Pinecone

I emailed Frank again and he sent me the chart below. But the quick answer is, the 1 to 1 tach time is 2500 RPM.

They installed a temp probe for my JPI 830, even through I have OAT from the GPS/Aspen/G55.

What size of these clamps? Is there a standard size for the oil drain hose?

In the 90s I had a group of guys that did the civilian air combat thing at Sky Warriors, at FTY, in T-34s. Of course, only doing aerobatics/air combat once a year, you will not handle it well. The transderm scop patches came out and worked great. None of my group had any side effects and it stopped the airsickness, even the queasiness, so they could seriously fly. I even used them (I was NOT PIC for those flights). And had no issues. At the time, they were over the counter. They got pulled, then later came back as prescription only, due to publicized issues. But most of them were during long term continuous use. One was with the USNA where some long distance sailors wore them continuously for something like 10 days. The instructions said to remove the patch after a couple of days and not apply a new one for 24 hours.

My K does not have a beacon. There is a round hole on the belly with an patch inside the fuselage. I would like a beacon, but mainly for ground ops, to warn people the aircraft is hot and about to start. Also, I would leave the switch ON, so if the Master is one, the beacon is on. And walking away from the plane, a quick look back will let you know you left the master on. Whelan has two LED aerodynamic shaped beacons and several round ones. The aero ones are $1600 and $2400. OUCH. But they do have a "Ground Recognition Light" which is like a beacon, but not as bright. Only $300.

I watched professionals at the BMW factory in SC do chip touch up. They used the typical auto touchup paint you can buy at the auto parts store. But they used a very fine artists brush. They actually filled the chip with paint, then once dry, buffed it flat. After, you can't tell.

There are several ways to stop this practice. That would be one way. The $10 was enacted in 1966. Change it to be the value (about $100) today. Require the reserved N number to be associated with an aircraft serial number or an individual person (for scratch homebuilders). And limit 1 number per person.

My next step will be to run the tank down to the low fuel light, then fill to see how much is actually in the tank at the low fuel light.

OK, Max Pulse it is. Now, pulse rec lights left/right, or pulse rec lights together alternating with the taxi or landing light????

He probably does it with a bot. People have reported he has renewed them a couple of seconds after the hold expires.

I have flown a number of PAR and ASR approaches. At least for training, I don't recall if any were for real. Maybe one or two. Nothing like flying a heavy weight PAR in the T-38, with a final approach speed of 175 KIAS. I have not flown a 4 course radio range approach, but my Dad flew them all the time. He was a USN pilot in the 50s and 60s. I have a friend who has a hobby of finding the remains of old radio range stations. The huge concrete blocks are hard to get rid of. He has found a number of the radio buildings intact.

I originally was going to do it in 1 gallon increments. But decided 2.5 gallons was easier and close enough. I did run a tank to the low fuel light in December. I was going to be somewhat low on fuel on landing, and my preference is to have as much as possible in1 tank versus spilt between two. I was not tight as to run one tank dry, but I did want to run it down a bit. And again, my use of this is to see how much fuel in in the plane to determine how much to add based on the next leg and W&B concerns. If you are interested, the reason 2.5 increments was easier is: I have 5 each 5 gallon jugs. I filled all 5 up with 55 gallons each. Since if there is less than 5 gallons in a tank, I don't care how much less, I poured one jug into the tank. I then took a full one and poured half into the empty one. This was easy to check, as I set the two jugs next to each other to see that the levels matched. Add the 2.5 gallons into the tank, wait for the levels to settle, measure, repeat.

OK, as requested, here are pictures of the locations I used the two devices. You can see how large the Fuel Stik is and why, due to the flapper I used dead after to reduce how far you have to push the flapper in. The pictures are of the aux filler.

MAYBE https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Santos_Dumont_Airport#:~:text=Over the years%2C the airport's,4%2C340 feet (1%2C320 m).

A lot of nice numbers, especially short ones, are taken by a guy who is reselling them. He has several THOUSAND locked up. And can charge you $100,000 for a desirable one. Big thread on BT. I like mine. 2 Victor Mike is easy to say and seldom misunderstood.

I can get a picture of the aux filler port and the locations I used later today. I can't get a picture of the main filler, as the tanks are FULL. And yes, I discovered a leaking screw from having totally full tanks. As for keeping track, my thoughts are to dip after landing to see what is in the each tank, then I will just put in what I want to get to where I need to be. The only caveat, if you think you have over 42 gallons, open and dip the aux FIRST. Actually, opening and dipping the aux filler first is probably a good habit to get into. If there is enough fuel to get a reading, you don't need to dip the main filler. And if there isn't, you can then dip the main, or use the sight gauge. I need to do the same on the left tank to check the sight gauge readings.

He consulted with me when I was shopping. I could not get the airplane to him for the prebuy, but he worked with the shop that did it, and recently did my first annual.

1) I waited at least 5 minutes between each addition of 2.5 gallons. I also checked, waited a minute or two and checked again to make sure it was not changing. 2) I used the same location for each reading. For the Fuel Hawk, I used the inner, aft cutout in the cap mount. For the Fuel Stik, I put it at the after center of the opening. Due to the flaps and the size of the Fuel Stik, this worked best. 3) Yes, I understand that they are connected and it takes time for the fuel to move from one tank to the other.

Disagree. Sticking valves are commonly only one cylinder and are related to cold. Other things could be cold related, but only some of the cylinders.

Prove it. Track them down and find out. It was a SUPPOSITION.

Bryon @jetdriven at KGAI.

Nope. Once catalyzed, it cross links and turns solid in a few hours or a day at most.

You also need catalyst. These are two part paints. And I would check that the 15 year old paint is even a liquid at this point. You can buy fairly small cans of catalyst and thinner. As long as the thinner does not evaporate, it lasts many years. The catalyst, once opened, has limited shelf life. For thinning paint, I use the thinner recommended by the manufacturer. It is the only way to ensure compatibility. For cleaning your equipment you can use acetone, MEK, or generic lacquer thinner.

The discussion moved to start the process to have the STC declared abandoned.

I have heard the same thing. But just saying what I was taught. A number of years ago.