Seth

John- I've heard you. -Seth

You can also find older handhelds on ebay/craigslist. I have almost purchased a second non nav radio for my car. That way I keep the real backup in the airplane and when I'm at C or B operation airports for checking atis, getting clearence before starting (long taxi to runway usually at those locations). The com radio only in the car is nice for simply tuning into DCA and listening to the planes on the River approach or arriving at my own airport for ATIS (even though I usually just call the number on the way). Twice I have had my older brother take pictures of me during takeoff and landing. I would give him my backup radio and we'd talk on 123.45 as to if it would be a go-around, where the best angle was, etc . . . for most of the flight, he just would monitor the frequency of the field itself. If I lost both my radios or electrics on those flights, I would just land as it was a non-towered airport. However, I admit, it was disconcerting to not have my safety blanket on board for those flights. I picked up an Icom A24 at Oshkosh in 2009. The Icom A23, Sportys, JD100, JD200 and SP200 you can sometimes pickup for less than $100 on ebay. -Seth

Erik- I hope the flight before checking the compressions again fixes at least one or two of them. Sorry to hear that you are having Cylinder problems. As the shop and your A&P state, I'd keep the other three Cylinders as they are indeed seeming strong right now. Some Cylinders do last, others have issues. Break in wise, you do use a lot of fuel during break in. Some will state to break in LOP vs ROP, but I went the ROP way even though it is possible to break in, and evidently cleaner too, using a LOP method - let's not debate this here however. You want to keep temps down by keeping a high mixture while using a high power setting to seat the piston rings. Follow the instructions and do what the A&P and shop tell you to do. Also, you'll get a lot of advice from MooneySpace. I've now broken in a new engine, and then broken in new cylinders during a Top. Both went well - the most important two flights are the first and second hour. It also depends on what type of cylinders you are using, but once oil consumption levels off, that's when the cylinders are broken in. This can range anywhere from a few hours to 25 hours depending on what type fo cylinder. In both cases, mine were broken in probably before 10 hours, but I conservatively kept the mixture rich and higher power for another 10-25 hours. You'll also have to change the oil at sooner cycles. 1st hour - 75-85% power keeping the cylidners as cool as possible using rich mixture. Overfly the field for about 15 minutes to make sure everything is operating smoothly and then fly near the field but in longer laps so you're not turning the entire time at 180+ knots. Land and check for oil leaks. 2nd hour - 75%-85% power and every five minutes vary the power settings. 3-10 hours - 75% or better power settings keeping everything cool Once oil consumption stabalizes, your engine is broken in. I kept running 75% plus power until around 20-25 hours. I also did not try too much manuvering or pattern work - just long legs and cross countries. 0-10 hours = oil change 10-25 hours = oil change 25-55/60 hours = oil change Change the oil every 30-35 hours after that. That's what I do. My former Mooney had oil changes closer to every 50 hours, but I'm trying to be real conservative to the IO-550. Your engine is different along with a tubro, and thus may have different break in instructions. Good luck! -Seth

Mike- Great topic - I find myself in a similar safty ranking as you - second from the top. I know I have an issue with "get-there-itis" and completing the mission, but I've also learned to throw in the towl and often use the go/no go decision wisely. i try to always have an out (even if it means an off aiport landing to avoid flying through really bad weather - which I've never done is but is toward the bottom of the list but a real optio nif needed). I'm still learning to deal with the "get-there-itis" and am considerably better than I used to be. Also, IFR minimums wise - if I have't flown an approach in a while, I'm not going to IFR minimums but to my personal minimums, if it's my home field and I've flown the same approach dozens of times, I may take that to minimums more cofortably. If I've been flying a lot of IFR and a lot of approaches recently, my minimums do indeed lower usually to the published minimums. Always be ready for the missed approach. I do not take off into 0/0 conditions. I do not have a probelm flying through rain and around convective activity, but I do not rely on WX to split cells, I will avoid the storms by a wide berth. Checklists wise - I do use checklists but when you fly your airplane at times you'll run through a flow - bad habbit, I know, hence the reason I picked the second to the top. I have recently moved all my checklist to the ipad I use for charts. I have that plus my paper backups. I use both during the flights. However, I always try to remember to do GUMPS 3 times downwind, base, final, and 3 green over the fence. Even if I'm in a non-retract aircraft just to stay in the habit. There are four instances I was scared when flying - I've learned a lot, but those four instances have taught me the most. -Seth -Seth

