redbaron1982

Reading this, I understand that there is some agreement that switching to G100UL could generate issues like the ones reported here. This statement says, "Hey, the same happened when we switched to 100LL". Acknowledging that switching from 100LL to G100UL could make worse some already bad conditions of seals/paint, especially in wet-wing airplanes, would be a good starting point.

The main thing I dislike about GAMI/George is that they always talk from this perspective: "We know everything; everyone else that doesn't say the same thing we do is wrong." Not pursuing ASTM is one example of such an attitude; not investigating the issues starting to arise is another. They keep repeating the tests they did in the lab about paint and disregard what people are complaining about. I value all the effort, investment, and time they put into this. And I believe we will have many benefits from switching to UL, not only environmental but maintenance as well.

That makes sense. I'm going to take a look the next time I remove the cowling, I don't recall seeing one in my Mooney, but I haven't look for it either.

I always use the tube on the front wheel where the tow bar goes. I'm quite confident that it has continuity with the airframe. I do see how the exhaust could not be a good idea. It's bolted to the engine, but then the engine has the mounting bushings that are rubber... and the whole engine has no continuity with the airframe, no?

Agreed 100%. I'm not sure how many shot fields there are where you can (and/or would be smart to) shoot an ILS down to minimums.

Do you know who is my instructor? I can't think of another way you made that statement...

Not good

Do you guys use full flap when landing on IMC? My CFI used to suggest approaching with landing flaps instead of full.

The GAMI article is not clear, as it mentions staining, and it compares it with the blue stains you can get from 100LL. But it does look like GAMI knows more about what they are sharing, and the staining could be paint damage. 100LL seems to be 100% safe on paint. I have a very small leak on the LH sump for years, it is not dripping or anything, it is just staining. A couple of weeks ago I decided to see if I could clean it up, and all the staining was easily removed, leaving the paint in perfect conditions.

Is there any evidence of this or is it just suppositions?

I know many will have a lot to say, but it sounds fishy that after so many years of testing, one person has all this damage in just one week.

Is this the first time with a constant-speed prop airplane? If so, the manifold pressure in a NA (normally aspirated) engine can never be higher than the atmospheric pressure at the altitude the airplane is flying. So, on a standard day (ISA 15C 29.92inHG), if WOT (wide open throttle), you would get ~29.9 at sea level, and drop 1" every 1000ft of altitude. So, lets say you are flying at a density altitude of 11kft, then, WOT, you won't have more than ~30-11=19inHg.

Lycoming filler neck removal tool should be called! My experience is that if the dipstick is too tight, you will also unscrew the filler neck when removing it.

Looking at ADSB Exchange there was flight yesterday which was at 11k. So 19 inches sounds about right.

It is usually better to do the oil analysis at regular intervals, as otherwise, you need to account for how many hours did you run the engine between oil changes. Your oil volume is always the same, let's say 6qt. The amount of metals will increase as you fly. So, ppm-wise, you will see twice as many metals in the oil after 20 hours vs. 10 hours of flight time.

Great job on not stalling the airplane and flying it all the way to the crash! It doesn't look like he is coming with full flaps, I'm not judging, just asking to learn: is not a good idea to always approach a forced landing with full flaps to go as slow as possible?

I wish there was a 12v version... my M20J has TKS and the light is very dim...

I removed the "unapproved" doubler and I think I know why they put it, in a previous modification they didn't properly removed the rivets and one hole in particular was enlarged quite a bit. I'm going to use a larger diameter rivet there and so I don´t have to reinstall that doubler. Another side question: what do you guys think on spraying some white paint in the inner part of the cowling... I think it would make things look nicer and also make more evident any oil leak. Is there anything I should be aware if I do this?

I found one new for $80 on eBay... so I ordered that one. I don´t think it would get much cheaper than that if I got a shop to fabricate it.

That SB is for the cowl flaps, the doubler I'm referring to is on the engine cowling. I can't find any reference to that in the IPC.

Today while doing my preflight inspection I noticed that the RH cowl flap was wiggling more than normal. I removed the engine cowling to find that one of the hinges was broken. I've attached a picture for reference. Is there any place where I can get this for a reasonable price? I found one on eBay for $300, but I'm sure it is much cheaper to fabricate it. If I decide to fabricate the part, is there a place I could get the drawing? Do you guys know any shop that could fabricate it? I'm located in Houston. If I looked correctly in the IPC, I'm looking for PN 650177-502. One side question, I noticed I have some doublers installed on top of the retainer (see attached picture). I cannot find this in the IPC. Is this something I should remove? There seems to be some interference between this doubler and a river in the muffler.

Fenix is one of the best flashlights, I have 3 and I'm very happy with them. One is a headlamp with red light mode. The only downside with the version I have is that to turn it on in red mode, you get a brief 1s period of white light (although you can set it to be in the lowest intensity level). I think they have fixed that in the latest versions. The one I have is this: https://fenix-store.com/collections/with-red-light/products/fenix-hm61r-v2-rechargeable-headlamp It has 100 hours of battery life in red mode, and the batteries are the standard 18650 Li-ion. Oh, some of them have a magnet in the cap, but it is very easy to remove it. I removed mine just to avoid any interference with the magnetic compass.

I was going to say the same, is that bulge exfoliation corrosion? I hope it is not that and you can repair it.... I went through this pain shortly after I bought my Mooney, it was a 25k repair... and that was in the aft stub spar, not the main spar.

Also opens the possibility to use more modern, synthetic oils, AFAIK. My main concern is about monopoly... if by an EPA determination, LL is banned, and we only have G100UL we are not going to be in a good position.

Commie California is coming after GA