Slick Nick

I wonder if something or a combination of things was at work here, might be worth exploring why your engine gauges suddenly blanked out at the same time as the failure. Are you on the stock ignition system?

From the maintenance manual, IPA can be added in concentrations not to exceed 1% of total fuel volume. My J has 64gal tanks, so .32 gal per side of IPA is my max if I’m adding to full tanks. That’s 1.2L, round down, call it a litre per tank. I’m going to try this prior to my next flight. It gets COLD here in Canada. At 16,000’ the other day was almost -36*C. I picked up 99% IPA in 1L jugs at Walmart. Was sure not to get the 70% stuff. I’m going to add it as I fuel up, so it mixes really well.

I didn’t want to clutter up your thread so I started my own, but I’ve determined that my gauge is working fine, it was just reslly, really cold that day!

But you’ll often see posts here on Mooneyspace where guys are saying “the airspeed switch idea is so stupid! Why wouldn’t Mooney just use a squat switch like everyone else?”

Okay that makes a lot of sense. I was absolutely flying in “Econ” mode that day! Worked out to about 135 KTAS.

Okay I will try running ROP or at peak next time I go up, and collect some more data points. It’s supposed to be pretty cold through the weekend so will be a good opportunity to do some experimentation. .

Yes, I just had my cowl flaps re-rigged, and all new bushings installed in the linkage. They sit flush when closed, and have zero play in any position.

I actually started following your journey when I randomly came across your YouTube, before I knew you were a mooneyspace member. I was so excited to see this plane in the air again. It’s a sad story indeed, but your dedication speaks volumes! Edit: I thought varlajo was the owner. My mistake, but I have seen Irmin post on here.

Believe it or not, even up at that altitude, I wasn’t able to keep my heater knob pulled all the way without getting hot! I just had my heat muff rebuilt and I gotta say it works like a hot damn!

Yep, as I said in the original post, the oil cooler is currently about 70% blocked with speed tape. Does a great job. Probe was removed, cleaned, and reinstalled. Also used contact cleaner down into the well where the probe sits. Connections appear good. Yes, an engine monitor is in the works.

Here is a photo I took on the day in question. The CHT gauge isn’t super clear, but it was right around the 200* mark for most of the cruise portion of flight.

Yes it was an abnormally cold day at altitude. A giant low the day before had pushed east and that meant some arctic air being forced down to my latitude on the western side of the low. After I landed, the bottom of the wings had fuel frost on them for over an hour! I bought the plane in September, so I haven’t had a chance to fly it in “hot” weather at all. Nothing above about 15*C on the ground. Then, my CHT’s were just a hair over 300-325. I don’t know if it’s also worth noting that my home field is at 4000’ ASL.

Correct. The stock probe goes deep into the well on cylinder #3. I have removed it, cleaned it, and reinstalled. Connections appear solid. No engine monitor (yet, it's in the works) so this is on the ship's gauge. Exactly my thoughts as well on making sure the cylinders are hot enough, which is why I'm asking. I don't suppose there is any sort of a "winter kit" like the Cessna's have for those of us who live in colder climates?

Came across this photo of an F model, has a one piece belly pan with what looks like some strakes bolted onto it. Looks like two long ones, with two shorter ones outboard, mid way down the belly panel. I think the one closest to the nose gear door is an antenna? Or maybe they all are? Interesting modification, I imagine it would help longitudinal stability a bit, at the expense of a little drag. Anyone have any info on it? Perhaps the owner is even a member here. I'm not to familiar with the older model Mooneys, so forgive me if this is a popular modification.

This is my first winter with my 1991 J Model. I'm trying to determine if I've got an issue with my CHT, either the gauge or probe. I live in western Canada, this time of year can get pretty chilly, especially at altitude. I can never seem to get the CHT's up very much above 200*F as shown on my stock gauge. It's that time of year where I blocked half the oil cooler off with tin tape (common Mooney practice in these parts) to keep the oil temps warm. I know cool cylinders mean a long lasting engine, I just want to make sure they aren't too cool, or that I have an issue with the gauge or probe. My baffles are TIGHT and seal extremely well. The other day, I did a 3.5 hour flight at 16,000' where the OAT was about -34*C as shown on my ship's gauge. (Jives with upper wind forecast temps.) With my half-blocked oil cooler, oil temps were stable at 170*F, but the CHT was barely touching 225*F on the gauge. Seems cool to me, even on a cold day? That was 7.1 GPH just lean of peak EGT. WOT, 2400 RPM. At that altitude, worked out to about 16" MP. As an experiment, I took the plane up for a quick flight a few days later. OAT was -6*C. I went full power, 2600 RPM, leaned to peak EGT, kept the cowl flaps closed, and pulled the nose up to 70 knots for an extended climb. I wanted to get it as hot as I could. Oil temp went all the way up to 230*F, but the CHT topped out at 325*F. Seems to me, even though it was a chilly day, it should have been hotter than that? So, are these temps realistic? Or should I suspect an issue with the indication system? Don't get me wrong, I know a cool running engine is a blessing. Living in western Canada, we get some absolutely incredible winter flying weather, very cold and crisp days. I just want to make sure I can take advantage of those while still being able to get my engine hot enough not to damage it, and make sure my CHT gauge is working properly. Plane is stored in a heated hangar year round. Thanks for any help that you can provide!

What was your OAT at the time? The other day up at 16,000 it was -30*C and I could barely get the needle to move off the bottom of my factory gauge. Do you still have your factory gauge installed? How does it compare to what’s shown on your engine monitor?

Wemacs are designed to be pushed in when opening or closing. This grabs the "ball" section through friction and allows you to adjust the orfice.

I think my sensor has been acting up too lately. Even when I try to get it nice and hot in a climb, the cat never indicates over 200*. That’s with OAT’s in the 0*C—10*C range, but I still think it should get hotter than that. I suspect a connection to the gauge, or the sender itself. My J has the captive type, with the little spring loaded cap that you turn. 90*.

@Marc_B I realize this is an older thread, have you got any photos of the backside of the beacon, from inside the tail cone?

That was the conclusion I came to when I started the search for my airplane. Sure, other models of Mooney fly faster, farther, and higher, but the J model is the best “bang for the buck” out there. Doesn’t mean I don’t want an Acclaim one day though!

The biggest pro that you’d notice coming from a 235 is the speed and efficiency. The 540 in your Cherokee drinks a LOT of gas and doesn’t fly very fast while doing it. A Mooney will go faster, burn less gas, not to mention look a lot better doing it.

Quoted because I believe this deserves some exploration.

I learned more from a 3 second video of a cardboard model, than I did reading the description over and over and looking at parts diagrams. Thank you!

I run with my nav lights on all the time, I hated how the annunciator dimmed during daylight hours with the nav lights on, so I just grounded the third wire on the back of the switch to a ground lug on the panel, and voila permanent bright "GEAR DOWN" annunciator. Being green, it's not that distracting at night either even on full brightness.

Much appreciated! I will be ordering one shortly!