Utah20Gflyer

I don't think counterweight replacement requires any reskinning. It is riveted to the corner of the elevator. I believe it can be removed and replaced quite easily provided you can get a replacement part.

It would seem an over reach to ground planes where no corrosion was evident. That would be like grounding all aircraft because the spar could be corroded. If you have a corrosion issue then deal with it, if you don't then monitor the situation on occasion and proceed as normal.

My EI tach is on the far right of my panel and so far no issues reading it.

I replaced my tach last year with the Electronics International and like it. It has been very accurate and reliable although I would agree it isn't the slickest looking instrument around.

Is your rudder straight when the nose wheel is straight?

If you can find the more modern yokes you get the added benefit of getting rid of the 500 hour AD on the older control shafts.

I'd say first thing to check is make sure the nut and bolt holding the assembly together is tightened down appropriately. Then on jacks if tightening everything hasn't solved the issue then you should be able to see if the wear is top and bottom wear or side to side wear between the bolt and bushing. Each problem has its own solution.

I see CHT numbers in the 200s during runup and Taxi, high 300s do seem very suspect. Verifying it isn't an indication issue is probably the first step.

The wing leveler and aileron trim system are INOP in my plane. I disagree with the previous owner that the aircraft needs aileron trim so although I will likely fix it at some point or remove it just cause I like everything to work but it's just not a priority at the moment. I'm looking at installing a modern auto pilot and don't think the effort to fix the wing leveler is going to be worth the year I would use it. I don't think I am the problem. As time progresses my airplane gets better and better. For me that seems acceptable. Perfection is sometimes the enemy of the good. Ultimately it's my plane so I'll do with it what I want. Yeah it's sad when people neglect airplanes but it's their property not yours. If you care so much then buy all these airplanes you don't think aren't being maintained well enough and maintain them yourself to your exceptional standard. If you don't then you have failed, LoL.

I have one of those systems installed as aileron trim but it's INOP at the moment so I can't comment on it's efficacy or utility. Personally I don't see a great need for it which is why I haven't dived into figuring out what's going on with it. It's on the list but very low priority.

It only takes a very small reduction in diameter for things to start rubbing. Having replaced my rollers and seen the result I can promise you that if your seat isn't rolling smoothly replacing rollers will fix the issue. The difference between my old rollers and the new ones was only a hundreth of and inch or two. Basically a very shallow groove had been worn in the middle of the roller. A set of 8 rollers cost me 80 bucks from Lasar and I swapped them myself in less than one hour start to finish.

Good idea!

I’d be laughing to except this happened to me. I flew up to Logan Utah with my wife for her friends wedding. Everything is wrapped up and we get back to the plane and no key (this is before I had extras made). We went and grabbed the crew car again and retraced out steps, eventually we ended up at a grocery store I had stopped at and they had it at customer service. Apparently it had fallen out of my pocket when I took my wallet out to pay. That was a big relief but next on the to do list was getting 3 extra keys made. Now I keep one in my flight bag, one in my car, one on my key ring with all my other keys and one at home. Never again!

I addressed this issue at my last annual. I used a brass bristle brush and maybe wd40 (can’t remember for sure, but I use wd40 for cleaning a lot). Unfortunately I did remove a fair amount of chrome plating in the effort but it did look better after than before. So my results were similar to yours. Has anyone ever powder coated the handle instead of chroming?

At the price point you are talking about corrosion is the only real deal killer. Anything else can be made up with the price differential between what you might normally pay and what your are paying. The biggest issue with training in a Mooney is insurance. But that is also going to be a issue with a C210. I honestly would be surprised if an insurance company would green light a student pilot to solo in a C210. Keep in mind a rental plane will have insurance to cover the owner but not you. Non owned aircraft insurance is generally in order to cover your potential liability. In the case of an accident it’s highly likely an insurance company will come after you for the full value of the claim. Between the two I would suspect a Mooney would be easier to insure than a 210. I would investigate the insurance situation before purchasing.

In my 1968 M20G my headrest tubes are 1/2 inch diameter. When I bought my plane the two in the back were missing so I made new ones from 1/2 inch aluminum tubing and a tubing bender. The padded headrests slip over top of the tubing.

I did a trip last summer from Utah to Washington State, going up I averaged 175 knots ground speed and topped out at 185 knots. Coming back a couple days later the winds were still coming from the south and I was doing 115 to 120 knots most of the way back. The winds giveth and the winds taketh away... fortunately when I crossed the Utah border the winds changed and I jumped up to 150 knots for the last leg. I couldn't imagine trying to do that in a Cessna 150. You'd be jealously watching the highway traffic pass you.

It might be because it's much easier to add fuel than remove it if it turns out you need extra weight capacity on your next flight.

I second no lube and instead replace your seat rollers. I did mine last annual and the seats slide as smoothly as I could imagine.

I'd love to have more screen but went with a mini because it's the "correct" size for a Mooney yoke. I know others have done it though so sorry I am not any help. The difficulty is getting the correct angle without interference with or obscuration of other things. Seems like you have to space it higher than the yoke by maybe 2-3 inches to get it right.

I had a bunch of extra keys made up at Home Depot.

I listened to the whole thing and felt similarly, I get it would be awkward to fly with the passenger side yoke but you just got to make due with what you have. Also you can often just fly with the rudders since we have a strong interconnect between the rudder and ailerons. My main thought was "What the hell is going on with this plane?" We got yokes coming off, gear that won't come down properly and a seat that won't lock into position. Was this a plane on a ferry permit? I'm also surprised if this was a J model, I had assumed it was an older Mooney that had the AD on the control shaft and the shaft had come apart. If it really is a J model that's a 2x WTF

My 68 G model has a clamp on one exhaust, I think #4. It came up during my annual because the IA commented it didn't look right. Ultimately we decided since it wasn't causing a problem and there were no leaks we would leave it be. Sounds like it's supposed to be there? I have the O 360 A1D engine.

Your plastic interior parts are ABS plastic so ABS pipe glue like you find at home Depot used in conjunction with fiberglass tape works well to affect repairs. I had some badly stained carpets that I would say were 2/10. I bought a carpet dye kit off Amazon and dyed my carpets after a very thorough cleaning. I think I brought them up to maybe a 6/10. Not perfect but a huge improvement, and the cost was only 15 or 20 dollars.

I didn't renew recently, I don't like the woke/PC stuff they've been getting into. I expect an aviation organization to be about aviation and not pushing social revolution.