Mcstealth

Sorry for the rookie questions. Do the mags turn the same direction as the prop? Evidently it makes a difference with how to wire and time the engine. 0-320, 150hp. Slick Mags.

Argh!! Yesterday, finally, the timing was right to go pick up the plane. I got a ride to the A/P's airport. I got situated, and the A/P comes walking up. He stated all the work I did a few weeks ago only accomplished moving the backfire from the first click of the mag check, to the second click. I stood there calmly, several choice words and phrases going through my mind. I flew her home based on the knowledge the A/P made atleast five round trip flights to and from his work airport and home airport. To review: I discovered that the bottom plugs were all to one mag. I swapped the pilot side plugs, top to bottom. We did a run up, and no backfire happened. I come back 2.5 weeks later to retrieve the plane , the back fire is still there, just now it is on the second click. I remember the A/P stating that the backfire was intermittent My thinking is that i believe the mags are okay with the simple fact that the backfire happens only one one click of the key, not both. Also that the symptoms swapped to the second click. Maybe a bad lead wire or loose electrode in a plug?

Congratulations.

The Honda turbo was unique, that's for sure. It was not something you could race. Top heavy and not sport oriented. The Suzuki was the best looking, IMHO, of the turbos and handled very well. It was a 650cc four cylinder that was underpowered unfortunately. You could race it. Not many were made, or raced for that matter. The GPZ's were by far the most powerful, quickest, and fastest of the turbos. It was a full 750cc and the turbo worked. Had to be careful when cranked over in a corner with the GPZ. Too much right wrist and you could spin up the tire and spit yourself off if the turbo kicked in at the wrong time.

If no one has an answer for you by Tuesday, I am heading out to the airport then and will jump over to Dugosh and ask if they have an answer.

It is owned. Finally, the little piss-ant threeway toggle switch, something that looks like I could have found at Grainger, showed up. The damn hangar is opening again. Now the gears are grinding. Grrrrrrr

Only some of the GPZ 750's were turbos and they were excluded. At the time, anything above 550 was a different class. I raced them all.

My thoughts also. The popping was at the top side of the run up at 1800rpm.

We called it SuperStock GPZ 550's GS 550's Seca's Etc. We could not do anything to the engine other than aftermarket air filters and tires. Curiously, you could use high octane fuel.

I am not sure one way or the other. Time for me to do some research.

I'm such a duffus. I got lazy, didn't do my research, and now will do double work becase of it. I discovered the A/P had one mag configured on all the bottom plugs and vice-versa. This resulted in the crossfiring several of you had mentioned. A little research (Thanks @LANCECASPER) shows me I swapped the wrong side of the engine. I switched 2&4 top to bottom where I should have done 1-3. Back to the hangar tomorrow but atleast it didn't backfire when we tested her.

Yes. Everything has been trapped for two full weeks now. The motor did make noise when the tech's came out. Slightly perturbed but only just, because we probably could have caught the on/off switch problem if we were not so short sited and lacked thoughtfulness. Yucky capacitors, wonky motor, should have told us to keep poking.

They sent the motor off and break to be rebuilt. got the assembly back last Friday. Put it on and it did not work They did some more tracing and found out. The actual switch on and off switch was bad. It is an old style switch that is not found everywhere. But they should be back today to install it. the saga continues.

And I am still slightly unclear. The first click to the "R" position means we are grounding out the right mag and running solely on the left?

Okay. Finally got the A/P cornered and I have pulled the cowl. The left mag has all four of the bottom plugs. The right mag has all the top plugs (obviously).

No longer in business. I did call a company named Schweise. They were very helpful even though it is not one of their doors.

The motor is turning, the door does "move" up, but I am talking millimeters here. We took off the capacitor cover. There are two capacitors and one is rusted through. Going to replace it as a matter of good practice. See if that helps.

Good morning. What do you think could be the problem?: The symptoms are the door will not open, obviously. The movement "up" is at a snails pace, the chains barely moving. The motor is spinning and sounds normal. The "down" movement seems normal, but I am assuming that is because of the weight of the door itself. No mechanical grinding or obvious bad noises of any kind.

I am pulling an MP gauge out of a Twin Comanche tomorrow. It is the twin needle style where the needles are marked "1" and "2." Who overhauls these? Thanks in advance.

Okay, this a couple of towns East of KERV at 5C1 Boerne, but cool enough to post regardless. Nice Aerostar!!! Happy New Year Y'all!!!

This is the size of the wheel?

Merry Christmas to all. Headed to candle light service right now.

No, I get it. The question put forth was why did they have a bad wrap..

The consensus is; why? add anything to the wing that will slow the airplane from its intended purpose of efficiency while going fast.

My Brother-in-law has a new to him Cessna 170. Smooth flying plane that I am crap at landing correctly, so far (tail wheel endorsement). The damn thing is a pain in the butt to hand pull/push into the hangar. I want to get him the correct tug. Advice would be appreciated. Thanks and Merry Christmas. David.