PT20J

It was the wrong serial number.

In a sense, that data plate is the airplane. If you have data plate, you can start collecting spare parts and assemble them (none being from the original airplane) and slap the data plate on it and as far as the FAA is concerned you have an airplane. But, if you have an original airplane and the data plate is lost, stolen or destroyed, you have to jump through a lot of hoops to get it replaced. Case in point: Only a few hundred DC-3s were built before WW II. Most of the production aircraft were C-47s or other military variants. After the war, Douglas converted a lot of military airplanes to DC-3Cs. The museum I used to volunteer for had one and after some research we determined that the data plate was not correct. It may have been switched from another airplane. It took two years of working with Boeing (that now owns the DC-3 type certificate) and the FAA to finally get a new data plate which I (very carefully) riveted in place.

No, we all care because that's how we learn. So, bad install. No one said, by the way, that your problem was due to "crappy piece of used avionics." My original comment was just that it appeared from your posts that it was used equipment (which adds a layer of uncertainty) and you should take it back to whomever installed it for remediation - which I am assuming is how you solved your problem. I have no idea what this means. But my guess is that you buy used equipment because you don't want to pay for new, you don't like to pay shop rates to get it fixed when it doesn't work, and you hope to get answers from Mooneyspace volunteers because it it free.

You could email Frank Crawford (fcrawford@mooney.com) and see if Mooney has any in stock. You might have buy the entire switch but he can tell you what's in stock and verify the part number. He can't quote price or sell you one -- for that you have to call your favorite Mooney Service Center. There is a used switch on eBay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/364947196227?itmmeta=01J2M96CJN6SDCTTENXFE0VF35&hash=item54f88c4943:g:LsYAAOSw5PFma13P&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8Pk9qnsghmCeFHAzgwrzy%2FWDsMzZe76jZ9iKtNoSYheYY8uSdmJwqZY2m8%2BLeL8ID65urDXqz3Fl5RzqDcQUPBfrVe6qJYEDmcvq5FWB9u4jorb8E5MX78dvL3qjofyG86nShwVpNuiHrR4llhXGoZO1KJu2MSbWWgBHEPnYNnmic9rtxZC9BxeJXZM53ttX5ECMFwZHTG7bafZ0krvUxbk0XCQlIZdZnVPKmEgDsVvqz9iNdl8yKmp3ieqpTjlAWzvM5Gm2Q5V3hxeVXCLwvq3YBygO5aYgALXpj84nwvwZZcni19eDE1cAtgFGieCzyQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR7TJmYmVZA This one might be an option: https://www.avionicsmall.com/products/landing-gear-switch

Later models had a piano wire. It looks like the bracket and the moveable part on the trim screw don't line up and this put a side load on the threaded portion which eventually caused a stress fracture. Since there are threads left on both ends of the broken part, I would try to find a female threaded barrel with the same thread dimensions and use it to reconnect the two ends after bending the bracket slightly to align them. You should probably use a die to clean up the threads before trying to screw on the barrel.

Mine heats up enough within a minute to burn your hand if you were to grab it. Are you sure someone didn't mistakenly replace it with a 28V unit? Or, maybe there is a bad connection somewhere (which would be a problem because if it's dropping voltage enough to affect the pitot heater, it's probably getting hot).

mpc26ow.pdf

Probably a relay or microswitch. It will continue to work until it doesn't and then you can find the bad part. Fortunately for me, when that happened both times were close to home base. Plane flies really slow with the gear down

G5s are already installed so I'll bet a shop that has done this before could do it in 1-2 weeks depending on what they run into with the airframe. There isn't really any troubleshooting. It's all digital and there are built in ways to test the installation completely on the ground. You just have to mount the servos, GMC, Go Around and yoke switches and circuit breakers and run power and CAN bus.

If you fly IFR, I would prioritize the AP. With modern GPS navigators you need to do a lot more pregaming than in the old days and it's hard to fly precisely on instrument while pushing buttons and turning knobs without the autopilot. And if you blow an altitude and cause a loss of separation you're likely going to hear from the FAA. Ever since the APS course and LOP became a thing, a some folks just wouldn't fly without an engine monitor. But, everyone flew for decades without them. You can even run LOP without one. Just lean until it gets rough and richen slightly just until it smooths out. How many degrees LOP is that? Who knows? Who cares? It's as lean as you can run smoothly.

What brand?

I’m based on a 3000’ strip with taxiways at 1000’ and 2000’. Unless there’s a gusty crosswind, I always make the 1000’ exit.

I’ve always had a soft spot in my heart for the Archer. It’s really well designed and was a nice step up from a C-172. It has the most benign stall of any airplane I have flown and is easy to land smoothly and short. I flew them a lot years ago and also did a fair bit of instruction in them.

