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paulsmeds

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Northern California
  • Reg #
    N3506X
  • Model
    M20F

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  1. HRM, did you ever figure out why #2 is hotter? I'm having this exact problem. I recently did a complete top overhaul and added a JPI engine monitor. I’m consistently showing #2 is much hotter than the rest. Climb will easily hit 400 while the next hottest is 350 as I lower the nose to keep it under 400 all full rich. Cruise 360ish while others low 300’s all while 40 degrees out. I’ve swapped sensors and verified sensors are good, checked for exhaust leaks blowing on the sensor and have the baffling in good shape. Even on the ground just taxing #2 will be 50 degrees or more hotter than the rest. I’m assuming this issue is there is no airflow pushing down past the fins on #2. Interesting I had a small oil leak in the front seal and after a long flight, there would be oil up under the top cowl above #2 and was slowly wicking forward, up and out while totally dry above #1. Suggests the airflow is not coming in past #2 but maybe stagnant due to back pressure on the pilot side. #4 is also the next warmest (although okay) which also suggest I'm not getting much cooling air pushing down past #2 and #4. I almost feel like there should be a baffle above #2 that deflects air down and keep it from blowing back out the front of the cowling. Very interested if you made any progress in getting #2 cooler. We have some hot weather coming and I don’t want to bake these overhauled cylinders. 1967 Mooney M20F IO360A1A
  2. Thanks everyone for the sound advice. It was an unexpected shocker and clearer heads always prevail. We quickly scoped the cylinder and it does show a burned valve on the questioned cylinder. We can’t do anything for about a week but the plan is: 1. Redo leak down on all four (both cold, then warm it up and do it again) and identify where the air is going (exhaust or case). 2. Re-scope all four cylinders and get clear pictures of the valves, piston and walls (so shiny hard to see any scorching). From here we should have a clearer picture if we are talking just one problem cylinder or more. At this point, I’m resolved to replacing the problem jug with new providing the others are still in good shape. After talking with a couple good shops, they are saying overhauling a cylinder is going to take weeks or more and the cost will be just slightly less than purchasing a new jug from AirPower. But I’m getting ahead of myself again. Thanks again everyone for the excellent input.
  3. Lots of good info guys thank you. Still settling in this isn’t going to be a normal annual year and cost a lot more $$$ I don’t have to spare. Oil consumption is up a little from prior years but not bad. Run 20 to 30 hours a year prior to this year. This year about 70 as we are planning on using it more and never missed a beat or acted up. Oil is not burnt looking or smells bad. Changed at 35 hours prior to now and all was normal. No power drop off, no odd running, no odd starting, no drop off in climb or cruise, all normal. If not for low leak down on two cylinders wouldn’t know anything was up. No engine monitor – I know I should have one. Leak down we could not tell where the air was going. Used a borescope, valves all moving so not stuck and look okay. Getting a better camera in a couple of days. Going to take a step back, big breath and check it over again. See if we can determine where the air is going because it has to go somewhere. Get some better pictures inside and go from there. A&P is getting up there in age and is reluctant to get into a cylinder replacement. If it goes that direction, might have to find some more options locally.
  4. I was hoping for somewhere we could fly it in and have it worked on and avoid the remove and re-install costs. Maybe that's just a pipe dream.
  5. I got some unexpected and bad news on two cylinders in my 680 SMOH IO-360A1A 15 years ago. One shows very low compression 25 and another 50. Last two in the 70s. Prior year all 4 in the 70s. No sign of power loss or engine roughness and ran 70 hours this year. A&P thinks the engine is run out and needs a top overhaul on the two cylinders at the least and he can’t do it. Any recommendations for a reputable shop\mechanic in Northern CA? Wasn't looking to break the bank for another 10 years so this is a shocker and also don't really know where to take it. 1967 M20F
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