carusoam

Just got the April Issue of AOPA Pilot. The back cover is an advertisement for Garmin Retrofit glass. Looks like an Eagle or Ovation upgrade. Very similar to, but slightly different than, Docket's new panel. We can say we saw it here first!!! - a -

2nd the recommendation to speak with Mr. Wheat The 65 M20C had the same shortness of information. Bill Wheat gave me recommendations to use the '65 owners manual in combination with a slightly newer vintage POH for performance data. My engine had been updated during overhaul and newer POH was a good fit. See what Bill recommends for you. -anthony-

I have not noticed any trapped moisture. This may be more of an issue for covering horizontal surfaces. Nothing beats being inside. IMHO - If you have to be outside, than a cover is the way to go (keeps out the sunshine and rain). The third option that I have seen (mostly in Texas) is the roof overhead, but still with a cover (see airkraft's avatar). -a-

Quote: JBrown Carusoam: Thanks for the info. Just one little question: Are those EGT's in the 1400s really 50 ROP for y'all? If I run the EGT down in the 1400's I get nice cool cylinders just like you and docket are reporting, but the fuel flow goes up quite a bit. You happen to know what the fuel flow was at during that set?

For excellent input, Talk with Jim Cancil at www.planecover.com East coast style cover (see attached photog). Withstood 50kt winds in its first week of work. I had one for my M20C for 10 years. (at 5 years, you send it back to have the sewing restitched) The cover should extend forward over you avionics access panels and rearward over the ceiling vent and baggage compartment door. I think there was a vent in the cover to correspond with the ceiling vent in my C. Also consider intake plugs, Zipper access door and possibly tail cone cover. There are solutions for every type of antenna, bump and protrusion. If you get the opportunity to speak with Jim, ask him about the specifics of what to cover for your area of the country.

J Brown, The most complete set of data that I have is as follows: (unfortunately, it's not very complete. We may have to keep this thread open a little longer...) Plane: '94 M20R - 280hp IO550G 7,500 msl 23" 2400 rpm 50 ROP EGT Air Temp 10 degrees C Temps: EGT / CHT 1382 / 321 1399 / 335 1423 / 326 1451 / 334 1388 / 361 1411 / 331 Speeds (Ground Speeds) N- 188 W- 176 S- 172 E- 194, average of the four cardinal directions (cancelling wind and errors in calculation) 182.5 knots. This data was collected in November near KSAT. Parker, Great panel upgrade! I would like to borrow a copy of your panel and combine it with JBrown's 310 hp for my M20R and call it --- an Ovation 3. Best regards, - anthony -

Brian, I think the white top over blue bottom is extra special !!! What is the significance of your new N number? or you were just looking for a change? - a -

The ball vent in my M20C was held in place with 4 sheet metal screws. It was easy to remove clean and put back... Well finding the 4 existing holes in the sheet metal (through carpet and insulation) was a PITA. Finding that it was just sheet metal screws (not tinnermans or other exotic fasteners) holding it in place was not very impressive either... I was surprised how well it worked after cleaning. They are so tight, and it only takes a small amount of crud to interfere with their operation. Long story short: Have you tried cleaning in place with lots of fluid? - a -

Quote: kallend But it has a feature called "SET OBS AND HOLD" that is poorly explained in the manual (to the point of not being explained at all) and I can't figure out what it's for (Assistance in flying a hold, maybe). Any ideas? JK

It's probably good to have an extra one in hand. I have found that a small amount of junk (tiny black specks) is enough to drain a tank while you are not looking (one drip at a time). Small particles get stuck in the valve and do not flush out very easily. I have also found that they are easy enough to clean up once removed from the plane. Keep in mind... Since they have the rubber seal, it only takes light torque to have it seal properly back in place. If you over-torque it...., you will easily rip its little head clean off, spout a few rude words, and consult with your mechanic about borrowing an EZ out of the proper size to remove the remaining carcass, and then start over..... -a-

Tail strength... Not only does the tail hold everything in balance while flying, it also holds the tail on the ground during 50 knot winds. Consider inspecting your tail tiedown for it's condition before relying on it to hold everything in place. - a -

I am borrowing this one from Bruce's topic of slow drainage and dying batteries.... OK, Flame suit on.... Last battery I bought was for my M20C. I purchased the Gill 35-S (sealed). Used it with a 50amp 12V generator and modern zenith controller. I enjoyed the lack of acid spilled within the battery compartment. Seamed no different in operation as the normal unsealed version. What battery are you using for your plane and why? Do you get more than 2 years out of your battery, how do you do it? I now have a 2 battery system (M20R). The logs indicate a steady stream of replacements over the years...... Thanks, - Anthony -

Craig, As always, thank you very much for a job well done. You have enabled our community to get together in a way like no other. Best regards, - a -

For comparison, it may be helpful to know - M20R Continental IO550G: From the POH: Best Power = 50deg ROP Best Economy = 50deg LOP This is based on a single EGT and CHT instrument. From Max Power at Sea Level: 27", 2500rpm Best economy 15.3gph Best Power 17.6 Lowest Power 45% power at 20,000: 12.3" - 2300rpm Best economy 8.2 gph Best Power 9.8 gph at 2500 rpm What this indicates - Best thing to do: Balance air flow and injector flow. -a- This engine has the balanced induction (equal length tubes) and nicely balanced injectiors. I also have the JPI 700, so I know my GAMI spread = 0 gph. When leaning it will shut off on you without vibration. Surprisingly smooth. My M20C with the O360, carburetor was unable to even go to LOP. The spread must be huge.

