M Terry

The bait well bubbler eventially quit working. it would vibrate but not move any air. I replaced it with a motor/pump combination off ebay, same tubing and connectors and dessicant chamber held together with duct tape/

Fix that one with some tank sealant and fiberglass cloth

We need mr fusion. https://youtu.be/ptlhgFaB89Y?feature=shared

Top Gun has a good reputation I'd contact Andy at the Airframe company in Woodland https://www.airframe.company/ both about an hour flight away from San Martin

this is my set up: 12v bait well bubbler blows air through desiccant in an old pretzel jug, out via hospital suction tubing to the oil dipstick tube. air comes out of the motor via the crankcase vent. Runs intermittently, controlled by a electronic timer. powered by a bank of surplus BB600 ni-cad cells, that are charged by a solar panel on the roof of the hangar.

Hello Alan. I'm wondering if the annunciator panel is the same as the broken one in my 1969 F model. could you post a photo? thanks

Andy Wright at Watts-Woodland airport. https://www.airframe.com

I have a complete King HSI system, working when removed to put in a G5 KI 525A indicator KG 102A directional gyro the vibration dampening mount for the gyro KMT112 Magnetic azimuth transmitter the one part I don't have to sell is the slaving accessory $2900, Ill cover the shipping

Don't Get the electric ones from precise flight. They are good for about 12 minutes of use before you have to pull them and send them back for a 3000 dollar repair, or more likely, just be told they need to be replaced. if you have something that works with a cable and a lever, stick with it.

There is a F model with the J bar for sale at KEDU: https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/avo/d/davis-mooney-m20f/7781591294.html

Airframe company at Watts-Woodland Airport. They do my annuals and repairs. Andy is a Mooney expert and enthusiast. https://www.airframe.company/services

I have an 8 inch android tablet with Avare for charts and plates, mounted on a suction cup ram mount on the left side window just in front of my left shoulder.

Has anyone converted their bird with electric gear to a Johnson Bar?

I had a similar occurrence, landing at sea level, full rich, cool day. Engine cut out just as I let the nose wheel down on the pavement. Started right up when I bumped the starter. Had the Idle and idle mixture adjusted and it didn't happen again until one day when I did a power off 180, saw I was coming up short so I pulled the prop lever all the way back to extend the glide. I easily made the runway but the prop stopped before I touched down the idle seems correct when warmed up on the ramp, although I find that the fully retarded throttle stop is a little soft. If I just pull it gently back I idle around 650. If I pull it firmly against the stop it goes down to 500-550. Now when I land I slightly back off the throttle from the idle position

I got it printed and the avionics shop painted it and put the letters on it, looks just like the original.

Airframe company in Woodland O41 https://www.airframe.company/

I have the STL file, get it here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4340751 a 3d printing shop in Irvine made one for me, the avionics shop painted it and put the letters on,

I was a bit bulky and more resistant to flexing than the pre-repair duct. But it was completely cured the same day and I was able to squish it into place. The permatex never cured. Weeks later the smudges of the excess on the bench of my room temperature workspace are still tackey

I tried this but the RTV was still tacky a week later, and I found a new hole in the duct. Another thread suggested using a composite tank sealant instead so I re-did it with 2 layers of fiberglass and the tank sealant above and below each layer of cloth. I used cotton thread wrapping to keep the gooey fabric tucked into each of the corrugations. Seems pretty bombproof now. I also added myself to the Lasar wait-list. I spoke to a A&P at one of the MSCs, He said they wrap them with the self-bonding silicone tape from Spruce

Indeed, the RTV remained tacky and a week later i found another hole in the duct. I re-did it with 2 layers of fiberglass and the tank sealant above and below each layer of cloth. I used cotton thread wrapping to keep the gooey fabric tucked into each of the corrugations. Seems pretty bombproof now. I also added myself to the Lasar wait-list. I spoke to a A&P at one of the MSCs, He said they wrap them with the self-bonding silicone tape from Spruce

there is an earlier thread about repairing this duct rather than replacing it. I Recently use the method of painting on RTV then two layers of fiberglass cloth. I'm going to inspect it frequently to see how it holds up

yes I still have the 920s

at the cowl end. An A&P had "repaired" it. but I found the nut just bouncing around in the cowling. It clamps on to the stiff piano wire that extends out of the cable housing. Mine does not have any type of locking mechanism in the cockpit. Other models have a locking mechanism at the handle rather than the over center mechanism in mine

in my f model I had a similar problem with the Ram air. Mine works by moving the lever connected directly to the ram air "over center" so that outside pressure holds it closed rather than pushing it open. It may be as simple as loosening the nut on the end of the cable and moving it to where it goes over center when the control arm is moved to the closed position