Mooney-Shiner

Carl, I have IO360

Not to kidnap the add, but my lock can be forced spun if I will pull on the door handle hard enough. I keep tighten the lock, but it still spins

Crazy enough, I never noticed that my 67 F model didn’t have a generator switch. I guess I just never missed it. I fly Cessna for training (getting ratings) and used the alternator on/of switch to opcheck the alternator. is there a use in having on/off switch on generator?

It does. But we made another ground to the firewall

Thank you for the help. Looks like my IPC asking for the grounding on one end (at the switch).

Thank you! You are exactly right, the p-lead shielding is terminated at the Bendix 10-357200-1A ignition switch with another connection to the body of the aircraft. Thank you for the feedback, everyone. MS wins again!

I have one Insulated Ground shield wire that attached to the left mag on my 67F. It’s pretty flimsy connection and I would like to have it rebuilt. is there a guidelines on how it supposed to look like? I didn’t see it in IPC or service manual.

How did you measure your torque? Maybe I will use your method

Thank you. Yes, used the torque screwdriver at 18 in. What measured torque did you use?

Does anyone else have a problem with squashing their sender gaskets? I used the 18 inch/lb torque (CIES install manual prescribes 18-22 inch/lb).

The back left baffle will have to be cut. Also CHECK the dry fit before using the STC supplied template. I followed the provided buffle template and my oil cooler ended up rubbing the motor mount, so I had to re-do the holes placement.

Layton, The shunt replacement is pretty straight forward on non-moded F model. Its right by the avionics access panel. The crimping of oil pressure and fuel pressure connector pins can be a little tricky. It will false read if not crimped right. Also I keep a much of the service loop of wire as possible just in case that you will need to move things around in the future. Especially, on the EGT/CHT wires since you can't butt-connect two of those wires (supposedly). The RPM sensor mounts on the mag opening closer to the mag flange. Those are some "gotchas" that got me.

Thank you. This thread helped me to take the wheels off for rotor/tire/tube replacement and wheel repaint. Not to hijack the thread (no pun), but does anyone know what metal these wheels are made of? I was going to strip them, bake them in the oven (to pull the humidity out) and paint them.

You are exactly right. I bought one for passenger and one for pilot.

OK, bum scoop on my part. The Minor Change Kits are only $40 (as opposed to $80 previously written) each even if you are not getting the Alpha Aviation rigs.

Hooker's belts only come in black when on the reel

DC, I called Hooker to get all the info. Their website is weak. Alpha told me that they don't list their Minor Change Kit on the website, but you can call and order. Based on everything that smart people said, I will go with Hooker systems. Pilot with the reel, Co-pilot with manual. Tabs on. I was thinking about trying to put the Minor change kit out of generic parts, but this thread showed me that the parts unique enough for me to just $160 for two kits instead of trying to find the right match.

Yeah, Mike, I remember laughing while reading your previous post about your wife making you take off the HOOKER patch. I will tell my wife that I'm commemorating "Fighting Joe" Hooker, Commanding General, Army of Potomac.

Hey, guys, I pulled off all the interior for the insulation replacement, so decided to install the shoulder belts as well. So I just wanted to update on seat belt install options. I found two options. Both three points and both require the replacement of lap and shoulder: 1. Hooker $275 per seat. Manual adjust. Additional $200 per seat if you want the Inertial reel. Also I would have to get the "Minor change kit" from Alpha Aviation for $80 each to attach the shoulder belt to the tubular structure. 2. Alpha Aviation. Option A Manual adjust $690 +$40 for the Minor Change kit: https://alphaaviation.com/mooney-m20-front-fixed-strap-replacement-push-button/ Option B Inertial Reel adjust $750 +$40 for the Minor Change kit: https://alphaaviation.com/mooney-m20-front-inertial-reel-replacement-upgrade-lift-lever/ Looking at these options, I'm keen on going with Hooker's Manual adjust harness and paying for Alpha Aviation Minor Change kits.

Thank you, Skip. This is the exact answer that I was looking for!

Hi guys, My brakes need to replaced. We pulled everything apart and discover two interesting things: 1. L/H brake piston is stuck in the caliper. So I'm planning on taking it to machine shop to see if anything can be done. Otherwise, its BAS/TexasSalv/J-Pressley time. 2. L/H pressure and backing plates have 3 rivet holes as opposed to R/H hardware that has two holes. Looking at the IPC, I can see that the illustration shows 2 hole assy. According to IPC, the parts I need are 74-10 (plate assy, backing), 64-15 (plate), 73-11 (plate assy, pressure) and 63-12 (plate, pressure). Should I just assume that 3 hole assy can from entirely different aircraft and has to be replaced? What would be a good source for replacement? Any other thoughts are welcome. P.S. Planning to do donuts ( cure date 12/67!) on my mains while re-building the brakes.

Hopefully, this is just a gauge problem. Otherwise, I would check for oil burn rate and potential blowby (will increase the oil temp)

Removed my cluster for 900 install. Let me know if you still can't find a part

I have it. Don't buy it. Over a year of frustration and unable to get it to keep under 50% RH in the crankcase. I will write a full write up eventually, but for now I will leave you with this: "build your own desiccant bead dryer with fish tank pump for under $100." Here is the link that I used the most https://www.kitplanes.com/oh-dry-up-engine-dehumidifier/ I also added the car inline fuel filter on the way into the crankcase. Make it early on and improve eventually to add more fancy features. PM me if you need me to walk you through the process over the phone.

Moving along with the install since holidays. All the EGT/CHT probes are in, CB replaced with modern pull CBs, and now the fun part - fuel transducer. I know that the fuel lines attached to transducer using 180 inch LBS https://www.jpinstruments.com/shop/fuel-flow-transducer-231/, but what about the rest of the fuel line? Like the fuel pump to the hose connection and the servo to hose connection? I looked through Lycs SERVICE TABLE OF LIMITS AND TORQUE VALUE, but couldn’t find it there. Also has anyone tried to seal the transducer fire sleeve with Band-It Clamps as per manual? I ordered the clamps on Spruce, but have no such tool. I found this tool on Amazon, but its pretty pricey for doing just two clamps. https://www.amazon.com/Center-Clamps-50pack-Diameter4-stainless/dp/B0CRRHNPYG/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=1K65C08DNYWKK&keywords=band+it+tool&qid=1706411178&sprefix=band+it+%2Caps%2C172&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1 Any insights are welcome.