Mooney-Shiner

Hooker's belts only come in black when on the reel

DC, I called Hooker to get all the info. Their website is weak. Alpha told me that they don't list their Minor Change Kit on the website, but you can call and order. Based on everything that smart people said, I will go with Hooker systems. Pilot with the reel, Co-pilot with manual. Tabs on. I was thinking about trying to put the Minor change kit out of generic parts, but this thread showed me that the parts unique enough for me to just $160 for two kits instead of trying to find the right match.

Yeah, Mike, I remember laughing while reading your previous post about your wife making you take off the HOOKER patch. I will tell my wife that I'm commemorating "Fighting Joe" Hooker, Commanding General, Army of Potomac.

Hey, guys, I pulled off all the interior for the insulation replacement, so decided to install the shoulder belts as well. So I just wanted to update on seat belt install options. I found two options. Both three points and both require the replacement of lap and shoulder: 1. Hooker $275 per seat. Manual adjust. Additional $200 per seat if you want the Inertial reel. Also I would have to get the "Minor change kit" from Alpha Aviation for $80 each to attach the shoulder belt to the tubular structure. 2. Alpha Aviation. Option A Manual adjust $690 +$40 for the Minor Change kit: https://alphaaviation.com/mooney-m20-front-fixed-strap-replacement-push-button/ Option B Inertial Reel adjust $750 +$40 for the Minor Change kit: https://alphaaviation.com/mooney-m20-front-inertial-reel-replacement-upgrade-lift-lever/ Looking at these options, I'm keen on going with Hooker's Manual adjust harness and paying for Alpha Aviation Minor Change kits.

Thank you, Skip. This is the exact answer that I was looking for!

Hi guys, My brakes need to replaced. We pulled everything apart and discover two interesting things: 1. L/H brake piston is stuck in the caliper. So I'm planning on taking it to machine shop to see if anything can be done. Otherwise, its BAS/TexasSalv/J-Pressley time. 2. L/H pressure and backing plates have 3 rivet holes as opposed to R/H hardware that has two holes. Looking at the IPC, I can see that the illustration shows 2 hole assy. According to IPC, the parts I need are 74-10 (plate assy, backing), 64-15 (plate), 73-11 (plate assy, pressure) and 63-12 (plate, pressure). Should I just assume that 3 hole assy can from entirely different aircraft and has to be replaced? What would be a good source for replacement? Any other thoughts are welcome. P.S. Planning to do donuts ( cure date 12/67!) on my mains while re-building the brakes.

Hopefully, this is just a gauge problem. Otherwise, I would check for oil burn rate and potential blowby (will increase the oil temp)

Removed my cluster for 900 install. Let me know if you still can't find a part

I have it. Don't buy it. Over a year of frustration and unable to get it to keep under 50% RH in the crankcase. I will write a full write up eventually, but for now I will leave you with this: "build your own desiccant bead dryer with fish tank pump for under $100." Here is the link that I used the most https://www.kitplanes.com/oh-dry-up-engine-dehumidifier/ I also added the car inline fuel filter on the way into the crankcase. Make it early on and improve eventually to add more fancy features. PM me if you need me to walk you through the process over the phone.

Moving along with the install since holidays. All the EGT/CHT probes are in, CB replaced with modern pull CBs, and now the fun part - fuel transducer. I know that the fuel lines attached to transducer using 180 inch LBS https://www.jpinstruments.com/shop/fuel-flow-transducer-231/, but what about the rest of the fuel line? Like the fuel pump to the hose connection and the servo to hose connection? I looked through Lycs SERVICE TABLE OF LIMITS AND TORQUE VALUE, but couldn’t find it there. Also has anyone tried to seal the transducer fire sleeve with Band-It Clamps as per manual? I ordered the clamps on Spruce, but have no such tool. I found this tool on Amazon, but its pretty pricey for doing just two clamps. https://www.amazon.com/Center-Clamps-50pack-Diameter4-stainless/dp/B0CRRHNPYG/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=1K65C08DNYWKK&keywords=band+it+tool&qid=1706411178&sprefix=band+it+%2Caps%2C172&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1 Any insights are welcome.

