hammdo

I had to buy a 3 ft piece of aluminum at Lowe’s - $30. Did the job!

I document it completely for sure. I did check on this and from what I saw, replacing was ok. If an IA balks, I’ll let them re-do it. It really is not a complex process. Removing a mag, cylinder, yeah, not gonna do that without AP/IA. Pushing Coleal? If this was a complex job (which to me this wasn’t and well within my skill set), I’d agree. I guess time will tell… The reason I documented it was to show I’m working with what I can tell is in the spirit of Coleal. Simple maintenance task that are not complex. -Don

Before I started, I got everything ready AND put rubber mats down -- just in case I dropped anything (don't want a broken spark plug -- those fine wires are expensive):

DId number 2 cylinder the same way (it had a big dent in the tube). I also inspected #4 and the shroud for the intake side had a bad spot right where it entered the cylinder. While I was at it, I replace the #4 cylinder drain tube since it had chafing on the aluminum tube. I did put chafing tape on that area also. Pics of #2 and #4 cylinder completed and ready for a run up. I plan on doing #1 and #3 too. Just taking my time and not rushing things ;o) I know these are good tubes, new seals with new spring clamps. I also know the spark plug has new washer too. Not a bad job and after reviewing Coleal, this is not a complex disassembly and simple to do with the right set of tool. I didn't do this because it was cheaper (it certainly was not since did buy all those tools -- including the calibrated torque wrenches) but since I felt I had the necessary skill set, I did it. I did use the assembly lube on all contact areas, push rods, and rocker arms.

Next put the pushrods in and then assembled the rocker arms. I had to make a spring compressor to allow me to 'tweak' the rocker arm shaft so it would glide in -- you know, the lifters were still pumped up and I didn't want to even remove those. Once that was done, and the rocker arms were back in place, I then re-installed the Thrust Buttons and install the new valve cover gasket. Lycoming has and SI that details the torque spec and sequence. After that, I reinstalled the spark plug with a new washer, torqued using the calibrated torque wrench (30-35 ft lbs), then installed the lead. THE LEAD required me to use a 7/16 wrench to hold the lead from moving while I used a 3/4 wrench to tighten the lead down on the spark plug. THIS IS A MUST to prevent the lead 'cigarette butt' from breaking.

Using a new spring clamp, lock plate, and nut, assembled and torqued using a calibrated torque wrench to 96 inch lbs. I then had to tighten the nut a bit more so the lock plate would sit flush -- you can see that in the pic. I then used a channel lock to crimp the lock plate down.:

Next, I clean everything, made a 85% 50 wt mineral oil, 15% STP mix per Lycoming SI instructions for rockers. Once I did that, setup the new push rod shrouds (I did paint them with self etching primer and HI temp engine gray paint), setup the seals using the assembly lube mix, and install the tubes - pushing until I felt the 'pop' once its locked in. I used a screwdriver handle that was the same size as the tube to confirm they were properly seated:

I then removed the spring clamp, lock plate and nut -- keeping them in the same orientation. Then I removed each shroud and put the appropriate pushrod to keep track of the push rods (shown above):

Once that was done, I removed the rocker arms and push rods -- noting the side they belonged to and organized them. I noted the orientation of the pushrod shroud, spring clamp, lock plate, and nut. This is important to make it easier to re-assemble. I organized the shrouds with the pushrods so I would know where they went. I did 1 cylinder at a time to keep things simple.

Well, I decided to go ahead and do the pushrod shrouds. This is a multi-post set so I'll do each in steps so the pics flow. After reviewing all the SIs and Lycoming maintenance manual, I decided its really a pretty simple and not complex process. So I started on #4 and removed the rocker cover. I then removed the spark plug, got the cylinder on TDC, verified the intake/exhaust were off the lobs, then I slid the rocker arm shaft side to side to remove the Thrust Buttons from both sides of the rocker shaft -- that was VERY easy to do.

Keep the inspection panels! -Don

Well, at least they will be available… -Don

This: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002M4G24U?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title works great and is a good one for oil and fuel systems… I get the 2 pack… I have 3 black light flashlights too… if you needs some extra eyes or help, let me know… -Don

I’ve ordered all new pushrod shrouds, seals, drain tubes, retainer springs, lock washers, and nuts. I figured since there is obviously leaks in the shrouds and tubes, I might as well do those. -Don

Well, I guess I was not so lucky -- I did the dye treatment, flew it 1 lap in the pattern -- leaking on #4 pushrod shrouds (both), I can see the oil return tube on #4 very wet (I notice a wear mark on it), oil cooler fittings have leaks, oil quick drain leaking, and the #1 oil return tube is also leaking. #2 pushrod shroud looks like it has a pin hole leak in the 'kink' area too. Now, I feel I can do the pushrod shroud seals but, can I do that using Coleal? I wish I had my AP or and AP locally who could oversee, but that is REALLY hard around here. I figure I could replace both oil return tubes easily, but the pushrod shrouds (spring, nut, retainer, seals seem pretty easy (hell, I did my LSA cam, supercharger,etc but, that is not in the air). Anyway, Pics from the dye and black light -- I had this engine CLEAN and it sure made a mess in 1 run in the pattern. Thoughts would be appreciated

Congrats! Another Texas Mooney coming home… -Don

Did a cleanup and inspection today on the oil leak. Before I do the dye, I decided to check the obvious first - found the oil drain hose clamp loose on #4 so I removed the line and cleaned/ retorqued the clamp. Second, I saw a lot of oil below the #4 valve cover so removed it - yep lots of oil on the lower area below the valve cover - both sides of the silicone gasket showed evidence of leaking. Replace the gasket with a new one and follow the new SI from Lycoming: https://www.lycoming.com/sites/default/files/file/2024-02/SI1588 Rocker Box Cover Screw Torque.pdf Note the gasket orientation- rounded sections on top for the silicone/cork gasket… A test flight tomorrow with the dye added just to make sure I got it fixed. Dye will let me know. I made sure the pushrod tube spring was secured - it is - has all new seals, spring clamp, nuts etc. Oil leak made a real mess but cleaned the engine compartment well. Next the belly will need a good cleaning after confirmation… -Don

Its much easier if you remove the copilots… -Don

Has a SWTA 201 windshield and covers, that is nice…

https://www.aopa.org/news-and-media/all-news/2024/october/17/faa-puts-disruptive-determination-on-hold

https://www.aopa.org/news-and-media/all-news/2024/october/17/faa-puts-disruptive-determination-on-hold

Stockyards down the road — great restaurants there! -Don

4 is the max for me, I try to keep it 3-3.5. I need a break by then… -Don

I’m waiting for the updated STC. I heard the Mooney Facebook group may have some who had it installed. I’m not on Facebook though. -Don

Yeah, when #4 cylinder was OH, I had all the seals replaced (push rod tubes) and new hardware. I’m going to check the valve cover gasket as that was not replaced, and will be checking the screws on the valve cover. Suspicious since most of the oil is on/around #4… -Don