redbaron1982

Yeah, you can share links here. MS is quite open in regards on what you can post and links you can post. You add links to other forums and moderates are usually ok with that. As a relatively new first owner myself, I cannot stress more the fact that the purchase price is just the down payment, and I think this is specially true for old airplanes. You can be lucky, but plan to have an ongoing high maintenance cost. Things brake, even more in a machine that is 60 years old like the one you mentioned for instance. And anything in aviation is expensive. You can save some costs by doing some of the maintenance yourself, but you need to have an A&P that is ok to work with you like this, and you have to have a lot of time to spend working on the airplane. With my limited experience I can say that owning an airplane (specially an old one) requires either lots of time and lots of money, or some time and tons of money.

I did copies for mine in Lowe's... never thought on getting much fancier than that for a key.

On the ground I'm idling always at 1000-1200rpm with the mixture aggressively leaned. I usually climb WOT / 2600RPM / Full Rich. I don't lean until I level off mainly because I'm still working on solving a high CHT issue. I do the rest of flight with the mixture leaned but still ROP, 50F rich of peak.

One clarification, maybe fouling is not the best term. They get massive lead deposits. I need to take them out again, last time I did was 20 hours ago, but my last flight I did an in-flight mag check and the left magneto, although was running "smoothly" it was misfiring every 3 or 4 seconds. I suspect that is a spark plug. And was planning on replacing them for the BY type already to see if I can avoid having to clean them every 20 or so hours.

That's some bad news, lol. So my options, to improve my current condition, is changing the whole harness for one that is 5/8-24 or get fine wires. Both options way above $500. So I guess I'm going to keep cleaning the bottom sparkplugs and get better at leaning to prevent fouling.

Hey, this is kind of a idiot question. So I keep having fouling issues with my bottom spark plugs so I was planning to get the BY model from tempest. The thing is that my airplane has 3/4 #20 leads. So no BY model for me. I don't know from where I got the (now I think wrong idea) that the equivalent to BY for my leads would be the URHB37E. So I got 4 to replace my bottom spark plugs and first they don't have the protruding electrode like the BY ones and also the thread into the cylinder is much longer. Looking at Lycoming SI 1042, long reach plugs are to be used in special cylinders. So is not that you can go from normal to long reach on the same engine. Am I correct? Is there any alternative (different from fine wires) to have a spark plug that helps me with the fouling issue I keep having? The reason why I don't want to use fine wire is because of the crazy price.

I use Savvy for maintenance guidance, and they recommend not adding oil until it is at 4qt, and then only add 2qt to get it to 6. I'm doing that without any noticeable effect on oil pressure.

Are them that bad? Mine was overhauled by Kelly. They have roughly 30 hours in, so far so good. Engine run great LOP. And I did a mag check in flight running LOP and it was very smooth.

The only entry I can find in the log book regarding the governor is from 5/2015 when it was installed new after a prop strike tear down. So it's 8 years and ~1000TT since then. Looking back at the data from the GI 275 from the previous owner, I see that in 2021 it was already doing this fluctuation:

That's a good point, it could also explain why my RPMs are always fluctuating a bit (like +/- 20RPM).

The airplane is in my profile, M20J, the prop is on my post: 3 blades MT. The engine... are there more than one engine on M20J? Lycoming IO 360 A3B6D.

This happened to me twice already, trying to go from ROP to LOP I pulled the mixture too much, to the point when the engine started to quit, and the RPM would surge (for instance I was cruising at 2400 RPM and when did the mixture pull they went up to 2900 RPM). This lasted for less than 1 second as in both cases I pushed the mixture back in and then lean by using the vernier, in a much slower fashion. My question is, is this normal? So, if the engine quits, for instance, due to fuel starvation, then the propeller would overspeed? Oil pressure should remain fairly stable if the prop is spinning, no matter if it is because of engine own power or air moving through the prop. So why an engine that is quiting makes the prop overspeed? I've checked in both cases and due to the very short duration of the overspeed, and the actual RPM value, the prop is ok, doesn´t require a special inspection or overhaul. BTW: The prop is a 3 blades MT.

Do you have the 3d file to print the eta switch cover?

Free market is king... and it seems that around here this is the type of content that gets most attention. It is sad, but true. PS: This is my second and last comment in this thread.

I was going to post exactly the same thing, but then I thought: "if they don't get any people involved in this they will stop doing it"

I ran it for 30 minutes, not more. But I will leave it overnight to make sure it is ok. I did not notice any particular difference in temp between both transistors. My guess on why it burnt is that the fan stucked because of dirt and the transistor that got burnt is the one that was ON in that particular position. The motor was quite hard to spin by hand before cleaning and lubricating it.

Just for fun, I got to the task of repair the motor. So, first thing I noticed is that it is labeled as a brushless DC motor, but had only two connections. So I thought that this little motor had to have some electronics packed inside. Also, depending on which position the rotor was at, it started or not. My thought then was that one of the two driving circuitry had to be bad. I took it appart and sure enough, one of the two transistors was (literally) melted, and just to make my task easier it was also desoldered! That thing really got hot when it melted! The transistors are quite standard, NPN Darlington TIP 112. This exact model is not super common now, but the TIP 122 has the same characteristics except higher collector current. So I replaced the blown one with a TIP 122. I put everything back together, tested, and worked like a charm. For sure not super useful information in this day and age, but I thought it would be fun sharing.

Lol... I don't want to start piling up squawks, so I want to get this fixed. I already have quite a few to work on from surprises after prebuy inspection and the first annual. I'm working with the local shop to get an estimate on this.

Thanks! I'm not sure what do you refer regarding horizontal alignment. Next time I'll double check the baffling to see if I understand what the horizontal alignment should be.

Hey, thanks for the feedback. I did find in the IPC the section (27-40-02) but did not find anything regarding the flap and trim position indicator in the SMM. Where is it specifically? I thought that the numbers in the IPC and SMM would match but if I go to 27-40 in the SMM it talks about rigging the flap itself but says nothing about the position indicator.

Last Wedensday I was going around after a not so good landing (as I'm still getting used to landing my Mooney I always go around after the first bounce) and cleaning the airplane when, to my surprise, the flap position indicator was not longer visible. It was a bit distracting for a few seconds, but then I just look through the window, I saw the flaps were up, and disregard the indicator, did a lap in the pattern and come back and landed uneventfully. The flaps operator withou issue, so this seems to be related to the flap indicator only. I looked with a flashlight and it seems that the transparent tube that has the black mark in the tip is not longer there. I read something that I can get to this through the belly (I have the a one piece belly mod), my question is how difficult is this to fix? I'm evualating doing this myself or take it to the shop that is in my home airport.

Something like this? I used the screw that hold the prop deice line, I don´t like the idea of a washer that is "lose" with all the vibration going on in the engine.

Sorry to bring back to life an old thread. Is it possible to get the pictures? The ones from the original post are gone. I'm having issues with cylinder #3 temperatures and this might help.

Great airmanship and outcome! Glad everything turned out good. How many hours on the muffler?

After adding the missing baffle, the Cyl #1 is now the hottest, being at 420F during climb. Without the baffle, the hottest is #3 at 410F. That's why I'm thinking of removing the baffle that I've just added.