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So I built something myself for about $200 in parts. I may have to drop the tire down or make a handle extension to get the geometry right, I'll find out when I try it tomorrow. The little C seems to gain weight every time I push it back into the hangar. Plus, it's hard to steer and get enough momentum to get over the lip. Sent from my Pixel 6a using Tapatalk

The original version is a blue plastic, the upgraded version is metal and can be rebuilt. Sent from my Pixel 6a using Tapatalk

A 182 left about 20 minutes before me this afternoon heading in the same direction. 30 minutes into my flight, I overtook him in my C. I probably burned less fuel than him also. Just sayin.... Sent from my Pixel 6a using Tapatalk

I put it in the freezer if it's above 70 outside, it's easier to handle cold. Also, as I mentioned in the other post, keep your fingers wet and it won't adhere to them. Once you know the tricks, it's really easy to work with.

Don't believe the part about No Mess, it's super sticky. Keep your fingers wet while working with it and it won't stick to you. I keep a cup of water handy to dip my fingers in when I'm installing it. Sent from my Pixel 6a using Tapatalk

This is what Mooney will tell you to use 3M Strip Calk, 08578, Black Color, Soft Butyl Rubber, Paintable Immediately, 1 ft Strips, 60/Carton https://a.co/d/0WHvtiB Sent from my Pixel 6a using Tapatalk

I'll be the contrarian, I had 20 hours total time when I bought my C. Almost 300 hours later, I don't regret it. I finished my private and did my instrument in it. There really isn't that much more to manage over a 172, cowl flaps, prop and gear is about it. The biggest challenge I had was learning to slow it down. They're not as hard to land as everyone says, IF you're on your speeds. I had a few hard landings but, it wasn't more than a handful, every once in a while I still have an "arrival." Insurance is an issue, I couldn't get it as a student, period. So, I paid cash for the plane and carried the risk. If you can afford to buy the plane outright and are willing to take the risk of self-insuring, do it if you want to. Don't let anyone talk you out of it. Yes, there is about a 70% drop out rate during private training but, a large percentage of that is because of lack of funds or younger people that just don't have the determination to finish. As a fellow business owner, I know that you don't grow a successful business without following through on things you decide you're going to do. Spending the money on the plane will only strengthen your determination to finish. In summary, if you can afford it and you want it, go buy the plane and have fun. Sent from my Pixel 6a using Tapatalk

I say get the medical worked out first. Other than that, I had 20 hours in my logbook when I bought my C and finished my private training in it, including the check ride. I'm about 270 hours in the Mooney now and it's been a great plane to learn in. If that's what you want, and you can afford it, then get it. One thing that pops out to me is your mention of a $40k budget... You can either buy a plane to work on or a plane to fly, at $40k, you're buying a project. That's maybe fine if you want something to do while you're waiting on your medical to get worked out and you have a willing AP/IA to help you along the way but, if that's not the case I think you need to plan on spending at least 50% more than that to get a plane that's not going to need expensive maintenance almost immediately. Cheap planes are almost never inexpensive.

I kept mine on a tie down with a Bruce's cover for about 15 months before I got a hangar. Sure I'd rather have had it inside but, I did a whole lot of flying that I wouldn't have if I didn't have the plane. It's outside when you're flying it and probably going to be outside when you're away from home, several months to a year on a tie down won't destroy a plane that's getting used and maintained regularly. Mine wasn't any worse for the year, it was already 60 years old and had 6600 TTAF when I bought it and tied it down. Sent from my Pixel 6a using Tapatalk

I added my CAD drawing to the downloads in case anyone else needs it.

I just redid the panel in my 63 C and have a CAD file for the whole panel. You could probably break it up, PM me your email address and I'll send it to you. Sent from my Pixel 6a using Tapatalk

I didn't think I was inferring that they were the same quality motor. I just thought it was interesting to understand the internal components and how it functioned. I certainly didn't mean to trigger you so... [emoji2957] Sent from my Pixel 6a using Tapatalk

Not that I'm going to do this, nor would I recommend anyone else doing so, but I thought this was really interesting just because I like to know how things work.

