Utah20Gflyer

Since you did the bottom end 1000 hours ago I would say do cylinders rather than a complete overhaul. You could easily get another 1000-2000 hours out of the engine if nothing crazy happens and since it isn't urgent I would get an appointment setup with a specialized engine shop and have them ready with the parts and hopefully you can get a quick turn around on the work. Remember though, two cylinders at the same time is major engine work and needs to be done very carefully by someone who does it all the time. You can loose tension on your main bearings if not done correctly and end up with a fubar engine or worse. See Mike Busch's podcast on the dangers of cylinder work for a more complete picture of what I am talking about. In the end though it's your money, so what you prefer is the right answer.

I believe it's lockhaven that overhauls those

I am dealing with this issue right now. I would say first disconnect the wires from the sender, the gauge should read full hot. Connect the two wires together and the gauge should read low. So basically no continuity should read high, complete continuity should read low. The sender is supposed to vary continuity between those two extremes to tell you how hot the oil is. That should give you some idea whether it is the sender or the gauge. In my case it was some loose wires making the gauge read full hot.

I just bought a fabric one from LASAR. It was 50 or 60 dollars. It looks ok but as I haven’t installed it yet I can’t comment on fit and function yet.

I recently had the same issue although it would generally finally crank over after a couple tries. I'm currently in the process of replacing it with the skytec starter. Like others said it is the bendix gear. Bruces covers are excellent, I have a fuselage cover and a tail cover so far and are very happy with them. Might be buying a cowling cover soon for the winter.

I also have a G model Mooney. I only use carb heat when my JPI engine monitor indicates carb temperature is close to freezing. If you don't have Carb temp available I am not sure what the correct answer would be.

I am in the process of trying to fabricate some parts for my plane by building a thermoforming vacuum table and forming sheets of textured ABS sheets into the wanted parts. It might be possible to do the same with your panel overlay by using the old panel as the form and forming 1/16 inch thick ABS plastic over it. Maybe too much work but thought I would throw it out there as a possibility.

When I bought my G model I asked the insurance company (Avemco) if I could count previous C and J time to my 10 hours transition and they said no, it had to be in my specific airplane. I didn't drill down on it but it sounded like even time in another G wouldn't count. They wanted 10 hours dual in my plane. I am fairly low time which may have been a factor.

Thanks, that helps a bunch, I'll take a look in that area tomorrow and see what's there now and the parts I have and see if it makes sense.

Does anyone happen to have a picture of the installed trim motor? I have a plane with everything ready to go with the exception of the motor being installed and power wire connected. Only thing is the power wire is ran to the manual trim wheel location rather than the tail. Are things different for my 68 g model or did the wire get ran to the wrong place? Thanks for any help!

Maybe consider the RG 35AXC if they are in stock, it's a drop in replacement but more cranking amps, also a little more money. I just put one in my Mooney.

Hi Alan, I'd like to purchase this steering horn if it's still available and applicable to a M20G, the label on it is a little hard to read but it looks like it say M20a thru M20G. Thanks, Craig

Thanks!

And that is why you don't act rashly and start tearing things a part right away. You may still want to send the filter element to Blackstone and have them analyze where the metal in the filter is from. Had the reports not been mixed up I would have said fly the 30 hours.

Do you still have this steering horn? Looks like it's the same as the one on my 1968 G model but could you confirm it the same one? Thanks, Craig

I haven’t done a checkride in my Mooney yet but did 10 hours of transition training with no brakes for the instructor. I guess I could see why a DPE might not like the combination of Private Pilot candidate, a Mooney and no brakes but if the person can’t be trusted to use the brakes then you probably shouldn’t be flying with them in the first place. Most of the ways you die in an airplane don’t involve the brakes.

This plane has had a bunch on money spent on mods and cosmetics. Which if they are of the variety you would want to do yourself may make the plane more valuable to you. The engine may run well past tbo, especially with new cylinders but that doesn't increase the value any in my mind. You should factor in major engine work soon because that could be a real possibility. The avionics are meh, not terrible, not great. I guess I would say if aesthetics are your primary goal then this may be a good plane for you. If you are primarily concerned with overall value - dollars spent for functionality I'd say it doesn't fit that bill very well. You could get an equally functional F model mooney for 75-80k that just isn't as pretty. So if you want to spend an extra 30k for pretty that's ok, just realize that is what you are doing.

Check www.aeromotorsllc.com, they have a good rep for rebuilding fuel pumps for a reasonable price. Also supposedly a quick turn around.

The Garmin gps units are only designed to import information from other Garmin sources as stated above. Although the cost is a real bummer if you really want that functionality the 345 is the obvious choice. On a side note the Garmin GI 275s will also display the traffic and weather information from the 345. They are a nice upgrade from the G5’s. Unfortunately I have Uavionix and ForeFlight sentry for ADSB so no such functionality for me, although I do still get terrain which is cool.

If you want to spend the least money possible to become compliant a Uavionix wing or tail beacon will hands down be the best option at maybe 3k, If you want to spend 13k or more the Garmin 375 gps/transponder is probably the next least expensive option with WAAS gps and ads in/out. Keep in mind though you will likely need a new cdi or HSI to display the nav data from it, that will run you minimum another 2.5k for a 106b although in my case I went with a GI 275 HSI because it’s what I wanted. My Garmin 355 and GI 275 ran just over 16k installed

Looks like it took just shy of 4 weeks, pretty happy with the turn around. Although they did still send me 4 senders but charged for 2 so looks like I’ll have to mail 2 back to them. thanks again everyone!

Next week would be 4 weeks for me. Fingers crossed that happens so I can get my annual wrapped up in a reasonable time frame.

Like mentioned in the previous post we don't know what radio is at issue but if it's a modern Garmin radio sidetone volume is an adjustable setting. Takes 5 min to adjust it. Other radios may be similar. If it is a hardware issue I would have a clue where to start.

I haven't received them yet but it's been about three weeks and I just paid for them today. My understanding is they don't bill for them until they are complete so I'm hoping they will ship any day now. Hopefully that is the case as my plane is in annual now and I'm hoping it won't delay things. Did you already get invoiced? If so how long ago? Originally I was quoted the 10th of November for a ship date. Hoping they under promised and are going to over deliver??

I have no input as to what is normal as I am a new owner but my plane just went in for annual and I will definitely have them check this area on my plane for cleanliness and lubrication. What ever is normal that chain could be better.