Have you called the manufacturer? msacarbs.com

It's kind of a mess. I haven't flown a G1000 with ADS-B In, so I don't know what peculiarities it may have. But I have noticed some interesting things with ForeFlight and the GTX 345/ GTN/ G3X combo: 1. ForeFlight when connected to the internet seems very reliable in depicting TFRs from the official source: tfr.faa.gov (ADS-B uses the same database). "Stadium" TFRs for major sporting events are not included in the FAA database, but ForeFlight uses other data to depict these also. ForeFlight caches whatever it receives and so if you connect it to the internet before flight, it will show what was then-current even if it receives no ADS-B data. If it is receiving ADS-B data, it ignores the internet data. 2. On ADS-B, textual NOTAMS (including NOTAM-TFR) are usually received fairly quickly, but the graphics are transmitted separately and are more data intensive and may not show up for some time on the GTN map. 3. Garmin claims that the original problem I reported (some TFRs not being depicted) has been fixed by software releases for the GTN and GTX 345 earlier this year. The problem was that if a TFR was active for more than one day, the software only depicted it on the first day. However, there was recently a VIP TFR in the Seattle area that was depicted on the GTN but not the G3X. I reported this to Garmin and so far they have no idea why. So, it's a good idea to always get a weather briefing and check the TFRs because the ADS-B information is sometimes missing some.

Just to be clear, Lasar is a MSC. There is nothing special except that that previous owner made a decision to focus on selling parts and used to stock a lot of inventory. Every MSC can order parts from Mooney and they all pay the same price but set their own retail prices. Lately Lasar has been raising its retail prices so it pays to shop around.

Better question is what's it worth to you?

Yes, just comparing to power chart in POH and I also noted that the airspeed is slower than I would expect for the indicated % power. There was a thread about this on BT IIRC. Garmin doesn’t publish the algorithm. I know George Braly has stated repeatedly that all the engine monitors are inaccurate in calculating power except the Cirrus Perspective for which he supplied a proprietary algorithm.

% Power is set up in configuration mode. It uses rpm, MAP, fuel flow. You input whether the engine is Lycoming or Continental and whether it’s NA or turbocharged and the rated power at max rpm and the MAP for rated power if turbo. It’s pretty accurate LOP but reads higher than actual (maybe about 5% high - I haven’t really paid a lot of attention to it) ROP.

No. No one has the time to monitor all the forums is the claim. Even Trek got too busy to check in here very often. Mostly he did when one of us emailed him that there was a thread he really ought to look at. When Garmin does post something, it’s usually on BeechTalk because they long ago figured out that there are a lot of non-Beech folks on BT and that forum got them the widest distribution. Or so Joey Ferreyra told me. I’ve found Garmin support great if you ask a simple question (that you probably could have found yourself buried somewhere in the documentation). But if you ask a sophisticated question, results vary widely.

Interesting. I’ve always heard that graphite is bad for exhaust parts - that’s why you aren’t supposed to label them with a pencil. And, I didn’t know until now that C5-A contained any graphite. According to the SDS it has about half as much graphite as copper. Maybe it’s not enough to cause a problem. I’ve always used it on the tail pipe ball joint. Any metallurgists about? EDIT: I checked AWI’s website and they also approve C5-A. I just like the McFarlane stuff for the slip joints because it is water thin and will wick into the joint without disassembling anything.

Try calling the OEM https://www.aerosonic.com/repair-oh. Dumb question, but did you verify voltage at the pitot tube itself?

There is a little leakage on my clamped joint but it's small and on the outside and I've always thought it probably happens before everything heats up. I remember whenever I started a Beaver there would be a big puff of exhaust from under the top back of the cowling (radials always have some oil in the exhaust from the lower cylinders when they start) from a slip joint that hadn't heated up yet.

Ross, I'm pretty sure that is a clamp to hold the two pieces of pipe together. It looks just like a common saddle clamp used to connect parts of auto exhausts. There should only need to be one slip joint per exhaust pipe. On my airplane, the clamp is tight and that joint doesn't move. It sounds like yours is just loose. I don't think the Mouse Milk lasts past the first heat cycle. I've started using the McFarlane DAM exhaust lube because it will wick in without taking things apart.

Whoever installed the GFC 500 trim should have checked out the trim system. There is a spec on max. run time stop to stop. The Garmin trim servo is geared up to meet the spec and this reduces the available torque at the trim shaft. If there is much friction in the trim system, it will not meet the run time spec. Randomly throwing used parts at it is not a good solution. It doesn't seem that your mechanic is very familiar with Mooneys. If I were you, I would take this to a Mooney Service Center where there are mechanics that are very familiar with Mooney trim systems. There is a list of MSCs on Mooney.com.