Will.iam

Is that 15” mp limitation where the gear horn sounds or a lycoming limitation? And if truly 15” is a limitation, how do you flare to land? Or what about taxiing? and if it is the limitation then just lean very LOP and the power will drop off and you are still above 15” once you are slow enough to drop gear then you could richen backup. I have trained myself through repetition to always on go-around push knobs in from right to left thus full mixture full prop rpm then full throttle. As 99% of the time I’m landing while still LOP and engine is already leaned out for taxi. Why run overly rich for that 1% chance go-around? And if by chance you did push the throttle in before the mixture, the coughing and sputtering with lack of power will quickly remind you to push in the mixture knob no different than on initial takeoff if you forget after taxiing lean.

Paved.

I live at an airpark that the runway is only 2600ft. I take-off max weight both winter and summer. I run the charts in the summer to verify I’m still under 2500ft. We have a bump at 2000ft down the runway and i have yet to hit that before I’m airborne. The only issue i have is my insurance would be cheaper if the runway was 3000ft but that’s not going to happen anytime soon. My neighbors M20R easily gets off early so does the m20J. In fact i think my M20K is the biggest runway hog of all the mooney fleet but that’s my personal opinion.

Lights timed at 30mph can be made at 60mph too. Just saying.

Use 2200 rpm and air will not drive the motor at 15”MP once slow to 80kias you can push the prop back forward for preparation of a go-around.

I have the 140 kias max speed for extension on my M20K and yet never lower the gear at speeds higher than 100kias and routinely slow to 80 kias before gear extension as the slower you go the less wear and tear put on the gear motor, linkages and gears. I don’t wait until the last second and slam on my brakes in my car the same reason. Plan better. Not worth the additional mx cost for the few minutes you might gain waiting til the last second.

I can confirm my turbo exhaust is non conductive. I will be using the tiedowns or bolt on nose gear from now on. Just saw a mooney at KDUA at the fuel pump and he was using the exhaust pipe as well told him about the ohm meter not giving as good a ground off the exhaust pipe as the tiedowns. Seems a lot of people use the exhaust without knowing.

After flying neighbors ovation with a vernier throttle, I wouldn’t have it on my plane. I much prefer the push pull. Even my neighbors would like to get a push pull and they have been flying the ovation for over a year. Highly recommend you go fly a mooney with vernier throttle to see if you like it or not, especially in the pattern.

Actually people in the back make it easier as i don’t have to put in so much nose up and a J FEC are less nose up as well. My K with the turbo and 2 more cylinders out front makes it almost full nose up with flaps by myself. In fact a couple of jugs of water in the baggage compartment makes a world of difference, one of the big reasons i want to go with the MT prop as that’s 11 lbs off the nose and would help greatly in the trim dept.

Yes true statement and verified myself. You can slow the RPM’s to capture more of that peak pressure closer to the optimal 18 degrees past TDC but the slower prop RPM’s, although more efficient, does not offset the less power pulses per minute and thus a slower over all speed. My chart’s interesting enough do not show a 78% power setting for 2200 rpm. Only 2300 to 2700. So when I’m pushing high power LOP (equal or greater than 78%) i do not go lower than 2300. When I’m just putting around or going for a hamburger run, I’ll be somewhere below 65% and use 2200 for maximize fuel economy over speed.

Thanks for the video. I’m wondering why the exhaust is not more grounded. What does it have that is restricting electron flow? Out of curiosity now i have to go ohm my exhaust as I’m curious if a turbo exhaust is any better grounded than a normal aspirated exhaust. I used to use my tow tube on the front landing gear but was afraid it was damaging the paint on the outside part of the tube. Once verified my tie-downs are grounded i guess tgat will be the new attach point for me.

Pee is more corrosive than oil or lead.

