Slick Nick

the switch looks like it has "PC" written on it? Maybe that's a toggle switch and light for the old positive control system, as opposed to having a momentary pushbutton.

What do the labels on the wires say? Try and cross reference with the wiring diagram.

Are you still using the OEM annunciator panel? There is no master caution. There is a time delay built in to prevent the light from coming on and off in turbulence or a turn. If you're sure you had 6 gallons left when the light came on, maybe the low fuel warning circuit is not calibrated properly. There are adjustments behind the front cover of the annunciator panel. First you must move the dipswitch on top of the unit to the "CAL" position and then make your adjustments. This is outlined in the service manual. Have you not read your POH? It should tell you at what fuel level the warning light comes on at. In my J its 2-3 gallons usable remaining. Your S model will likely differ.

I know of a nice little E for sale in Calgary. PM me for details.

I’m a huge fan of Jepp FD, but it’s much more geared towards airline style flying than GA. For GA, ForeFlight is awesome. The time I spent using Garmin SmartCharts, was almost as if I was using “Fisher Price: My First Approach Plate”. The lack of information is annoying, it’s far too dumbed down, and only leads to more fumbling around in their clunky interface if ATC suddenly changes your approach or transition. Having everything displayed on a chart in the traditional manner means everything you need is always right in front of you. YMMV but I’ll stick to ForeFlight.

Brilliant! Thank you!

Thanks Skip. Not sure why it’s got two diodes either, perhaps it was modified sometime in the past. Thanks for confirming the Mooney diagram is incorrect. I will have to check the IPC to see if I can find the specs of the diode. Edit: not listed in the IPC. I believe it’s part of the wiring harness. Is there a way to determine what size of diode should be used?

After the recent talk of alternator failures due to field wires, I decided to give my own a close inspection. I have a Kelly Aerospace alternator on my 1991 MSE (28V) Everything looked good, I’ve got the main ground, the power wire, an AUX terminal (since I have a mechanical tach this is where my Hobbs meter is attached, through a 5A fuse.) I noticed the field terminals, F1 and F2 and compared them to the wiring diagram from the service manual. My diode wire was installed on the F1 terminal instead of F2. Is this correct? Looking at the diagram, F2 is connected to ground both through the diodes, and a straight ground wire. How does that make sense? Wouldn’t current be allowed to bypass the diodes and go straight to ground in this setup? I inspected my diode wire, and it’s actually got 2 diodes, soldered in opposite direction to one another, which made me scratch my head. I seem to remember that two diodes in series oriented opposite of one another, created some sort of a “bias” circuit in AC systems, the diodes were not the same. I should have taken a pic. So, I’ve got the field wire to F1, its shield to ground. (PA08A14) The diode wire from F1 to ground, a jumper wire from F2 to ground, my fused Hobbs wire (DM04A20) on the AUX terminal, the field wire shield to ground, the power wire shield to ground, and the grounding lug attached to the engine block through a skookum thick braided cable. Basically I’m trying to find out why the diode wire is on the F1 terminal instead of F2? It makes no sense to me for it to be on F2, but there are people much smarter than me on this forum so figured I’d ask. I’m not having any electrical issues, but want to make sure everything is wired as it should be. Perhaps it doesn’t even matter.

Incorrect. I’ve got a 1991 J (28V) with manual cowl flaps, and know of at least 4 others. I think it just depended on how they were ordered.

Good catch Skip. Personally, I like having the manual cowl flaps. Being able to “float” them in a climb has come in handy for those summer months. The older J’s had the asymmetrical flaps that didn’t offer cooling as efficient as the later models. I haven’t had an issue yet keeping the temps in check, even on the hottest days in the American southwest.

What are you guys talking about. 3 positions? I’ve got a ‘91 MSE with manual cowl flaps. Doesn’t get anymore “infinitely adjustable” than that. They were an option, has nothing to do with being a 28V machine. The limitation that Skip quoted is legitimate. Funny that in the exact same airplane with manual flaps, taking off with them closed is not an issue. In the winter months, I hardly ever open mine except for start (in case of a fire). When it’s as cold as it gets here in Canada, you’d never get the engine up to temp if you opened them.

It’s an electrical vacuum pump, but still driving the same gyro instrument. If the instrument itself has failed as in the case above, doesn’t do you any good.

Shouldn’t matter. Even if they were the most common seats in the world, no way I’d let a shop get away with losing MY seats. They’re not the shops seats to lose.

Plane being parted out at BAS: https://baspartsales.com/blog/new-in-the-bas-disassembly-hangar-december-8-2025

Why are you just resigning yourself to the fact that the shop owner tells you they're lost? Are you really going to just let it be and eat the cost of new seats yourself (if you can even find them?)

Exactly this. I fly IMC all the time in a few aircraft types, and “steam gauges” have always been reliable. At least if a vacuum pump quits you have an electric backup. What’s the backup when software glitches out?

I think on my engine there is a locating dowel on the flange so the prop can only go on one way?

I use tin tape on the oil cooler in my J. I put on a couple pieces, each subsequent one covering one more row of cooling fins than the last. Makes it easy to reach in and pull one or two strips off when I fly south in the colder months to keep oil temp in the ideal range.

You’ll be fine. I keep the oil cooler in my J half taped off in winter and it’s had no problem up to +10*C

I always wondered what the hell that fuse holder was for! Mechanical tach MSE here.

The factory beacon is a Whelen 90033. I believe -19 is the correct dash number for the red cover, with drain hole, and 3 pin molex connector. They are BRIGHT and have a nice, soft flash to them. The wiring is already run to the tail for the belly beacon, you'll just need to add the 3 pins to the AMP connector by the battery door. Then, a 3 pin Molex will plug right into the beacon light. BAS has the switch you're looking for in stock, (as well as the beacon light) it will slot into the bus bar in your overhead panel and there will be a wire run (should be LB01A20 - light, beacon, circuit #01, 20 gauge) that you'll put a ring terminal on for the switch. The OEM beacon light is offset to the right side of the fuselage slightly, since the rivet seams run the center. Wouldn't take you more than an afternoon to install if you had everything lined up.

It’s a big jet thing. In every Boeing / Airbus I’ve flown, landing lights on at 10, turnoffs on with approach clearance, and taxi on with landing clearance. Makes it easy to confirm with a quick glance up to the switches on final that you’re clear to land.

Shorten the bolt.

I have one of the Commander docking stations for updating my KLN. The base stations / power supply are the same for all units, they change the top cage to fit the unit you have. There are two connectors on mine, a data connector and a power connector. I took them apart, and honestly, if you're handy with a soldering iron you could make your own if you have a DC power supply for the unit. Download the installation guides for your units and have a look at the pinouts to see how many wires you need. The Bendix King stuff I have, has a special "take home" pin that needs to be grounded so the unit knows it's in "practice / update" mode and not in an actual aircraft, so it won't give errors for no GPS position, etc. With that grounded, it pretty much ignores all the inputs and just needs a power/gnd. The data cable is totally seperate, but is just a DB15 cable with a couple wires for RS232 in/out that I run to my computer. Honestly, I like having the heavy chassis to hold the unit on my desk when I'm doing an update, but they are expensive. Up to you if you want to spend the money, but it's nothing you can't fab yourself in an afternoon if you don't mind a more "temporary" setup for updating.

Great news! What were the symptoms you were experiencing? I suspect one of my sensors may be starting to become intermittent.