16 Right is an excellent aviation documentary. I think it was Brian T's first attempt at significant commercial work. He must have put everything he had into it. If you have not seen it, It is better than 90% of anything coming out of Hollywood. Grab the kids, significant other and Fire up the home theater for movie night. It's hard to explain why I liked it. I'm guessing the topic was dead center of many of my interests. I had a showing on the big TV in HD (new technology in its day) for my aviaition buds when it was first released. If you see only one movie this year.....Well, you should get out more often... (smiley emoticon) - a -

To identify if it is a week antenna... Try it with the other radios on and the radios off. My old narco radios created so much noise that my Garmin 196 could only pick up a signal with the remote antenna. Even with the remote, A few times it dropped the signal and was unable to come back online until I was on the ground. You can watch the signal strength fade when the Narcos are turned on. Elsewhere on this board is a discussion of radio interference and antennae for the 430/530 that may shed light on your situation. Today, I am using much upgraded King radios. The 196 is relegated to back up duties, but does fine, even with the short stub antenna. Or maybe skip this and just follow Randy and Jolie's advice, it sounds like it needs some service one way or another. - anthony -

CM 7327 - Chicago Miniature 28V .04A twin leads - 95 cents, it supposed to have 4,000 hrs tbmf. 4 machine screws to remove the cover to access the bulbs. http://www.cml-it.com/pdf/2-47.pdf Thanks again Lee.

My nearest class D airport is no longer reporting data. There are at least two airplanes upside down (C152 and tri-pacer). They were tied down, but broke free. See the current Metar below. KTEB (TETERBORO, NJ) SCHEDULED OBSERVATION 14/0051 UTC, WIND FROM 70 DEGREES AT 24 KTS, GUSTING TO 51 KTS, VISIBILITY 4.00 MILES, WEATHER RAIN, MIST, SKY BROKEN 5/8-7/8 COVERAGE AT 1300 FT, BROKEN 5/8-7/8 COVERAGE AT 2200 FT, OVERCAST AT 3800 FT, TEMPERATURE 8C (46 DEG F), DEW POINT 6C (42 DEG F), ALTIMETER SETTING 29.52 INCHES. REMARKS: AO2 PK WND 07051/0043 SLP995 P0004 T00780061 $ At 51 kts things begin to fly on their own... Sorry, wrong forum area....

Easy solution, may require the help of another person (make it a mechanic and you've got it all covered). My 65C had a similar experience. Your flap actuator now needs adjustment. A very small movement is the difference between open and closed (flaps up or down). Check the action of the flap valve on the hydraulic cylinder. Up should release the pressure. Down, should make it build pressure. Total movement is very small and sounds like you are going from closed to more closed.... This is difficult to do without help. If I am not mistaken, keep in mind that the brakes are using the same fluid. (I don't think this is your problem though) If the flaps go down, the air is mostly out of the system. Air in the system will keep the flaps from going down. If you pump several times more than usual and little happens... Keep cycling the flaps up and down, air should disappear quickly. (again probably not your problem) I think 3 pumps pressurized the system and about 4 pumps moved the flaps from full up to full down. (no air) Now that you have moved the position of the bleeder valve.... From the service manual there is a recommendation on how long it should take for the flaps to raise. You would not want the flaps to go up instantaneously during a go around. This "time" is somewhat difficult to set. I used hand pressure on the flaps to get close. Unfortunately, I don't think you will know how good you are until the sheet metal is back on and wind supplies the pressure on the flaps. I did this adjustment with my mechanic during one of my annuals. - anthony -

"Similarly, if running ROP, I would use the first cylinder to have peaked as the baseline as it would also be the hottest. Right?)" - Jeff_S ROP - first cylinder to peak. LOP - last cylinder to peak. When using the JPI 700 in Lean Find mode (LF) make sure that it is using the correct LF mode. There is one for ROP and one for LOP. When starting LF, the unit tells which mode it is in. It is easy enough to switch between the modes. I have the procedure in the plane (or I would have shared it already).

The coolest thing about verniers.... Throttle: when you want to add just a little power on final. You can put in a 1/2 twist and then take it right back out. You can make the smoothest landings ever, under changing conditions. Mixture control: smoothly find peak by twisting at a nice constant rate. (it may take a few rotations). Prop: No value for me, set at 2500 and left there. If I had a digital tach and wanted and exact setting vernier would be the way to go. For major adjustments, they are all push pull like the M20C. (example: Full power for take-off or go around) Verniers: Like GPS, not required, but sure are nice to have.. -a- (Continental 550G, driven to the POH)

Baby seats fit just fine in the E (forward facing of course). They will be about 10 years old before they figure out that they don't have the same leg room in the back of the E that you have in the front. Good luck keeping them from getting too close to anyone's long body (F,G,J,K,M,R etc..)

Thanks Lee, I'll be heading to the airport armed and ready. In my case the bulb is an extra 50 cents for the 24v version. (GE 327)

The double wide stroller is going to have to fold down significantly to fit back there. Have you checked out this thread... http://www.mooneyspace.com/index.cfm?mainaction=posts&forumid=1&threadid=560 Baby gear for mooney owners. Good luck, -a-

Jerry, Nice to see the comparison of complete data sets. Thanks for sharing. It is interesting to see the entire flight (including run-up) as seen by your battery...Zeftronics give a real smooth control. - a -