Mooney-Shiner

I build this monstrosity to pump the brakes from calipers up. Seems like it worked.

Thank you, Cliffy. Over the years I greatly benefited from your advice, but today I'm a little hurt. It seems that you didn't read me specifically saying that I want to use this procedure for troubleshooting only. Rest assure, no take off will be conducted. I'm still renovating to prepare my plane for an annual, brother.

Your photo #5. I'm looking for one for my 67F as a spare for the future overhaul

HI, How much for the nose gear?

Wow, secret pages of SMM! Actually first time seeing this drawing after fours years of staring at them. I had no idea that there is a supplement

Thank you! Mine is 1967 as opposed to 1969 above.

I asked my AP about spare battery, but no joy. Starter solenoid seems fine.

My battery is on Battery Minder the entire time that it is sitting. My Concorde is just old and tired, so I will be replacing it. BUT I wanted to make sure it is only battery that I'm having a problem with.

Yes, strange. I was under impression that one pin (Piper style) is a standard for pre-J Mooneys...

Thank you. The aircraft jumper wires are much longer than my car jumper wires. Plus I want to make sure that there is a process prescribed by the factory manual.

Thank you. Is there a published procedure for using power cart to spare perfectly functioning battery?

Thank you. I'm NOT trying to start a dumpster fire, but why would Mooney Factory installed something that "you're not supposed to use?" And I'm saying this with utmost respect to your experience and knowledge.

Good morning, esteemed group! My battery seem to be getting weaker on the start up. It is absolutely due for a replacement (going with EarthX). HOWEVER, I would like to check that I only have a battery issue. So my plan is to use my one pin (Piper style) jumper cables to connect to my car battery, and give my 67F model a start. If it starts then I know that I only have an issue with battery. If it won't start, then I will have to dig deeper. I read through my 67F POH, SMM and even this board but still can't find a Mooney's published jump start procedure. Where should I look? If there is factory installed jumper plug, shouldn't there be an instructions on how to use it? Thank you

Carl, I have IO360

Not to kidnap the add, but my lock can be forced spun if I will pull on the door handle hard enough. I keep tighten the lock, but it still spins

Crazy enough, I never noticed that my 67 F model didn’t have a generator switch. I guess I just never missed it. I fly Cessna for training (getting ratings) and used the alternator on/of switch to opcheck the alternator. is there a use in having on/off switch on generator?

It does. But we made another ground to the firewall

Thank you for the help. Looks like my IPC asking for the grounding on one end (at the switch).

Thank you! You are exactly right, the p-lead shielding is terminated at the Bendix 10-357200-1A ignition switch with another connection to the body of the aircraft. Thank you for the feedback, everyone. MS wins again!

I have one Insulated Ground shield wire that attached to the left mag on my 67F. It’s pretty flimsy connection and I would like to have it rebuilt. is there a guidelines on how it supposed to look like? I didn’t see it in IPC or service manual.

How did you measure your torque? Maybe I will use your method

Thank you. Yes, used the torque screwdriver at 18 in. What measured torque did you use?

Does anyone else have a problem with squashing their sender gaskets? I used the 18 inch/lb torque (CIES install manual prescribes 18-22 inch/lb).

The back left baffle will have to be cut. Also CHECK the dry fit before using the STC supplied template. I followed the provided buffle template and my oil cooler ended up rubbing the motor mount, so I had to re-do the holes placement.

Layton, The shunt replacement is pretty straight forward on non-moded F model. Its right by the avionics access panel. The crimping of oil pressure and fuel pressure connector pins can be a little tricky. It will false read if not crimped right. Also I keep a much of the service loop of wire as possible just in case that you will need to move things around in the future. Especially, on the EGT/CHT wires since you can't butt-connect two of those wires (supposedly). The RPM sensor mounts on the mag opening closer to the mag flange. Those are some "gotchas" that got me.