The reason Globe was suggested is because they're the original manufacturer of the motors. S-Tec doesn't build those themselves, and likely sends them to Globe for repair as well. I don't think even the FAA would have a problem with a repair made by the OEM to original specs, as long as the appropriate logbook entries are made and signed off on. This is kind of a funny conversation in that it only exists because the Mooney is certified. If the was the Vans forum, I could go down to the local Hardware Store or Radio Shack and buy any motor I wanted to off the shelf and modify it however I needed to make it work. That simple fact makes me believe that a lot of the FAA rules aren't really about safety. Honestly, most of the parts in an airplane aren't all that complicated to work on, even the avionics. I mean seriously, an electric motor is an electric motor, there's not something magic that happens to it when it gets put into an airplane part. There are a lot of people that could do as good of, or probably even better, work as many A&Ps that aren't allowed to only because they lack a piece of paper. It would be nice if the FAA had a limited cert to allow an owner to work on their own plane, like Canada does. I don't expect it to happen anytime soon though.

There's really not all that much to the motor. If it wasn't something for an airplane, a replacement would probably be $30 or so. New brushes would probably solve my problem. Sent from my Pixel 6a using Tapatalk

Brilliant, I should have thought of that. I'll do exactly that if I can't get it cleaned up and running. Thank you! Sent from my Pixel 6a using Tapatalk

That's what I was doing It's 1 and 34 for pitch, 33 and 50 for roll. Sent from my Pixel 6a using Tapatalk

There's a really old newsletter from S-Tec from 1996 that talks about it. Give me an email address and I'll forward it to you. Edit - I went ahead and uploaded it here. Sent from my Pixel 6a using Tapatalk STec Newsletter Troubleshooting Oscillations.pdf

My Alt hold has been erratic recently so I ohmed the pitch servo across pins 3-4 and got 60 ohms. It should be about 4 so I connected it to 12v to deglaze the motor and it ran for a minute or so before just shutting off and now it's ohming open so, I think it's time for an overhaul. Anyone had this done recently? How much was it and how long did it take?

2023 for me. I was down from mid-Aug until late Nov with annual and avionics upgrades.

That's how I ended up finding one. I downloaded a list of every one in the state and started texting and emailing. 70% never replied, 25% were booked for 6+ weeks, some 12+, 4.9% weren't testing anymore for one reason or another, .1% got me in 2 weeks after I contacted him. Robert Steenbock in Brownsville seems to have better availability than most. Robert Baldock in Coleman is who I used but, he's booked until Feb/Mar right now.

I can't tell you how many electrical problems I've solved on boats, cars and heavy equipment by fixing the ground. So many that it's usually the first thing I check. Sent from my Pixel 6a using Tapatalk

I agree, if it was mine I'd have it IRANed and fly on. Sent from my Pixel 6a using Tapatalk

I think the XC is fine also. Lycoming and J&J said to use mineral oil though, so I am. I figured no harm either way. Sent from my Pixel 6a using Tapatalk

There's a break-in procedure in an SB. I don't know if it's different for the IO-360 but for my O-360 it was start it up and warm the oil then run for 15 minutes at 1500 RPM with someone outside looking for leaks. If it ran fine for the 15 minutes then go to full throttle for I think it was 30 seconds. Assuming that all went well then it said to cowl it up and fly it at 70% power for an hour, then vary between 60-60% for an hour and then full power.for 30 minutes. If I'm remembering correctly, it said to stay below 7500 or so. Mine ran HOT for the first 30 minutes or so of flight and then started working its way down. By the time the flight was done, it was within 40° of the other cylinders. I used 1 Qt of oil during the test flight. I'm running Aeroshell 100 for the first 25 hours, then if oil consumption is stable I'll go back to Phillips XC. Sent from my Pixel 6a using Tapatalk