carusoam

I'm with Parker on this one. I found B of A through AOPA. They have a few people that are very familiar with aircraft. The loans they offer are for 20 years, similar rate to what Jetmech quoted. If you are fortunate, you can pay it off early. I used them because of their experience, title search and overall responsibility. The process was all smooth soaring, no mistakes. Let me know if you can't find them and you need a contact. Best regards, - Anthony -

The only things I can think of that get in the way of retraction are: [1] Airspeed switch - should not trip circuit breaker, Push the overide button and gear would go up [2] Emergency extension out of position - as mentioned above (highly likely) [3] Something physically stuck in the system - check gear doors, control arms for anything that looks out of place or bent. [4] Gear motor. The emergency handle being out of place should give trouble in both directions. Both going up and going down. Good luck... -a-

You can probably find your voltage reading on your portable Garmin (or other). I have the 196 that has this feature, I bet the 696 still has it also along with XM, color, big screen and a few other nice things.... -a-

I know in my 1965 M20C, that navigation by compass required knowing more than ANDS and OSUN. I falsely replaced the first compass because it appeared to stick during turns, then it would swing wildly to catch up. The new compass did the same thing. I believe each time N tried to pass in front of the tube, it would hang until it overpowered the tube's attraction. This was during instrument training for "worst case" no gyro approaches. It seems kind of silly to hang a compass on a big steel tube. Maybe Al didn't think it was that critical....? Best regards, -a-

Philip, Your pic is clearly visible. With the photo of someone else's system completely removed, we can get a better idea of what you are dealing with.... According to the description, all of the devices are part of the BX system I believe Piloto is saying cooling air on the unit is beneficial, not so much directly on the display. -a-

Wingtip 1, fence 0 .....so there. -a-

There are at least two other threads on generator and zeftronics replacement. Either way, the battery should last long enough to keep the electronics alive. Seems like there is a significant other drain, or the battery is not holding much capacity. As for hand propping 180 hp motors. Has anyone done this succesfully? I tried twice, then chickened out....... That's alot of power, and a strong compression to overcome. Best regards, -a-

LL I don't think you will go wrong with either brand. May I suggest: Continue to refine your mission. Pick a few examples, run the comparisons. Enjoy the search. Oshkosh is coming up soon. Both brands will have "caravans" in the camping area. You can find many to look at with enthusiastic owners to speak with. When you are ready to buy, find the threads on pre-purchase inspections and purchase agreements for your financial protection.... My family of four has been in a Mooney for a little over 10 years. The M20C is a bit small for people with legs. The J is spacious. The R came from the factory with a 6 cylinder engine and extra space. We started with a C and found an R while looking for a J. We looked at everything including twins, modified mooneys and Cirrus, but did not seriously consider anything other than Mooney since we had a very good M20C experience. Best regards, -a-

Feel free to share your comparisons, I looked up controller for A36. They are similar to Mooney, everything from dirt cheap / run out to astronomical / brand new.... I think there are fewer A36 under 150K than there are over, similar with M,R and S..... Price seems to be a compromise of engine TT, airframe TT / age, Instrumentation. Enjoy the search. Best regards, - anthony -

I hear 10,000 trees sying in relief....the age of paper is coming to an end at a faster rate than ever before.... Great photos Mitch!

BENDIX BX-2000 System including; Dual Nav/Com with Dual indicators and G/S, R/NAV with programmer, Dual DMEs w/remote head and Nav Switching, ADF, Transponder Mode C, Encoding Altimeter, Audio Panel w/ Marker Beacon, and Built in Intercom. I was not familiar, so I did some searching. Maybe some additional insight can be found by sharing the attached info... Is this what you have? It looks like an early version of a Garmin 430 (sorry PK). Probably from the time when Gary and Min actually worked at Bendix.... Hope this helps, Best regards, - a -

If it fits in a J, than surely and M,R, or S is slightly larger in the back seat legroom and baggage area. Overall not much additional useful load though. In case you want to look up additional information: M20M - Bravo (turbo) M20R - Ovation M20S - Eagle M20TN - Acclaim (turbo) If you have the resources for an A36 and its operation, you are most likely open to any of these aircraft. For my M20R, People who fly are eager to jump in the back. People who don't fly are confused by only one door on the airplane.... If you want to be the fastest / highest in your neighborhood consider the turbo versions. For easy shopping comparisons, I often check the www.allamericanaircraft.com website.... http://www.controller.com/list/list.aspx?ETID=1&setype=1&pcid=17527&dlr=1 -a-

I believe the oem for the compass you are looking for is Airpath. In the original application, the housing was metal (aluminum?). Today they are made of plastic. I replaced my old compass with a new one. When installing it, I over tightened and broke the plastic housing. A quick phone call to Airpath and a few bucks later, the new housing showed up in the mail... http://www.airpathcompass.com/images/Airpath-Spareparts-2.jpg The catalog houses only list a few of the most common parts. I think a phone call is still required to get the housing. I also noticed that the angle of the bracket is not quite the same as the angle of the tube it is mounted in....? Best regards, -a- What I remember most about the compass. The screws were brass, and too long. They were never fully tightened again (tight screws=lots of vibration) and every now and then one of the brass nuts would fall down and be gently caught by the boot on the J-Bar. One day the boot was loose, the nut fell and immediately dissappeared below the floor to only be found at the next annual when the belly skins were removed. I am sure there is a better way....

