outermarker

Thanks for the insight Igor. It was so difficult to break the nut free after it was installed back in the early 80’s. You can’t see where the nut is, your hand almost won’t fit and the angle is not accommodating for removal. But I did get both servos out with each taking more than two hours to basically remove one nut. Once again I’m disappointed at what I found. So, before they go back in, I have a few questions that I hope will help others. 1. Where can I find A-6 Corbin clamps? I have search and searched without success. 2. Where can I find the tool made for this type of small Corbin clamp? 3. The brass nut and nylon insert that makes the seal/connection to the poly hose? There is no way, I mean no way I would reuse these items and take a chance of a leak after having gone through what it takes to remove an aileron servo. Albert

I am currently tracking down vacuum leaks and I’m surprised at what I found with both rudder servos. So, ailerons next. For those that already have, how do you get the aileron servo out? I read the procedure, but there has to be a way to remove the servo without drilling out rivets and then replacing them on the install side. Thanks! albert

Over the weekend, I thought about that question and agree, a turn in either direction and the PC system turns opposite in an attempt to correct and put you back on a straight line. I do have an issue with the system I have. I was an issue from before I owned the airplane. Now that I am working through the bugs, the PC system is next up. I'd like to know if there is anyone who really knows the system that I could call.

I have a question about a statement on this thread. When making a taxi test why would the yoke show a turn in the opposite direction from the ground turn? What if the yoke moves in the same direction as the rudder turn in both directions? What has failed or what vacuum line is crossed? At least the vacuum system is working without leaks! The first thing I would do is test the unit on the ground during taxi. The yoke should turn in the opposite direction of a ground turn in either direction. If turns in each direction yield the same results, then the PC is functioning. If it's only working when turning left, then you know why it's banking right in the air and need to begin trouble shooting.

Has anyone had an issue with the hole size where the grimes light once was and the sky beacon? The hole seems to be too large. Thanks albert

My agent asked for updated times in early April so he could shop around. My policy is due in two weeks and I haven't heard from him with a quote yet. Is he playing a game here and waiting until the 11th hour so I don't have to shop around? Or, do I shop around on my own? Is this whole insurance thing just rigged against me because once the N number is listed all agents charge the same or declines to provide a quote? Feeling a bit stressed because I also fly a Luscombe and the cost of insuring two airplanes starts to hurt. I'm using Leading Edge Insurance out of Colorado Springs. It was suggested I use an insurance company called Elevon last year. Anybody know of them? albert

GREAT! Since you are now the unofficial resident expert, do I fly to you or do you make house calls? Better yet....did you make a video of all the steps? albert

It seems that there are two separate issues being blending here. 1. There is the aircraft jacking procedure, Mooney SI M20-114. 2. The groups "common sense" procedure to stabilizing the aircraft AFTER it has been lifted. As someone who wants to acquire the tools to lift and stabilize my aircraft, this thread has been a good read. I’d like to see more photos and links to where I can buy the things I need to buy. I’ll find a welder for what needs to be welded. Thanks!

@ Sabremech, thanks for the link. Those are for rigging the landing gear pre-load, correct? I was looking for what was used to change out the landing gear disks. The photos in the above links show one persons method. I suppose I need to back up a few steps and make/buy what is needed to safely jack up the airplane (I knew I should have taken a welding class in HS!).

What do the compression tools look like? I should start thinking about a change.

I put these on a few months ago as I began planning for OSH knowing it's going to rain. It rained while I was there, not once, but twice. Everything in my tent was soaked, both times. I was a bit worried about water getting into fuel tanks. I was delighted when I took a fuel sample not to see even one drop of water in either tank. I even rocked the airplane a little and then took another fuel sample....nothing! Thanks so much for removing the worry!

Ok, I'm an old fart...what is "smooth"?

I soloed in N5261B back in 1976. My dad bought it around 1961. It was a 1957 M20, 150hp Lyc.

Once the new O-rings are on, the Mooney service manual says to check the seal by applying no more than 0.5 lb of pressure at the fuel vent and use soapy water around the cap checking for bubbles. So, what has been used to apply pressure?

I still have a AccuTrak and AccuFlite system I'd like to keep working.

Well, a 29" inseam is all the length I got with stubby lil' arms.......but also being a bit on the thick side limits one trying to bend over and reach downward in a time of excitement. It might be easier in a newer Mooney, don't know, never flew one, I just know if I put an iPad mini on the yoke, it might as well be on my belly.

Rudder extensions? Yep, I'd like that...can you give a feller a point in the right direction to them?

Brittain Industries is out of business?

I don't know about you, I'm a short legged fella who needs the seat almost full forward to reach the rudder pedals, but if I am in that situation, experiencing an engine loss or fire that low to the ground, I know I wouldn't be able to reach the fuel valve in a timely manner. Ride through the scenario with me... 1. I'd have to slide the seat back rapidly, which would cause me to balloon up from pulling the yoke back as the seat slams into the aft seat stop and the stall horn sounds in protest. 2. Bend down and try to or three times before I got the valve turned off. 3. Probably get vertigo when I lifted my head up. 4. Try to slide the seat forward so I could reach the rudder pedals again which would most likely cause me push the yoke fore and aft several times as I oscillate through the air trying to scoot the seat into position if I hadn't already buried the nose in the ground. 5. How much altitude do I have before the failure? I might stand a better chance just dropping her in and sliding her in on the belly then running like hell away if it is a fire. That I could do pretty quickly and smoothly.

Jeff at Fly America at DKB is very good, very good.

I learned to fly in a 1957 M20, N5261B.

I was informed that I need to have my ASI rebuilt and the cost will be around $350. At this point what options are there, rebuild, buy new or upgrade? I have to also consider the wing-leveler and autopilot(Brittain). Suggestions? It will go on a 65' E. thanks!

A 65' E and the oil lines going to/from the oil cooler.

When replacing the oil lines how you get to the middle two Adel clamps which hold the oil lines to the firewall? Is there a special Phillips head screwdriver out there? I can't even see the nuts if I was able to get to the screws. Putting all the clamps back on seems impossible to do without removing the engine. Advice? The oil lines are dated but not an issue......yet. I was replacing the defroster hoses as the next project when I took a look at the oil lines and began to wonder, "how do I do that?"

An update to this post: it wasn't a hydraulic line that was leaking. Some fluid was getting past the O-rings on the right brake. I had it repaired and life is once again good.