Don’t know and my flap switch doesn’t have a detent for takeoff flaps i wish it did. It’s an off setting in the middle. Up goes full flaps up and down is spring loaded to go back to the middle where it is off again. The first time i went around from flaps full i selected the up position and forgot it doesn’t spring back to the middle so it retracted the flap from full to up and i had a whole lot of nose up that i had to put alot of force on the yoke to counter. It was a quick lesson to either momentarily put the switch in the up position and tgen quickly back to middle position to stop them so i could catch up on trim or use partial power and as the trim removes pressure add more power or retract more flaps. Full to about half is way bigger a trim change than 10 degrees to up that is for sure.

You can buy off karma, just send $100 to MAPA and no karma will be given. In fact maybe good karma given for an extra $100!

Well if you have run 80 gallons worth of g100ul that would be a significant data point as in your tanks have not started leaking and if you did have a leak to what extent the paint gets removed/destroyed.

well i see all the other planes have their tails on backwards as a trick to try and make their airplane look like it’s going fast because in reality they are not, like the 60’s fin tail cars, But i grew up in a mooney and only learned of these slower less efficient other airplanes when i went to get my private pilots license cause dad wasn’t going to let me learn how to land in the mooney.

Does yours have the ram air scoop on the front of the cowl? That’s good for an inch or 2 because the air doesn’t have to go through the filter and pipe bends which lowers the MP by an inch or so from ambient pressure but it’s unfiltered air going into the engine so only use it at cruise altitude. I. E. Not on the ground or when there is dirt in the air.

Rats, I’m in the same situation except my annual is not til February. Was really hoping it would be an easy fix. Hope you find a place that has the part. I will be needing one soon as well.

I use weathermap+ for years! Love that it was a ONE TIME PURCHASE and doesn’t milk you dry with monthly subscription fees. Another app i like is weatherspork it’s weather for skew-t dummies as it will show cloud layers and freezing layer visually per altitude along your route and project it 3 days out. Unfortunately it does have a monthly fee though. You do get a 2 week free trial so there is that.

Can someone post in the download section or send me personally their G-1000 checklist.ace file for an M20R? I accidentally formatted the checklist card and lost the file. There used to be a file in tge download section i think at one time but it’s either no longer there or i can’t find it. Thanks.

Putting a quart of MMO right before warming up the oil with a quick flight will make it drain quicker. I was under the assumption that running the engine made sure all the gunk was mixed up in the oil suspended and not settled out in the bottom of the oil pan but maybe an OWT. I start the oil drain and leave it draining for a day or 2 so most if not all the oil is out of the engine with it thinned out. Also much easier to remove that oil filter after the engine and oil filter have cooled down than when it’s hot. I do add mouse milk to the turbo while it’s still hot to help the penetrating oil wick in better.

I’m up for it but need like a week’s notice as my schedule changes. Alot.

Thanks. I figured both fuel caps off and drain plug removed with a shop vac blowing air through the wing would expedite evaporation of any fuel that might still be left in the tanks after the drain. Outside of course with a long shop vac hose to the tank. Don’t want the electric motor of the vac lighting off fuel vapors.

Was just curious why you can not weigh the airplane empty and then just mathematically add the 3 gallons of unusable fuel to make the empty weight?

Ok you really need to read mike busch books about maintenance and engines. One of the quotes i heard him say is the first 500 hours and last 500 hours are free. By that he means the resale value doesn’t really change as people prefer and put a premium on an engine in the 500 to 1000 hours range. That is because a new engine with no hours on it is statistically more likely to fail than an engine at TBO so people want to see about 500 hours on the engine to feel comfortable that it was put together correctly. Still does not mean it will not fail at 501 hours but the probability goes down with a few hundred hours on the engine. Then there are the people worried at the other end of the spectrum flying past TBO and since for the longest time even now there are people that just know at TBO + xxx the engine will fail. Mike Busch with his years of data and experience pushed his engine 200% plus past TBO with no engine failure. Look at all that free time! He got literally a free extra engine as his went double the normal TBO and saved a huge amount of money. If you base your engine on condition instead of an arbitrary number and let the engine tell you when it’s time to overhaul, you might get lucky or you might have to overhaul sooner but rarely is the case that an engine fails without giving warning signs before the impending doom.