When I was looking about a year and half ago, a tug tow bar that fit a Mooney was about $80. This is the least expensive I could find just now on a quick search for $161. That's double - tow bars are going up in price. Maybe e-bay and find a used one? I would say previously cherished, but tow bars are not treated like good used cars. http://store.wagaero.com/product_info.php?products_id=9369 -Seth

Dave- That redline sidewinder looks very cool - how does it do in snow/rain? -Seth

Mine was abandoned in the hanger I took over - it wasn't working and used ot hook up to a 182. So, I figured I'd put it to use. With the F, just like Alex's C, I could just muster up the strength to get it in and out of the hanger. With the Missile, which is just a few hundred pounds more but makes a HUGE difference, I could just get it in my slight includine, but it was a LOT of work. So, i fixed up the EZ 35. If it breaks, I will very much get another tug. -Seth

If it helps, I hava powertow EZ 35 (former version of your power tow) and the long arms with the spring being old didn't like to stay fastented, so I have a bungie cord wrapped around the top of it once I hook it on near the landing gear to give added pressure and keep it connected to the airplane. Low cost, added reliability solution - an no duct tape invovled! -Seth

In the velocity twin, the canard stalls before the wing does, thus the nose lowers and the airspeed gains again. Thus, before the wing stalls during an engine out, the nose will, and the plane will nose over to keep airspeed up. Actually, a quite awesome statically and dynamically stable design. However, I can't comment on the others if the canard stalls before the wing as I'd need to do more research. Probably with the velocity due to the similarity of design, but I don't know about the others. The 182 King Kamati and Kamati are amasing STOL aircraft - google it. -Seth

Stefan- Just so you are aware, most Mooney aircraft do not have co-pilot brakes. It's was an option and often added after the aircraft left the factory by a local mechanic. However, seeing that you have a 1989 bird, I think that's when the AT (though I could be wrong) was being produced, which is the advanced trainer (and M20J with dual brakes and a few other options, but not too fancy as it was meant for a flight school), and they may have been factory co-pilot brakes. I am not familiar enough with the braking system, but the fact that you have co-pilot brakes raised a red flag in my mind that there may be an issue with the install or a fail point somehwere in the interlink setup between pilot and copilot brakes. I'm sure others on the board are more knowledgable and will have a good response for you shortly. I for one have wanted to put co-pilot brakes in but don't want to add to the useful load, add complexity for another fail point, and give the passneger a way to get in the way of flying (even though it would be nice to have the ability for the copilot to apply the brakes). Both my former 1967 F model and current 1983 M20J Missile 300 did not have and do not have co-pilot side brakes. -Seth

Alex- Congrats again on your new bird - can't wait to go flying with you. You know my opinions on tugs, but what I didn't mention is that most owners, just like aircraft, will let you know what they picked is what to go with. Many of the tugs work, and personally I sometimes suffer from paralysis from analysis. The reason I like the powertow is because they do well in wet or bad weather as you just have to push down on them some, and physics wise, more weight equals more friction equals more traction (not quite the equation, but the logic). My old powertow that you saw was the EZ 35 model - there really is not clutch. It runs at a constant speed, and you lift if off the ground to slow down progress when pushing. The reason I use it is it was free and with a little elbow grease and the help of a mechanic, it works again! I purchased the Mooney hookup for it from Powertow and got it working. If it breaks, most likely I'll order a new powertow EZ 40. When I was in Minnesota Tim Lundquist of Strategic Aircraft showed me his EZ 40 and the improvements are substantial as there is a clutch and it just is much more nimble and easier to use. I've never used a two wheel model, but probably would like that too. Last suggestion is what we talked about which is to get an old tractor/lawnmower off craigslist for $100-$350 and then remove the broken cutting deck (why it's being sold cheap) and bolt an attachment point on. Get a towbar, and boom, you have your own mini tug. I think Brett (bnicolette) used to have a similar tug setup - Brett - can you post a pic? If anyone else has this sort of tug/tractor/riding mower setup, please do post. Towbar- The towbar that came with the Missile is adjustable (it expands). The reason we had the short towbar is because it fits in our baggage compartments. The long tow bar is good for steering, but is hard to leverage for pushing. I've thought about getting a long one just for the hanger and leaving the adjustable one in the airplane for trips. Good luck! -Seth

To the DANGER ZONE! On Monday night I watched TOP GUN in 3D at/on an IMAX movie theater and not on VHS, DVD, Blue Ray, etc . . . I was five years old when Top Gun was released to the world. So although I've seen it a few hundred times, I finally saw it on the big screen! Tonight is the last night you can see it in 3D in the theaters during this limited release back to the big screens, so if you've ever wanted to, have fun! Also, I didn't know, but Jurrassic Park is being re-released as well (similar 3D conversion). That's for later this year (and yes, I caught that in the theaters). Take care, -Seth

It's smart to keep one or two of those in your aircraft. My former 1967 F model had two break while I was away (separate occasions). I learned the first time to carry a spring on board. The second time, I simply supplied the part. -Seth

And by the time I got back from the airport a few minutes ago, the flurries has started.

