67 m20F chump

It doesn’t line up well and has rubbed the fire wall at times. It’s a new plane to me so I’m going over it well and doing an annual that will include E.I. 30P+C and a G5 HSI. I have lots of work to do.

The clamp I have is in good shape but they put out a service bulletin that changes to the one in the pic. I will need to cut the ear off mine and have it welded back on. I’m more annoyed by the price. When I had Beechcraft everyone would tell me how proud beech was of parts. I never saw anything like a $400 clamp on a beech.

I’m with you. At over a hundred I would feel like they made some money but I got my part. At over 400 I want to make the part.

I was looking to replace the hanger for the exhaust pipe where it exits the plane. I called Lasar and was told it’s over $400. This is my third plane and the last 2 were Beechcraft. I have never seen a part so marked up before. I’m glad I can find the part and I have bought other parts from Lasar and thought they were reasonably priced but this one is insanely priced. Any leads on other part suppliers?

Went out to double check. Definitely flat. The countersink is on the flange to skin and it is drilled.

My cover is flat. I don’t have the countersink that your plane has mine is a 67’. I’m doing the same project on my plane. It has the same red stuff in the nutplate.

I helped do a door window on a Beechcraft. They made a point to close the door when you let the window sealant set up. I would think Mooney would be the same.

They welded my neighbors spinner. It was cheaper than buying a new one and so far it hasn’t cracked again. That shop is local for me.

My other thought is Bob has more clearance as the exhaust makes it’s way past the fire wall. Are your motor mounts sagging?

Looks like the old straps were used on the new exhaust. I don’t know if power flow calls for different hardware or not bot Bob’s solution looks like it’s working. I wonder if an IA would notice.

I would think you could check the micro switch on the throttle with an ohm meter. It sounds like it may be sticking.

Get him up local to make sure he likes it. If he is committed to it get him into a part 141 flight school. If he can get his cfi he could be instructing while going to college. I don’t know what your local airport has for instruction and a 141 school will have a program in place and oversight. Military is the best training you can get but it comes with a big time commitment. I think it’s 10 years after you get your wings. Look at Guard if you can but that requires a 4 year degree. If you can keep him home for a while to bang out college classes at community college it is cheaper but it’s also familiar. That could be good and bad.

Wow that’s a inexpensive overhaul. I had the same problem on my last plane and did the overhaul. The while your there stuff starts to add up. Your going to do motor mounts, exhaust, hoses...while your there right?

Does anyone know what the seal is for the screen on the fuel selector? For that matter a picture of the fuel selector and it’s o-rings would be nice to have too. I want to have parts in hand for my annual. Thanks!

I live on a runway. I spent about 100k doing a 50x60 with a 45’ door. Nothing is cheap in aviation except what your trying to sell.

I am no expert on this. From what little I know from continental cylinders when the exhaust valve stops rotating the face of the heat signs stops being circular. Then you get a discoloration at the edge of the valve face followed by a large repair bill or valve failure. Do a search on beechtalk for valve pics. Again I’m no expert. It could be a shadow I’m looking at. Better resolution pics would be nice. It’s my belief that this is more of a continental issue than lycoming. Also I’m coming from continental engines to lycoming. Why a cold compression check? We always did hot checks on the continental so I’m wondering if that’s the difference.

What was the compression on the cylinder in he 3rd photo?

I’m glad you posted about this. We are getting ready to change my pump too. I have the mags off for inspection and I don’t want to go back after the pump. May as well swap it out since I’m there. Spruce has overhauled tempest pumps but for $20 more you can get new lycoming pump and no core charge.

Some more thoughts. That Top Gun annual was in 2008. So it depends on your definition of recent. That is also when the gear pucks were done. They say to do them every 12 years or so on the lighter planes. It also looks like the plane is overdue for an annual too. That may be the reason he doesn’t want to take it to a MSC. one more thing that caught my non A&P eye was an entry for installation of a doubler on the elevator. I know it’s a no no on Beechcraft so I would want to ask a mechanic about that. Also the add says the paint isn’t old but I went back 11 years and didn’t see when it was done. Like Ron said “trust but verify “. I don’t know the broker but I do know some of them are so crooked they have to screw their pants on. A PPI is a must and don’t skimp. If it goes well have them do an annual.

Isn’t the overhaul from 1982? That’s a bunch of years without a good look at the cam and lifters. I don’t know of any bargains in aviation. With that being said definitely get a pre purchase inspection. You may want to turn it into an annual inspection if it passes the sniff test. I have no idea what the maintenance situation would be in PR.

If you bought a skybecon and later had to replace the KT76 you will have spent almost as much as you would have for an in and out solution. I was thinking about the KT74 too as a replacement for the 76. Keep us posted as to what you do.

For the life of me I don’t understand how cirrus sells so many of those plastic clown planes. I just don’t like them.

https://www.lycoming.com/sites/default/files/SB533C Recommended Action for sudden Engine Stoppage%2C Propeller_Rotor Strike or Loss of Propeller_Rotor Blade or Ti (1).pdf This isn’t the plane you want. I’m not sure I copied the correct link but google lycoming prop strike inspection.

Exactly what was done for the prop strike inspection? What price point are you looking at? An inexpensive airplane can get expensive fast. Don’t be in a rush to buy. After you look at the market you will know when a good prospect pops up. It’s always cheaper to buy the plane you want than to make one into the plane you want. I’m not the best negotiator but in my experience if you are not with in about 10% of the asking price the deal does not happen. Many owners are unrealistic about what the plane they own is worth. You will see them listed for sale for a long time. Some people list planes at unrealistic prices so the can say to the wife “look it’s for sale”. You will find your plane. Don’t forget to have 5-10k in a slush/burn fund for first year expenses.

Jim you hit on why I haven’t done it. However if you look at buying one already built as competition to a slightly used Mooney it’s much cheaper. A rv10 for $200k vs the Mooney ar $500k. 165kts vs 200kts. I fly off a 2400’ turf runway. The newish Mooney isn’t even a player. I’m the guy that is a repeat aviation offender. I should be the guy dreaming of buying a new Mooney aircraft. Instead I’m thinking about building a expensive experimental aircraft because I am burned out on $100 pma bolts and avionics that work but can’t be used on a flying aircraft that I can afford. Mooney is a beautiful aircraft and I will always enjoy looking at the new offerings but I will never own one. I think Mooney builds a quality product that has survived the test of time. At 850k I am not optimistic about the future. At that price it’s out of reach of most upper middle class buyers. When I spend more on aviation than I save for retirement I’m out of the game. As they say don’t hate the player hate the game. I can’t afford to play that game. Actually I can afford to play that game but I don’t think I ever will. I have been in aviation for 30 years and I know 2 people that have bought new certified aircraft. I know dozens that have built them.