Pinecone

I crank and taxi on one tank. Normally the lower one. Then switch to the fully one before the runup.

Hmm, part of the pre-flight/pre-start is to drain the gascolator on EACH tank. Part of the pre-takeoff is to switch tanks. I like knowing, BEFORE I take off, that I can feed fuel from both tanks.

I will have to ask. But, in that case, they should read about the same. I know that the JPI oil temp sender is at the front of the case. Not sure where the stock one is.

Where is the JPI oil pressure sender normally mounted (TSIO-360)? My analog gauge shows pressure above mid green arc. So around 60, assuming the gauge is accurate and linear.

Isn’t the R part of the “numbers”??

Good idea

Didn’t they have the exhaust throttle for the .020? I know there was one for the .049/.051

Thanks

Jumping onto this thread. What I am seeing is low oil temp and low pressure. TSIO-360-SB. Both stock gauges and JPI 830 (not primary) installed. I understand that the JPI numbers will be different due to different sensor locations. But on a recent trip, the analog oil pressure seemed to be 60 - 65 psi (hard to say with minimal markings). JPI reads 52 - 54 psi. Oil temp- analog is very low. Maybe 1/4 of the way up the green arc, so maybe 140. JPI reads 166. Just out of annual, and they adjusted the oil pressure relief up some. What say the experts?

I did not count all the model airplane engines. I am sure more than 20 of them from over the years. Including a Cox .010. TINY little thing.

Need one more EIS strip for CHT. But don't really need to see EGT all the time. I would be fine with showing the hottest only, and tap to expand.

I would get something like these: https://www.amazon.com/Makita-DMP180ZX-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Inflator/dp/B085DV34VC/ref=sr_1_5?crid=35IULSLCQ08EW&keywords=air+compressor+makita&qid=1672926807&sprefix=air+compressor+makita%2Caps%2C72&sr=8-5 https://www.amazon.com/Ryobi-18-Volt-ONE-Power-Inflator/dp/B07F88XL24/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1I36T2ITZ0SOM&keywords=air+compressor+ryobi&qid=1672926865&sprefix=air+compressor+ryobi%2Caps%2C63&sr=8-3 https://www.amazon.com/AUTDER-Inflator-Compressor-Portable-Cigarette/dp/B09JFPN1NP/ref=sr_1_12?crid=3TJPW0YEBUPEB&keywords=air+compressor+milwaukee&qid=1672926887&sprefix=air+compressor+milwaukee%2Caps%2C67&sr=8-12&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.18ed3cb5-28d5-4975-8bc7-93deae8f9840 I wish MIlwaukee made a smaller and lighter one, then I could use the battery from my Sidewinder.

And it makes a lot of sense to spend 3 AMU, plus install to avoid buying a $540 probe.

When we got our sail boat, we initially thought trailerable. But figured out we would need a truck to tow is, so when not just buy a bigger sailboat. Sailboat had 1 (yes ONE) cylinder. With airplane, race car, daily driver, performance car, collector car, SUV for hauling stuff, I have 34 also.

There is. Some carriers will reduce your rate for recurrent training, like the Mooney PPP or the Beech equivalent. And most require some hours with an instructor initially. Mine wanted 5 hours dual to check out, then 5 hours solo before carrying passengers.

Mine wasn't so bad. And at least the Magneti Marelli electrics worked.

I have had all three, but not at the same time. Used to own a Laser 28 sailboat. Faster that most bigger boats. Hmm, is there a pattern somewhere in there? Also have performance cars (two M3s).

Hmm, those sound familiar.

I have to check. It is right outside the door. About the middle of the door.

Just did some reading. If it was a Super 7, it had be a Series 2. Before that was the 7 (no Super) Series 1 and 2. The Series 3 came out in 68, so your could not have been one. The Series 3 is what the current Caterham cars are based on. The Series 4 was all fiberglass body. Swoopy looking. As for reliability, my intro to sports cars was a Fiat 850 Spider. I got it my senior year in high school. By the time I was done, it was pretty much an Abarth

Also thanks. I may have to do this same repair. However, if it turns out the leak is at a rivet, is there an easy way to fix it?

I BOW DOWN to you. Both for having some cool cars, and surviving the experience. Which series Super 7? I know purists like the Series 3 best, but I was always partial to the looks of the Series 4.

That is fine. BUT you do need to figure out why the valve is leaking. It may not be a big thing, but it could be. Of, if you did the compression test and found a valve leaking, would you ignore it? Or determine why? Which may be simple or not.

Bruce's Covers has a plug for the NACA duct. I have one for my plane.

There is a big difference between water being sucked into the fuel system and sprayed through the injectors and several ounces or cups of water being sucked in through the air intake system.