Jack, Interesting find. Thanks for the follow-up. Putting these things on the yoke is convenient, but not always the best idea. Best regards, -a-

Philip, From your description, it sounds like the manifold pressure is calibrated in psi in place of "hg. A standard atmosphere of pressure is 29.92"hg or 14.7psi. The number 14.9 that you are using sounds like you are not happy with. Would 14.7 work better? (29.92 inHg, 14.696 PSI, 1013.25 millibars) "A column of air one square inch in cross-section, measured from sea level to the top of the atmosphere, would weigh approximately 14.7 lbf (65 N)." http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Atmospheric_pressure Best regards, -a-

Steve, Welcome to the board. Very nice upgrades and interesting thought process of what to keep and where to put things. You have a very efficient layout with vac and electronic back-up, with side by side comparison. Best regards, - anthony -

Went flying today.... 80deg F outside, oil temp indicator was at 190deg F. Temperature reading is from the original stock oil temp gauge. Flight was a local out and back at 3,000 feet or less. 94 M20R Ovation. Continental IO 550 G. Three blade prop, 2500rpm. Best regards, -a-

The LP folks are pretty good. They make the windows for custom order. It takes only a few days. I would guess a phone call to them with exactly what you want will get you what you expect. In the past, I have sent them an old window for verification. You might consider determining where you want the new vent window to go. Trace it out on the old window and send it in with your order....... Just remember measure twice cut once. Also consider purchasing the drill bit from them for the screw holes. Drilling into the plexiglas is more of having a very pointed drill bit and testing your technique on the old window. You won't need much help for side windows that you can't get from LP. lots of cleaning of old sealant. Best regards, - anthony -

Very modern looking... See AggieMike88 http://www.mooneyspace.com/index.cfm?mainaction=memberdetails&member=2413 He is in the auto recycling business.... -a-

rogerl, Great spread sheet. I loaded me, my friends, camping gear and planned fuel for OSH.... we're a bit heavy but still within limits... The view needed a little modification. Dragged and dropped the graphs a little lower. They had landed on top of a set of data point charts originally. The charts were probably hidden at one point.....? Has anyone worked a spreadsheet for take-off distances... function of (pressure alt, temp, weight, wind, obstacle height, grass, humidity)? Best regards, -a-

Bruce, What is the shop's recommendation? Is it as simple as new, good quality, valve guides + valve alignment? -a-

At the risk of adding to the old wives tales, here goes.... [1] The lead additive in the 100LL is in there for two reasons. Increase octane rating and to lubricate valve stems. [2] This is the hear-say part: The soft metal lead and lead oxides are responsible for the lubrication. They deposit on the surfaces. They will deposit in ROP as much as LOP. If you run really rich, the deposits are lead balls collecting in the lower spark plug of each cyllinder. "molten lead would coat the valves, rings and cylinder walls with a flash coating" http://39olds.com/lubrication.htm [3] Old cars and old planes required the lead lubrication. Modern materials of construction no longer require this in either planes or cars. The octane boost is often still appreciated, but the lead lubrication is not. [4] "Physical compatibility is addressed by the installation of hardened exhaust valves and seats." - Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tetra-ethyl_lead [5] In the case of Bruce's engine....Why only two cyllinders and not all six? Best regards, - anthony -

POH specs for the M20R (other vacuum systems should have near identical requirements???).... Section VII - Systems.... Anunciator Panel 9.0 HI/LO VAC "Designated vacuum range" Low = 4.25 +/- .25 in Hg High = 5.5 +.2 / - 0.0 in Hg below 4.25 - blinking red light above 5.5 - steady red light "in either case, gyros should not be considered relieable during this warning time" There is a reference to "airborne Service Letter no 31" Unfortunately I do not have the reference reference does not help much: http://www.parker.com/literature/Fluid%20Systems%20Division/Original%20Document%20Storage/Service%20Letters/SL-31.pdf

Paul, "Check emergency gear handle" shows up in the before take-off and is often added to the before landing checklist. I think the major reason that it is on the list, is that rear seaters have been known to bump it out of position. Best regards, -a-

Job, As you suspect, the oil is used as a "coolant". Similar to radiator fluid in the car, it is best to keep a higher level, thus allowing things to cool before cycling through the engine again. The hot weather will cause an increase in oil temperature, but it should still stabilize. If it continues to increase while the engine is running steady (check your JPI data) this would warrent serious concern. Serious engine damage can be a cause of overheated oil. Oil analysis should be able to point that out quickly. Bearings going bad can cause things to heat up. They will show tell-tale metal signs. Keep up the vigilence. Flying with full oil, on a cooler day should give comparable JPI data of previous flights. How long does it take to get you oil analysis back? If its only a few days it may be a good idea to wait for it. In the POH (my 76 M20C - Owners Manual): Section 1-5 Oil Capacity (6 QTS MIN for flight)....8 QTS Lycoming 0-360s have been rumored to run on much less. Things are well as long as oil is reaching the oil pump without picking up air. Temperature will rise and oil pressure will fall with less oil in the system. It will run, but it will not run the same. Oil's ability to lubricate is directly linked to its viscosity. As it gets hotter, the viscosity becomes less. If it is burning, such as in a bad bearing, the viscosity will go away. If oil burns, I suspect you will smell it when taking a sample. See what the cost of removing and cleaning the oil cooler would be... Best regards, -a- See previous thread with similar issues: http://www.mooneyspace.com/index.cfm?mainaction=posts&forumid=2&threadid=1051