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Mine are open a little when fully closed inside. It's an inch or two, I've never measured it. When I crack them a little more to get CHT down in cruise, it doesn't change the oil temp. Sent from my Pixel 6a using Tapatalk

I used 3/4 pipe to build my tow bars. I'm not sure exactly what the OD is but, it's pretty close to 1". Sent from my Pixel 6a using Tapatalk

Thanks, it looks like you're running a little cooler than I am. Sent from my Pixel 6a using Tapatalk

There's a slight gap in the cowl flaps when fully closed, I've got to crack them a little further sometimes. Looking through my engine logs over the last few flights, CHTs are 370 - 400 during cruise, 1 and 2 are on the lower end, 3 and 4 are 390 - 400. I'm not overly concerned about it right now, I'd just like to see it all a little lower if I can. When summer rolls around, it's going to be harder to keep them cool enough. I realize that part of this is that I've got more information than I had before, when the gauges were analog and I only had 1 CHT and 1 Oil Temp gauge, I didn't have enough information to fret about temp too much. Now I've got the big, pretty display and logs to look at after the flight so it's easy to overthink it.

I know they do, I'm not comfortable with it though. If I overheat a cylinder, they get to sell me one and I have to buy one so our goals aren't necessarily aligned...

Yeah, I've been through it pretty thoroughly. Sealed up a few things with at annual. The alternator and starter both have felt that I put on myself when replacing them, they seal pretty well.

It's been on the high side of the gauge the 1.5 years I've had the plane but, I had the analog gauges until putting in an EDM 930 a few months ago. The old gauge bounced around quite a bit which made it tough to have a really accurate reading. It was higher in summer though, and that's really my biggest concern, if I'm hitting 220 in cruise occasionally with temps where they are now, it's going to be worse when we're 100+ on the ground and have to climb to 10k to get below 60. What are your typical oil temps in cruise? Another part of this is that in warmer air, I have a hard time keeping my CHTs on 3 and 4 below 400 in cruise. I'll have to open the cowl flaps a little to get the temps down. It's also very easy to see CHTs in the 420+ range on climb out when it's 80+, which isn't even kind of hot here. I often have to climb at 120ish to keep my CHTs at 400 or less. The baffling is in decent shape, I don't think the problem is there. I've got to believe that lower oil temps would help with this some, certainly wouldn't hurt anyway. I'm going to flush out my oil cooler and swap in a new vernatherm at my next oil change anyway, I've already got the parts, I'm just curious what temp ranges other are seeing.

My oil temp has been running what I think is a little on the high side, around 190 - 210 in cruise, occasionally as high as 225. Climb out is about the same. What do you guys normally see on yours? I'd be a lot more comfortable in the 165 - 180 range, I think.

I've got a C at Kerville that I'd be willing to give you a ride in. I had 20 hours when I bought it. Finished my PPL training and did my check ride in it. They're not hard to fly and really aren't much more to manage than a Cherokee. Sent from my Pixel 6a using Tapatalk

It's not uncommon to see a different reading from different parts of the wiring. Voltage drop across the wire, the EDM should be grounded directly to the engine vs the AV20 likely being grounded to a convenient spot on the airframe, etc. I wouldn't worry about it, the EDM is the one you should trust. Sent from my Pixel 6a using Tapatalk

https://www.amazon.com/DIYChemicals-Methyl-Ethyl-Ketone-Gallon/dp/B096SVGMN9

https://www.laballey.com/products/varsol-solvent If you're actually in Kerrville, David has a 55 gallon drum of Varsol at Dugosh.

That's exactly how it is in my 63 C, open scat tube secured behind the radio rack for cooling. Sent from my Pixel 6a using Tapatalk

Mine are in an access panel in my left wing. They both read the same and both are a few degrees cooler than the analog gauge in my windshield that gets full sun. Sent from my Pixel 6a using Tapatalk

There's usually lots of transient parking but, they're closing down 03-21 to park planes on for this so I don't know what might be available. It's supposed to be overcast with a 50% chance of rain on Monday so it may be completely empty. You could try T82 also, it's only 30 minutes from KERV by car. 49R is a small, public use private airport that's in the totality zone, they don't have any services but, Leakey is a nice little town. KUVA would be another possibility. Sent from my Pixel 6a using Tapatalk

I don't know that there are really any options other than AWI now. They told us we had to send them everything so they could inspect it all, I'm not sure if they'll let you send just the muffler if you push back on that. I had to send the shroud and we needed the EGT probe hole welded anyway, so it wasn't really a big deal to me. This was an expensive annual but, its over with now and the plane flies great. It's only money, I can make more...I hope.

It was everything. Muffler, the shroud, down pipes, the whole shebang. The shroud has a hole in it and they had to do some work on the pipes as well, I can't remember what all. I was adding a JPI also so, we had them weld up the old EGT probe hole while they had it.

AWI did my exhaust in September when I did my annual. Flame cones were gone, it ended up being $2700 for everything, including shipping, and took right at 3 weeks. I only had an IRAN done but essentially got back an overhauled exhaust because it needed almost everything. Sent from my Pixel 6a using Tapatalk

Dugosh is in Kerville and does very good work. I spent several months in their hangar when I was doing my avionics work and can say that David knows his stuff and is very thorough. Sent from my Pixel 6a using Tapatalk

When I still lived in Houston, I dropped someone off to catch that bus once. They just picked you up in a parking lot downtown, no terminal or anything. That was probably 10 years ago though, it may have changed since then.

I do San Antonio, well Kerrville actually, to Dallas pretty regularly. Typically burn 28 gallons round trip but, it turns what would be 13 hours of driving into less than 4 hours of flying. I'm pretty sure I spend less flying than it would cost to make the drive.

I bet just about any printer or sign shop would be able to either print on the acrylic or put vinyl decals on it. Another alternative would be to mask the entire visor, laser etc the image/text through the masking and then spray paint it. I have a laser that could probably do that, it's hit and miss with acrylic because it's a blue LED laser that passes through clear acrylic but, I think it would work fine on the smoked acrylic used for visors.

That's crazy, mine have been like $150. I've had 3 in the last 18 months. Sent from my Pixel 6a using Tapatalk

Here's the BOM, not including the steel to build the tow bar. Motor Motor controller Wheel Type 25 chain sprocket - You'll have to drill detents in the motor driveshaft to keep it in place. Chain Milwaukee battery adapter I used the 1/4" pin from my original towbar on this one and had some Duestsch connectors on hand for other stuff so used a 2-pin connector for the motor connection. The motor mount was made out of some 1/8" x 6" flat bar and I drilled and slotted the holes in that for the adjustment. The rest of it is pretty straightforward. If someone wants me to build them one, or just the tow bar part, send me a message and we'll figure something out. I may try one with the wheelchair motor @Skyland used in his, going direct drive would clean this up a little and reduce some weight.

Success! I had to brace the wheel mounting bracket, it was deflecting enough to put too much slack in the chain. I also had to reduce the angle of the bend in the top section to clear the spinner and get the towbar in. It works pretty well, I still have to put the boards in between the hangar door tracks or it gets stuck between track 2 and the concrete lip, with those in place this is pretty effortless. Once split, it gets really compact so it'll be easy to find a place for this in the plane. I'll put together a material list with Amazon links a little later. Sent from my Pixel 6a using Tapatalk