. I would send them out for overhaul. Aircraft Speciality Services reconditions rockers. They charge about $25 each. If they cannot be refurbished, they will find a rebuildable used rocker.

Looks like these guys will make a key for $22 https://aircraftsecurity.com

Go to the auto parts store and find some nice rubber hose that will fit over the vent tight enough so it doesn't fall off. Get some RBF keychains from a pilot shop. Cut off about 4" of hose and poke a hole in the hose and thread the keychain loop through the hole. The ring in the hose will still let the tank breath a bit, but will stop any mud daubers from getting to the tank. https://www.amazon.com/Rotary13B1-PREMIUM-QUALITY-REMOVE-BEFORE/dp/B0CCT22M6Y https://www.amazon.com/Ucreative-Temperature-Silicone-Vacuum-Tubing/dp/B089LMS3Y7

Yep. And 5 ways that will pump lots of oil out of the turbo because it will block the scavenger pump.

When we design a system we try to make things poka yoke. A Japanese term for mistake proofing. We try to make electrical connectors so they cannot be plugged into the wrong place, and/or if they are plugged in wrong, they don't do anything bad. These check valves are the best example of not being poka yoke I've ever seen. You can swap the feed and return valves and you can put them in backwards. There are 8 different ways to put these valves in, and only one is correct.

That's not a lot of variation, but it is odd it drops on descent. Your RPMs don't really change. Your oil temp would normally decrease, which should raise your oil pressure. I can't think of any reason for it to drop on descent. Do you reduce your RPMs on descent?

What does your oil pressure read in cruise? If it is only varying a few PSI, I would just raise the oil pressure a little bit.