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hammdo

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Everything posted by hammdo

  1. KDWH (David Wayne Hooks) may have what you’re looking for. Houston Exec (KTME) is further west. KSGR (Sugarland) is southwest. Galveston is too far I think (KGLS) unless you’d like to be near the beach like I do ;o) drive time varies from there depending on traffic… -Don
  2. Success! Filled the tanks tonight and verified no seeps! I'll take her flying tomorrow and Sunday to make sure. I ordered Wing Walk to redo the 'wing walk' so that will be fresh. We'll see how long this lasts but I'm hopeful since the permatex #3 seems to hold up well.... -Don
  3. Ditto, not doing that either. I’ll continue honing my ‘hand flying’ skills a bit longer or go Garmin… -Don
  4. I have almost 200 hours on the engine since I bought the plane from David (Sabremech) running Victory and Camguard. I’m not seeing that kind of carbon in the filter (virtually none really). Change oil 25-30 hours. That is interesting to see and I’ll keep an eye on that on mine… -Don
  5. Ditto for me too… -Don
  6. Tonight, I did the scraping, cleaning, alumiprep/alodine, then sealing of the rivets. Pics below but looks like I got all those exposed rivets.... Will test out Friday or Saturday to see if I need to do any touchups -- then, I'll do the wing-walk... -Don
  7. Flew her tonight to get the fuel down. Started the stripping of the rivets. The plan is to do all rivets on both rows to ensure I get a good seal on those. I'll do the same process as the last rivets. Once I'm sure those are sealed well, I'll strip the rest and do a new wing-walk. BTW, I did put down 3M aluminum tape on the areas where I don't want the stripper (like next to the white paint and the area closes to the fuselage. -Don
  8. Went out tonight and filled the plane -- happy to report 0 leaks from the rivets I sealed but did find 3 more that are just slightly seeping. I'll strip that area tomorrow and do the whole row just to cover my bases: Still, not bad for a quick seal job... -Don
  9. Probably due to no radar at the airport I would guess… -Don
  10. Good for the airport and city… -Don
  11. Ditto, many straight ins…
  12. RV folks use this for those also. Most use seal-all thinned down since it’s clear or the green loctite. -Don
  13. Np! I figure if it works for the RV guys (some use a good sealer but others use loctite) it’s worth a go. Many have had great success doing this approach.., -Don
  14. The syringe. The bottom is opened up to cover the rivet. Once filled and placed over the rivet, I used the red palm handle on the plunger and pushed down . With the palm handle, it applies 25 lbs of pressure around the rivet head. The palm handle is the red part in the pic. So, it’s not a gravity fill but pressure applied around the rivet head. I can do a video next time I’m out to the hanger…. RV folks use green loctite 290 to fill those rivet heads. I can imagine the reaction I’d get here if I tried that ;o) -Don
  15. I’m trying something different. I went to a shop that has patched before. Big leak fixed, exiting small seps still there. Ok, so now I’m trying an approach that the RV folks have used for decades. Worth a shot. The patch is just a stop gap. I’m sure a full reseal is needed at some point - just not now. I can sure do the internal patch but no A&P around to review so, I’m doing something else. To me, worth the try. I don’t want to go back, pay an additional flat fee. If the first patch didn’t get it, next one probably won’t either. This is just a stop gap.. I haven’t found anywhere on MooneySpace where anyone tried this so…I’m going for it…. -Don
  16. Cover plate is good, just the rivets.. seeped right after I filled it up when I got back. The big leak though was fixed - no more dripping in the wheel well.. -Don
  17. This is leaking from the side Maxwell just completed. No guarantee I was told. I guess I could ask them… I’m pretty sure they didn’t fill the tank. Total time from final strip to sealing the rivets was 25 minutes. -Don
  18. This is how I prepped the area while doing the treatment. Helped keep the Permatex from spreading: -Don
  19. Flew the plane last night (didn't add fuel). Went out tonight to see how the curing is doing -- looks really good. I took a pic to show how the 'pressure' approach works -- filled in the rivets nicely... I'll do a fill-up this weekend to see if I need to do another treatment... -Don
  20. FYI: "While ECI maintains that the new CermiNil process will work on any engine and any engine model, theres enough feedback in the field to support the idea that the coating is not recommended in Mooney aircraft, particularly the Lycoming-powered versions. But that has proven true for Mooneys with any chrome process, not just ECIs. With the exception of ECI, most shops we’ve talked to agree that Mooneys should be topped only with steel barrels. Some also recommend that owners of the Piper Saratoga and Navajo should also avoid using CermiNil. The jury is still out on this, however, because not all agree that these engines are problematic." From the article… -Don
  21. I can certainly wait more time. I’ve used it on screws also but usually waited until the next weekend to fly. The red palm handle allowed me to put good pressure on the surface so I’ll be interested to see how well it worked. Did the process 3 times on each rivet. -Don
  22. Completed sealing the rivets. Letting it cure overnight and will give it a test tomorrow. I’ll fly it a bit, fill it again and let it sit. If all looks good, may do a full strip and redo the full wing walk. Probably use prekote vs alumiprep and alodine. -Don
  23. Totally NOT FAIR to withhold name ;o) Yep, glad some places know what CS is… -Don
  24. Insurance will be a killer first year, may want to consider getting the private first (using all the fixed costs of ownership to do that), but it all about what you can do and possibly having down time. I will say, I did the owner thing (Warrior) in the 90s due to the rental issues (plane in 100 hour, rented or down for repair). That also factors but, insurance was cheaper then… -Don
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