M Terry

in my f model I had a similar problem with the Ram air. Mine works by moving the lever connected directly to the ram air "over center" so that outside pressure holds it closed rather than pushing it open. It may be as simple as loosening the nut on the end of the cable and moving it to where it goes over center when the control arm is moved to the closed position

found an STL file to 3D print this part https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4340751

Avare is a free EFB for android, Has W&B. I like it

I made my own

Mine is tucked between the two rear seat cushons

I had a similar issue, found fuel at the inboard senders in front of the rear seat. I just gave each of the screws a quarter turn and the smell went away

Andy at the air frame company in Woodland (a very short hop from Placerville) cleaned up the mess that Lasar left behind when they bugged out of California. He is an expert on Mooneys and I think he does pre-buys. Highly recommended. andy@airframe.company

If your ram air is like mine, the cable is easy to adjust. May need to disconnect a light to reach it. Just get is so it goes over center when closed

I have this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B28HRSBP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 works great.

Strange happenings with the electrical bits of my 69 M20F Some times when I do my preflight, the stall warning fails, but if I go back and cycle the master switch, it works again. The pilot side PTT failed while on a flight, I had to switch my headset to the copilot side and reach over to activate the mic. When back at the hanger I tried tracing the wire to find the fault, but never did. I didn't fix anything but the next time I went to use the plane it had fixed itself. The transponder shows antenna fault, but if I push on the face or turn it off then on it starts working again. The electric trim failed (clicks but does not roll). This week the GNS530 failed (powers up but does not acquire satellites or send or receive via the radio. Does anyone have an Idea of a single point of failure that could tie all these glitches together? thanks

Slip for airspeed? My F has speed brakes,,, that are broken and I'm too cheap to send them back for repair. Slipping for altitude is easy, did that plenty with my CFI, but I can find very little written about using a slip to loose airspeed, in lieu of the speed brakes. At what speed can I enter a level flight slip and not put too much stress on the airframe?

I still have all these removed avionics. If any thing I send you turns out to be a dud I'll take it back.

Yes. The "closed " position has a 1/4 inch gap between the fuselage an the trailing edge of the cowl flap

Finally got it working. A friend who is a machinists made a replacement for the worn out pin/lever. Our A&P approved the part and the re installation. After fooling around with the rigging it over centers in the closed position and stays closed in cruise flight. I think it gets us about 2 knots in level flight

If yours is like mine, the mechanism has to go "over center" in order to stay closed while in flight.

Yes it was a roll pin, rather than a "split pin" I just didn't know the proper name for it. I like the weld and re-drill idea

here are images showing the slop in the connection. the first shows how far the cable and inner lever can push the outer lever and rod. the second is how far it would go if firmly connected to the hole, if the hole was oriented correctly, to the over center poistion

Update. Was working on getting the cable out to send to Mcfarlane when we came to understand how the linkage really works. The cable pushes and pulls on a lever inside the cockpit, which is directly connected to a shaft to a similar lever in the engine compartment, which is in turn connected to the rod that moves the cowl flap mechanism. It is that second lever that is meant to go to an "over center" position and hold the cowl flaps closed. If one reaches in there you can move the lever to the over center position, but even pushed all the way to the stop, the inner lever cant make it go far enough. The two levers are held together by a split steel pin, secured with safety wire. The flaw lies in the slop present between the two levers. The hole through the shaft was enlarged by years of use. When we dug through the documentation from our last annual, it turns out they took it out, made note of the flaw and put it back in. Now the trick will be finding some machinist to make me an owner provided part to replace it

I made a device for this purpose out of a 12v aquarium bubbler ( i think it was meant for use in bait wells of fishing boats) and a plastic jug full of desiccant. The motor draws air from the engine vent tube and pushes into the bottom of the jug. It flows through the desiccant granules and out a hose which goes into the oil dipstick hole. Runs off some old BB600 nicad aircraft batteries that are charged by a small panel on the roof of the hangar.Runs intermittently controlled by a timer. You need to seal the case of the pump and then drill a hole in it to get it to draw from the hose. the granules change color after a few weeks in use. put them in the crock pot for a few hours and they are ready to be put back in the jug. A humidity meter on the outside and one inside the jug demonstrates the difference in humidity. I used left over suction tubing from the hospital, hot glue and duct tape.

I see it, Yours is on the passenger side of the throttle quadrant, Mine is on the pilot side next to the ram air lever. I'm going to look again at how it is rigged, perhaps adjusting the length of the arms to the doors and the length to the cable adjustment point will allow it to over center, or at least give the sucking wind force less leverage when the doors are closed. I will probably have to work with my A&P to get a cable like yours

I also had a good experience with kx155.com. quick turnaround and great repair. made my 50 year old radio like new.

I looks "original but does not have the button. In looking through the maint manual I dont see how the over center bit will work like the J model that N201MKTurbo describes

Mine doesn't have a button, just the solid knob. Also not arranged for an "over center" position to hold them closed.

On my 69 F model the cowl flaps operate normally on the ground, but spontaneously open in flight. while in cruise the knob comes about half-way back out. If i push hard I can force it to remain closed, and see a 2-3 knot gain in speed. the cable is a straight push-pull, with no twist to lock mechanism. anyone know how to fix this?

I do have one, used, removed, working as far as I know. I'll sell it to you. I don't have a way to test it but if it is a dud I'll take it back. See my post "used instruments" in this forum for a photo