Slick Nick

Wemacs are designed to be pushed in when opening or closing. This grabs the "ball" section through friction and allows you to adjust the orfice.

I think my sensor has been acting up too lately. Even when I try to get it nice and hot in a climb, the cat never indicates over 200*. That’s with OAT’s in the 0*C—10*C range, but I still think it should get hotter than that. I suspect a connection to the gauge, or the sender itself. My J has the captive type, with the little spring loaded cap that you turn. 90*.

@Marc_B I realize this is an older thread, have you got any photos of the backside of the beacon, from inside the tail cone?

That was the conclusion I came to when I started the search for my airplane. Sure, other models of Mooney fly faster, farther, and higher, but the J model is the best “bang for the buck” out there. Doesn’t mean I don’t want an Acclaim one day though!

The biggest pro that you’d notice coming from a 235 is the speed and efficiency. The 540 in your Cherokee drinks a LOT of gas and doesn’t fly very fast while doing it. A Mooney will go faster, burn less gas, not to mention look a lot better doing it.

Quoted because I believe this deserves some exploration.

I learned more from a 3 second video of a cardboard model, than I did reading the description over and over and looking at parts diagrams. Thank you!

I run with my nav lights on all the time, I hated how the annunciator dimmed during daylight hours with the nav lights on, so I just grounded the third wire on the back of the switch to a ground lug on the panel, and voila permanent bright "GEAR DOWN" annunciator. Being green, it's not that distracting at night either even on full brightness.

Much appreciated! I will be ordering one shortly!

Where did you purchase yours from? Does @tomgo2 sell direct? I am in Canada.

What serial number is your airplane? Looks like after 24-3221 they changed the plug design according to the IPC.

I just bought a half dozen of these NOS Whelen from a guy on eBay. I thought my MSE had been converted to the A508-28 spec but my serial number falls just short. If I wasn’t able to find the bulbs, I was going to convert to the newer sockets that utilize the A508 bulbs. It’s interesting to note, the form factor of the H35W28V bulb is exactly the same as a traditional 9005/9006 automotive bulb, just without the base. I pulled one apart and it fit like a glove in the socket. Of course, it would blow because it’s only rated for 12V, but perhaps there’s something out there, with that form factor, which would make for a cheaper replacement and be good for 28V. I suppose you could also wire in a resistor that would drop the voltage down to enable the use of a 14V bulb once these are truly obsolete and sold out.

I also have two wemacs where the spring clips have come out. Looking at it, I believe it’s not “difficult” just time consuming. I’ve been putting it off for this reason, should probably get it done one of these bad weather weekends.

@natdm that is some hangar floor you’ve got there, pardner!

Ah okay thanks for the info! My MSE came with them so wasn't aware they were a hot-ticket item for some other models.

What about them makes them sought after?

Seems strange that BOTH static ports could become blocked. Good on ya for pulling the alt static when you did. You can always tell when something “doesnt feel right”.

How the hell could you get the thing slowed enough on approach without the gear down?

Why do you need a 430W? Your budget would allow for a nicer plane (mechanically) if you found one without a ton invested in avionics.

I’m relatively new to the Mooney platform, is a properly latched cargo door at risk of opening itself in flight? To date, I haven’t locked mine for flight, just made sure the handle was flush.

If you need a set of inner doors, I can put you in touch with a shop here that’s got a few sets. They’re from J models, but should be the same.

Tabarnak! I am very glad you’re getting this fixed properly and that you didn’t have an engine failure!

But do you buy it to have a spare on the shelf? Or do you have it installed and keep your original as a spare? What is the failure mode of this spring? Is this design any better / more durable? Is there something about the new spring that precludes the likelihood of failure compared to my stock one? Or is it the exact same design, and it should be more durable simply by the fact that it's got fewer cycles on it?

My factory Whelen strobes flash three times between each break.

What a prick! It’s one thing to know nothing about overhauling engines, but it’s another to pretend like you do and keep charging people for your ineptitude.