So that means six more weeks of winter

I unfortunately decided no on the go/no go decision today - the snow should be rolling in between 3 and 4 in western MD and the visibility and snow expected here by 4PM just made me choose to stay on the ground. I actually could have made it today! Enjoy the fly in -Seth

You do a great job with these. -Seth

I'll try to make it!

I touched the master from behind (hoping not to shock myself out) and it seemed to fix the issue. I'll go ahead and try to clean the connection up. Thanks for the advice. -Seth

I owned a 1967 M20F. I purchased it in 2008 pre-crash (market, not airplane) and sold it in 2011 just after purchasing my Missile. It was a 4-10 year hold and ended up selling it in just over three years. I put close to 500 hours on it and sold it for 3000 less than I bought it for. It was in better mechanical shape when I sold it than when I bought it except the higher prop/airframe/engine time. I probably could have made out even or above (not counting maintance and upgrades) but I sold very quickly to a friend of mine through word of mouth vs listing it on TAP/Controller/Barnstormers. I did list it here as well. I bought and sold it in the 50s. Without pictures, and true exact information, we'd have to put a range. My guess is from what you've described is $50,000 to $68,000 depending on engine/prop/airframe time, previous damage, equipment, paint, interior, and all sorts of other aspects regarding it's history. I apologize for the large range, but if you PM the add to me, I won't buy it and give you my honest opinion and what my offer would be along with certain gotchas. -Seth

+1 You are indeed correct. When I flew accross the country in 2010, I landed in Montana for a refuling stop, and I was amazed at the speed on landing and takeoff, and lesser climb. Hot day on a 4000 msl strip. Glad for the long runway as DA had to be in the 7-8000 range.

The Missile is for better or equal speed below 10,000 to 12,000 with higher fuel burn. At altitude, the speed will be less, but you can take advatange of tailwinds (if you have oxygen on board). At the same exact speeds at different altitudes, I'm guessing the 252 is more efficient, though I'd have to check. If I were flying in the mountain often, I'd go with the 252, but where I'm based, I didn't want a turbo yet. So I picked the Missile. Also price wise, the Missile was at the time significantly less than a good 252. Best bank for buck in the turbo mooney world may be the F with the Ray Jay - as long as it's working. A 231 is a good plane as well. The 252 and Encore may have been the most efficient Mooney's made. -Seth

I'd be interested if we want to put together a group buy. I know that was not the purpose of your thread, so just an FYI and good luck finding a place to make the shirst - ton's of places will do it. Probably including Sportys or one of the FBO/super pilot accessory stores that print a lot of shirts anyway and have deals with the manufacturers and have the logs. Take care, -Seth

Honestly, probably better salesmanship by the person talking about the two units. I originally was going to go with the EI but switched to the Horizon. I'll PM you the exact wording, but it did the job for me. Other reasons which were lesser so facts and not real decision makers were: -3 inch vs 2 inch instrument. It just wouldn't look as clean on my already pre-six pack M20F cockpit. You could get a ring for the outer inch to fill the hole in the panel, but the Horizon was the uniform size of the hole. -MAC has last installed the Horizon Unit prior to the Garmin G1000 unit aircraft and was the stanadard equipment for non G1000 equipped aircraft (though I'm not sure if any were built without the G1000 once that was an option). -50/50 split on what differet opinions were of others, but my personal MSC had never had an issue with the Horizon units, and honestly, only a few if any with the EI units. -Having an arc of LEDs for eye placemnet I figured would be a plus, and it probably was, but I didn't notice it to be an issue after a few flights. -Price was a non factor, less than $100 difference at the time if I recall. Both units are fine to use. I would go digital vs analog at this point if your unit needs replacing, as that's when it makes sense to do upgrades. When you'd be putting money into the airplane anyway, and for a little more, you end up with upgraded technology. -Seth

Actually some models start "counting" right away, others at something like 800 RPM, others at a higher RPM so it coincides with the runup prior to takeoff. I forget exactly what the specifics were from the different manufacturers, but I looked it up back in 2011.