Slick Nick

I've always wondered, how is balance changed? By using weights on the horn? Are they interchangeable, or is the practice to modify the existing weights somehow?

...Until it didn't.

I think I might be able to grab you the split landing/ taxi light switches let me do some digging around. They’d be for an MSE but should be the same. 28V.

I'd do exactly what you did, you're further proving my point. Whenever I'm questioning doing something close to the limits in an airplane, I always ask myself; "If this goes sideways, and I'm standing in front of a tribunal, can I justify the reason for my actions?" If not, I stick to the book. If I follow the SOP's, and something goes awry, the company is the one at fault. They wrote the SOP's and limitations. If I do something reckless or outside established limits or procedures, I am the one at fault. Back to the accident in question, slow-mo video of the flare shows full aft elevator deflection, without the plane reacting. Either a wind gust / downburst type of situation, or they were way too slow on approach maybe?

Pressure is self induced. You can’t let it get to you. If you don’t think it’s safe, don’t do it. Doesn’t matter if it’s in a Mooney or a Boeing, the same rule applies. There’s a huge difference between acceptable risk, and doing something dangerous. Don’t conflate the two. As professionals, we’re paid to complete the mission, safely. Being able to handle challenging conditions, is part of why experience matters, and as you gain experience and get more comfortable, your level of what is deemed acceptable will increase. I landed in CYYZ not long before this incident. I’d call the conditions “sporty” by Canadian standards, certainly not dangerous. At first glance, it appears as though this approach was mishandled.

Times have changed. There are no auto throttles on the CRJ.

Who fed you that line of BS? There is absolutely ZERO pressure to do anything unsafe in a commercial jet airliner. Of course, as professional pilots, you want to “complete the mission” but never, ever by compromising safety to do so. Never once in my entire command experience, have I ever felt the slightest bit of pressure to do something unsafe, never mind because I might cost the airline some extra money. Airlines look at diversions and delays as a normal cost to doing business. They, like everyone, understand that it’s a lot cheaper to divert a flight than it is to settle lawsuits and cover a hull loss.

I operate into YYZ all the time. I was at the airport when the crash happened. The winds were a little gusty, but certainly nothing outside the limits for ATPL rated pilots, being almost straight down the runway. Before any approach on a commercial jet, you run performance numbers to determine your ref speed at your landing weight, for the given winds and runway surface conditions. From my Monday morning quarterback chair, it looks like the pilot flying did not flare properly for touchdown. If the wind suddenly died off in the flare, your performance calculations take this into account so that the wing still has enough air going over it to fly safely (plus an additional margin for error.)

That looks awesome!

@N201MKTurbo nice! We flew over it on Sproat lake a couple weeks ago!

Sounds like your idle mixture setting is way off. I think you can adjust it be reaching inside one of the cowl flaps and turning the knob.

Nice plane!

They don't get bent. They're hardened steel.

2300 RPM!

Negative. NEVER bend ref vane on a mooney. It’s hardened steel and will snap.

For all the work involved, why not just replace the rudder? BAS has a bunch, you'd just need to have it repainted, which you'd need to do to your stock rudder anyways.

Alright, you guys have convinced me. I'm going to try with some thin CA glue instead. I'll mask both sides and make sure to use a needle tip. With the storm window open, there is just enough "give" if i were to push from the inside and apply glue from the outside, that the edge of the crack opens up ever so slightly. Opening it, applying a drop or two of glue, and then letting go might give just enough time for the glue to wick into the crack and help its appearance. The thin glue I have lists a working time of 3-5 seconds so I'll need to be quick.

Don't take my word for it. Fred George of FLYING magazine went over all the numbers when he wrote the original article on the M20J MSE. They're not just for looks. If you like the looks of the square wingtips on your plane that's fine, all the power to you. But to insist they have no performance benefit and that they were only installed "for looks" is to ignore the data. They do make a big difference. It's why Texas composites, LASAR, and Mooney fitted them instead of leaving the ancient squared off tips in place.

There's no gap really. If I were to do anything more involved, I'd probably grind out a bit of the crack on the inside and use a clear acrylic epoxy. But I'll try the clear PPF strips for now and see how it holds up.

Thanks everyone! I think what I'll do is put a thin strip of 3M clear PPF on each side of the window and leave it alone. I suspect that trying to use any sort of adhesive or epoxy will just make a huge mess. I want to keep the water out of there, as it would have a good chance of freezing at altitude and potentially cracking the window more.

In addition, The wingtips also improved the takeoff performance and reduced the flaps up stalling speed by a whopping 6 knots! They aren’t just for show.

Aren’t the side windows riveted / bolted in? Or is it a threaded stud / nut arrangement?

My plane is always stored in a heated hangar. Up at altitude, I was showing about -37*C OAT today when I Heard a "pop" randomly, figured it was just one of my water bottles expanding. Took me awhile to notice it, a crack in my side window from the storm window hole down to the bottom. What's the fix for this? My plane has relatively new paint, so replacing the whole window is somewhat out of the question. Is there an approved procedure to grind and epoxy this? It whistles slightly over about 150 knots now. Doesnt have to look perfect, its very well out of my field of view.

Just lift the handle, and bend the little tab back further. I was able to get almost a half inch engagement on mine.

@Gee Bee Aeroproducts My MSE came with clear chafe tape on the insides of all cowl edges where pieces meet from the factory. Maybe earlier models didn't? That stuff works like a hot damn. I find it especially useful on the edges of gear doors to keep them from rubbing.