To answer my own question about MT Prob: According to MacFarlane, "The prop/spinner and STC sells for $15,950 plus freight from Germany." Its a 3 blade with 71" diameter (so additional clearance?). Some of the benefits mentioned: "• Stainless Steel leading edge for ZERO erosion and protection of the blades • Equal or better performance in all catagories of fl ight • Unlimited Blade and Hub life • User Repairable Blades for minor damage" "No RPM prohibited zone" Tempting, but its 3K over the quote I got from Tiffin for their conventional two blade Hartzell C2R10703STP.

I wonder if MT from McFarlane will fit right for you? https://www.mcfarlaneaviation.com/articles/mt-stc-collapse/ I haven't tried them yet.

I'm still having issues with fitting the front filler piece. It seems to be too small to provide enough "grab" by the rivets. I wonder if any of you had the same issues? Be warned about my annoying unrehearsed and self-confusing description.

I like this tool for plastic repair:

So the shop eventually determined that the cylinder was unairworthy (despite initial positive assessment)? What are you going to do with it? Re-plate with nickel or chrome and reinstall? Or replace with new? Thank you for keeping us updated

Hmm, makes sense. I just ordered all of the CBs from Spruce, but will see if I can procure alternative 5 amp CB that has more rear clearance since I crawled into that snake nest. Thank you for huge help, 47!

After some pondering, I decided to replace all 7 CBs with modern 7277 at $24-sh each to adopt the bar to the new pattern. My PSM CBs are pretty ancient, and some are damaged. Also, I decided to install the shunt fuses for ammeter closer to the shunt.

THank you. "ADF" 3 is being used for the GTX 320 transponder, but the adjacent Radio 15 is not being used by anything. I pulled this CB and tried to match it to push-pull CB in terms of size, but I can't find anything matching in terms of rear clearance (1.350"). Since I don't want to break apart the existing bussbar, I'm planning to get a regular modern push-pull 7274 Klixon and will build the a jumper wire to the existing bussbar.

Removed the "un-employed" Klixon circuit breaker B7A 15Amp photo below. Now need to replace it with 5Amp CB to make it a dedicated CB for JPI900. What would be a good source for this replacement? I saw 2TC2-5 CIRCUIT BREAKER on Aircraft Spruce, and wonder will it fit.

Thank you for the feed back, guys! The install is coming along. Did a dry-fit of 900 on the manufactured alum plate above radio stack. Pretty happy with the fit. Eventually, I'm thinking about cutting a carbon fiber board to cover entire right side of the panel to cover all of the holes and bare aluminum. Installed the ground wire to the engine as RX'd. Current head scratcher for me is the red power wire. The JPI instructs to "connect red 20GA wire(power) to the master solenoid at the battery to avoid the line drop when cranking. 5 Amp circuit breaker (CB) required." My master solenoid is located in far right side of the cabin and it has 1 CB that is not connected to anything ("Radio 15 Amp"), both of my radios CBs are on the separate avionics bar, connected to "Avionics" switch. I'm planning on using this Radio spot to install the dedicated 5amp CB for my JPI 900 EDM. This is what the CB similar to Radio 15 amp CB looks like from the rear. Where can I source these kind of CBs? Should I install the modern push-pull breaker? Also as for inline 1 Amp fuse for the Amperage wires to shunt, where do you place them on the JPI wires? Closer to the instrument, or closer to the shunt? Thank you for all of the support and encourangements! Yuriy

I took mine off from my 67F to install JPI900. You can have it for $300, if you'd like. If you don't like it, you can return it for full refund

Yeah, that hanging placard with all of the info is pretty good.

Well, duh! This makes perfect sense, doesn't it? Sorry, I tend to over-complicate things.

Sorry about unearthing retired thread, but does anyone have the measurements of the limits sticker? I think I will order 20 of them from local printshop instead of paying $20 for one from Lasar

That looks like a very clean install!