67 m20F chump

I was thinking mouse for me too. It’s between the roll cage and fuel tank. I think the wing is the cheaper option. Do you mind giving some more details and what you spent? The guys I talked to about repair are talking 20k.

It’s the only spot on the wing and the only spot on the entire aircraft. I have 2 weeks of training at work so I’m going to sit in it and think up a plan. Any of you that have been down this road I would like to hear about it. I did talk to dmax about this. This part of the wing runs into the fuel tank so it’s an expensive repair. The options are replace the cap or replace the wing.

I live in flat land so I wouldn’t spend the money on that one. To me the engine has too many hours on it and that is an expensive overhaul. Ok just guessing that a K overhaul is 15-30 more AMU’s than a J. The lyco tbo is 2000 hours and it doesn’t have continental cylinders on it. I like the turbo planes but for where I fly it isn’t worth it.

I found a wing 5k delivered. A shop quoted me 5k to swap the wing. I’m trying to figure out if it can be done on my hangar. Paul you got a hell of a deal. The part I’m going after goes into the fuel tank. The 2 shops I talked to said the wing would be the cheaper option. Did you take any before pics?

It’s pitted deep. If you look close you can see scratches on the tails of the rivets. It’s been messed with. I’m at repair the spar or replace the wing. Anyone done it? Hell no it will not be going back to the msc. That would be like burning money.

Well the Mooney service center that did the inspection before I bought it says it’s no problem. Everyone else said it’s a no go. From my understanding you get 10% of the thickness to work with so I say fix it. Now what’s the best way to do that?

We found trouble in my wing. What do you guys think? I’m balls deep into this plane so I’m going to fix it. What is the best way to go about that? The location is next to the fuel tank close to where the roll cage attaches.

I used CAD to make mine. Cardboard Aided Design. It worked.

From what I remember the head of the bolt is milled down on the Mooney part. I’m thinking a regular AN will not fit. I think that what is on the main struts.

Also if you have J baffles I could trace them to make copies. That is what we did to make new baffles for my F.

Both of you are in Georgia so anything I can do to help you would help me too. Let me know if you ever need a hand. I want to get a better idea of what is needed to do the swap. I wasn’t sure if the old cowl flap handle would have enough travel for the J cowl flaps. The J has the in trail middle stop that we don’t have.

It also looks to me like only the front end of the baffles where the air box is need to be changed. I made new baffles for my F cowl so I can bring the old part to see if it’s different.

Is your cowl flap handle from a J or can you use the old cable and knob?

If you do owner assist mx I would like to give you some help the next time you take off the cowl. I want to take pictures of the firewall. I’m in south Fayette county so it would be easy for me to get over to you.

I have the M20J cowl. I want to get a list of what the rest of the parts are. I think over time I should be able to get the factory parts off wrecked J’s. Sabermech’s cowl looks great and I would be interested. I don’t have details on it. He has other business interests and who knows when it will be available. The M20J swap was a stc so my thought is it may be easier to get one time approval. I would like to gather the parts needed to do a swap.

What are all the parts? I would like to move forward on the cowl swap.

I’m just over 6’4”/250#. I fit in a 67’ M20F just fine.

Thanks for posting pics. I have never seen a M22 in the wild. That gear looks like it came off a piper to me. Not at all what I’m used to seeing on a Mooney.

EI tech support has been great. They pick up when you call and have been most helpful. I used the lower number resistor on the tach. It is a bit jumpy below 1000 rpm. I think I’m going to let it ride for a bit. I tried not to use the EI wire crimps if I didn’t have to. I did use them on the egt’s and don’t have any problem with that yet. I had the prop IRAN inspected and wasn’t sure if I was getting enough rpm static. I fly from a 2400’ strip and want to be sure I’m getting full power. Also did the 500 hr. Mag inspection. I will do a compression check and verify the timing again. Time to wrap the annual and fly.

When I moved the audio panel up it hit the roll cage. I will end up putting a plate over the hole.

Here is what I’m doing.

I’m wrapping up some major upgrades to my M20F. I added an EI 30 P+C. I have a couple issues with it. During full throttle run up I got 2550 RPM. Is that about normal? The other issue is high fuel pressure. Pressure is jumpy in the high 20’s and will hop up to 30.2 psi. I don’t think it’s adjustable. I know the pump is a new one from Tempest. The plane is new to me and I am wrapping up the upgrades and can’t wait to start flying it!

I was thinking too lean at low rpm. I would check intake to see one is hanging down a bit.

Read continental sid97-3g. Find a good mechanic that has the equipment to do the work. Sounds like your idle mixture is off at a minimum. The sid says how much rpm rise you should get at 600 rpm I think when you go to cut off. I had to go through this with my Beechcraft.

I have had good luck with Lock N Lube. It doesn’t cost much and saves some time.