redbaron1982

Did you check your fuses? Are they all in? Anyone popped?

Is the electric trim working if you use the trim switches in the yoke?

I can do a full 360, stopping at each cardinal point, and getting correct readings while in free gyro mode, while in slave mode I get incorrect readings. I'm quite sure the issue is with the slaving rather than the gyro. Now, wether if it is just a calibration issue or a component failing, or in the latter, which component is failing, I don't know.

When in free gyro the heading seems to work fine. That wouldn't rule out the KG102?

Thanks, Jake! I did the procedure today and I got N/S perfectly aligned, E was already ok, but when I tried to do W the pot was already all the way to the side I needed to turn it. So I was not able to align W. I guess the next step would be to do the average of all errors and rotate the KMT 112 and re-do the KA 51A calibration. Is that correct? My second question is, how the **** I get to the tail to rotate the KMT?! I don´t see any access panel nearby. Am I supposed to crowl from the avionics bay down the tail cone to reach the KMT 112?

The font size can be changed, for sure. The angle of the picture is what makes it look different, I measured the size of the font and is within 0.1mm of the original font size.

This is how they are looking now. I'm finishing my first batch this weekend. The covers I'll have are: * NAV LITE * RADIO MASTER * PITOT HEAT * ELEV TRIM * BOOST PUMP * LDG LITE * RECOG LITE * STROBE LITE * PROP DE ICE I can do Klixon too. What I cannot do now are the split ones, like L and R ldg lite. Basically because I don't have an original cover to copy from.

I have own the airplane for 2+ years now and AFAIK it was never calibrated. Thanks for the advise, I'm going to look first around Houston and if I don't find anything I'll send it to them or Bevan.

I've noticed in the last weeks that my HSI is not aligned with the mag compass. The HSI is a BK KI 525A. The HDG flag is out of view and slaving is active. I flew different headings and the difference is not always the same, seems to be worse flying west (+15 degrees diff with compass), a little bit better (+7) on north/south headings and finally flying east there is not difference between the HSI heading and the mag compass. I was flying straight and level. Also, looking at the track in FF, I would tend to agree that the mag compass is reading correctly and the issue is with the HSI. Any idea what can be causing this?

The "why" the temps will eventually go down when leaning is because at some point you're going to remove enough fuel that the output power from the engine will start to go down, and that will bring down the CHT as well. Think it this way: if you are ROP you are throwing more fuel than what the engine needs to produce power, the combustion will run out of oxygen before it runs out of fuel. So the extra, unburnt fuel, will cool the engine. As you lean, you are still burning the same amount of fuel in the combustion, but you're reducing how much fuel is left unburnt, so you're not cooling less, then CHT rises. If you continue leaning, you're going to get to the point where all the fuel gets burnt during the combustion and nothing is left unburnt to cool the engine, but, and here comes the magic of LOP, if you continue leaning, now what you're going to have in excess is air, so all the fuel will burn, but you're not going to use all the air that entered the cylinder, so now your extra cooling is coming from the unused air. One more comment, be careful with the "big quick mixture pull", it is correct, but the problem is that people understand different things by "big" and "quick", lol. So quick doesn't mean to do it in 1 second, and big doesn´t mean to pull it to almost close. If you're under 75% in a non-turbo like yours, you can take 10s (or more) to bring the mixture to the lean side without adding extra stress to your engine. For sure, always monitor CHTs so they don´t get above 400F during the process.

A few weeks ago I had a vac pump failure, I got it replaced, and yesterday I did my first post maintenance flight and when landed found some oil in the nose landing gear door (right) and it seems to come from the vac pump. I'm waiting for input from SavvyMX, but I´d like your guys opinion on this too. Attached are all the pictures of the oil I took.

I can do red resin, but the master switch has a different design and I don´t have any cover to recreate the 3D model. If anyone can share with me a broken master switch cover, I can create the 3D model for it. As a result, at this point I can only do the regular ETA switches (both in white or red resin for the high boost pump). @Red Leader I will send you a pm with the information I need to make the covers for you.

I think all in all the M20J is the best bang for your buck...

Yes, it's a small (just a few miles) imperfection of the print. After sanding it goes away. Does pics were before sanding.

Super happy how it feels and looks: Color is not a perfect match, but is good enough to me.

Now I have the text on the curved top too. I think this is going to be as good as I will be able to make them.

I think my M20J has the TKS control panel there. Maybe is a space available for optional equip?

My approach is a bit different, taking advantage of the higher quality of resin printers. I don't have to paint the switch covers, only the text engraving. I have put my version next to an original switch and is hard to tell the difference, except for the color not being exactly the same. When I bought some covers from cobra pilot they were $15 ea.

I need to convince my wife to spend some time with solidworks to see if we can get the 3d model for that. If we can, I think from a print point of view it should work fine.

I got a new 3d resin printer and (with my wife helped) created an almost perfect reply of an ETA switch cover. Text is engraved and filled with black paint. It works perfect, as good as new / original. Is anyone interested? My idea is to sell them for a small price ($15 / ea or $120 for ten + shipping).

I haven't fly through an alert area (yet), but whenever that happens I will do it with flight following.

Are you referring to 1029D? That SI covers two scenarios: completely disassembled engine and replacing one cylinder, which means retorquing the free-thru studs, but doesn't specify a procedure to re-torque an already installed cylinder.

I'm 99% sure that you cannot re-torque the studs once installed. To begin with, the torque you apply when tightening a bolt has two "sources": the resistance of the bolt to turn and the tension of the stud. For this studs, what you want is your torque to be coming from the tension of the stud, as that is what causes the pre-load that will keep the cylinder in place. A stud that has been installed 200 hours ago most likely if you try to re-torque it, most of the torque you apply will go towards overcoming the resistance of the bolt to turn. I would bet that a properly torqued stud, 200 hours after will most likely require a much higher torque to further tight it.

I guess the only thing that is required is for the airplane to have complied with all the ADs requirements at the moment it leaves the factory. But if the AD has a recurring inspection as a compliance method, then the owner will have to continue performing the inspection on the required interval.

Yeah, that was my concern, if the steel grade is known for each part.