redbaron1982

Great airmanship and outcome! Glad everything turned out good. How many hours on the muffler?

After adding the missing baffle, the Cyl #1 is now the hottest, being at 420F during climb. Without the baffle, the hottest is #3 at 410F. That's why I'm thinking of removing the baffle that I've just added.

Without the baffle #1 is < 400F and #3 is around 410F. With the baffle #1 is around 420F and #3 is <400F. So I think it's worse with the baffle. I could cut the baffle so I get something in between... but doesn't look like something "legal" to do...

I would love to have those temps in my J. Yesterday I went flying (KSGR <-> KHYI). During the climb, I was seeing 420F CHT in Cyl #1. This flight was after adding the missing piece of baffle in front of Cyl #1, now Cyl #3 improved, but Cyl #1 got much worse. This is the data from my flight: https://apps.savvyaviation.com/flights/shared/flight/7210566/ba7a9b2d-3f3e-448f-84f7-33046b1a7e5c First leg (KSGR -> KHYI) was flying at 8k (DA 10.5k), the way back was at 5k ft (DA 7.5k).

Trying to get back the post to my initial questions... What do you guys think on pulling out an the cooling hoses and leaving only two for the equipments that do have a port for them? (KC192 and KX155).

I'm also interested on knowing about this.

I want to give my KC 192 a chance because it's a 1985 unit that everybody told me that is quite reliable. It's a -02 that I think have still some chances of being repaired.

I'm ok with Unions, as long as they are not imposed on the employees. Meaning if I work in a job that has a Union I should be free to choose to be part of it or not. And they are not imposed on the employers either. So true free market unions. If unions start "representing" the lazy rather than the hard-working people, then the hard-working people would leave the union, removing funding, and would eventually die. If hard-working people get abused, they should be free to organize themselves into a union and have stronger representation and litigation power against the employer.

Yes, I saw those. I was thinking that maybe there are some alternative ones that I can get new that have better performance.

Hey, I'm chasing down an issue with my KFC 150, which seems specifically related to the KC 192 and temperature-related. Yesterday I checked the avionics fan and is dead, plus there are several hoses that are disconnected. I have a few questions: Is the Cyclone 21 a good replacement for my avionics fan? What I currently have is a KA 33 that is mounted on top of the front wheel well. Which equipment needs a hose attached to the back? I have a GNS430, an (obsolete) MX20, a KMA 24, Appareo Transponder, the KFC 150, a KX 155, GI 275 EIS, and the regular steam gauges (plus radar altimeter and storm scope). From what I've checked only the KFC 150 and KX 155 have ports for cooling on the back. Does it make sense to leave some hoses blowing air to the back of equipment that doesn't have a port to connect a cooling hose? Have any of you experienced KFC 150 malfunction due to an INOP avionics FAN? Thanks! Ernesto.

What would you use to seal the gaps between the oil governor line? RTV? I have a few gaps in the front of the engine between the baffle and the engine itself. This how it looks now around the starter and alternator. I can see sealing the gap between the baffle and the starter, but with the alternator I'm not sure, there doesn´t seem to be a huge gap between the baffle and the alternator, and any attempt to reduce that gap it seems that is going to reduce air around the alternator.

I'm going to give this a try, first is in the IPC, so it is supposed to be there. Second, it's cheap (McFarlane has this for 20usd I think). Third, the issue I'm having is with Cyl #3, and my flow dynamics master (just kidding) tells me that this part missing allows air to escape to the lower side through the front of Cyl #1, preventing this air from reaching Cyl #3. Cyl #1 and #3 are consistently 20F hotter than 2 and 4 in my case. If it makes things worse, I can always take it out.

Thanks! Now I see, and sorry for getting mixed Cyl #2 with Cyl #1. I was looking at the wrong picture. What I will do tomorrow is go and check every single part of the baffle to make sure they are there, and order whatever is missing.

At what altitude/OAT? My last flights, at 6000FT or 8000FT here in Houston I was seeing 27C to 23C OAT. Not even close to ISA.

Regarding the baffle missing, do you mean near the intake for the hot cabin air, next to the induction filter? I haven't completed that part yet, but what was there was a baffle seal, and is something that I will complete tomorrow. The part you say is missing is this or is an actual baffle (aluminum sheet) that is missing?

I need to go either way too rich or very lean to keep temps < 400F in cruise with cowl flaps trailing. Anyway, the baffling was not in the best condition, so my idea is to get that in the best shape possible, so if temps are still high I will look somewhere else.

380/400 is in cruise on a hot Texas day, at 6000 ft / 25C OAT. The blue tape is covering the air intake filter, I didn´t want to get any debries there while working. Of course in my list of things to do when the job is finished. I did the same for the oil cooler when I was removing the old rivets, but that one is already removed.

I'm working on improving the cooling of my M20J. Engine is running between 380F and 400F on the hottest cyl (#3) and this is even with cowl flaps trailing. So now I removed all the seals I had and I'm installing CowlSaver from McFarlane. I finished the upper half of it, tomorrow I expect to finish the remaining seals (the ones that are in the front, under the air inlets. From the pictures I'm sharing can you guys give me your feedback? I'm working with an AP but extra eyes is always good to make sure we are not missing anything. I do have to do a few cuts in the seals on the back of the engine to make it stay flat agains the cowling. My main doubt is on the front of the engine, the seal is not getting all the way to the front of the cowling. This was the case with the seals I removed, and now it's the same. Is that normal? I'm refering to this specific picture:

I would recommend, if you haven´t done so already, to hire Savvy Maintenance service. They do not do maintenance, they assist you in troubleshooting, finding mechanics and handling the communication with them. And what's even better, and if you are going to be an owner involved in your aircraft maintenance (which you should be), you will learn a lot from them. I know I will infuriate some of the fundamentalist of Don Maxwell, but there are many horror stories with his shop too. So no mechanic is perfect, much less a shop. I have had a very bad experience with Maxwell (a job that was estimated by Don himself to cost 15k and take 3 weeks ended up costing 35k and taking 10 months, without discussing with me any change of the estimate, I was kept in the dark until the moment they finished the work, when they produced an invoice more than 2x the original estimate). Maybe as your dad is an old friend of him, then you're in the group of people that are given special treatment, but just don´t blindly trust any shop.

Mine has been sitting in Testing status for a couple of days now.... it funny because it gives a message saying "check again tonight or tomorrow morning" like if the results should be quickly available, but they aren't.

I was going to start a thread asking what KIAS you guys use for normal climb (>1000FT AGL). Is doing 110kt something common? What VS do you see climbing at 110kt? I'm talking M20J, which should be similar to a M20F, no?

What about running 26/26 for an hour? I understand that the IO-360 that we have in our M20J does not have a power setting that cannot be used constantly, correct? As long as CHT are below 400F there shouldn't be much to worry, am I correct?

I was getting anxious because my sample says "unpacked" since June 29th and no updates... so I guess I need to forget about it for some weeks.

Thanks. Yes, actually is something that I was thinking to do but had no idea what was the name of those plugs. Now I know and I will get some to cover the end of the quick drain.

Is now better?