PT20J

Apparently the internal battery is used to keep some memory alive to store the GPS constellation almanac.

You will need to completely remove the fitting and clean the threads. Since it is steel, it is unlikely to be damaged. Coat it with sealant leaving the bottom two threads clean (I suggest Armite LP-250) and reinstall it.

Apparently, I'm not the only one that has had leaky NPT fittings. I once had a gas water heater replaced in my home and while watching the plumber connect the gas line, and always wanting to learn from those with more experience, I asked if he used Teflon tape or pipe dope. He said he used two wraps of tape AND pipe dope. I suggested that that seemed like overkill and he replied that he was tired of having to return to fix leaks.

Interesting -- how do you know it needs replacement? It's a primary cell, so it doesn't get recharged.

I believe that BK tried to design the KFC 150 to work like the KFC 200 so pilots would not have to learn a new system. I had the KFC 200 in my 1978 M20J and had the KAP 150 in the 1994 M20J and the logic is the same. The KFC 150 is a really good autopilot. It doesn't have some of the vertical modes of the newer GFC 500, but it flies GPS approaches well especially if you have a Garmin or Aspen that provides GPSS capability and with a WAAS navigator, it will fly LPV with GS. To understand how it can do LPV requires backtracking to the original design. APR mode arms the GS. But for the GS to go active requires that the navigator send an ILS Energize signal to the autopilot. This normally occurs when a conventional Nav/Com is tuned to an ILS frequency. When a GNS 430W (or any WAAS navigator) is used, the ILS Energize signal is sent when either an ILS is tuned in VLOC mode, or a GPS approach with vertical guidance is active in GPS mode. Skip

With the push-pull throttle, it's a microswitch mounted to the cable immediately behind the console. Stand on your head in the pilot's footwell, loosen the screws on the clamps and slide the bracket along the cable. It may be easier to reach if you remove the side panel which is screwed on.

Mine, too. I always wondered what that hole was for. I wonder if that's where the the fuel cap lanyard (removed by AD for hanging up the fuel level float) used to attach. Anyone know for sure?

A lot of LED retrofit instrument panels are too bright for my taste. Maybe pilots are afraid of the dark.

There are slight variations in the steel tube engine mounts. Mooney shims the Lord mounts at the factory probably with a jig. My M20J service manual says to note the position of the washers when removing the engine and for engine installation to position them in the same sequence as when removed. If that isn't possible, then I think aligning with the cowl is probably the best you can do.

I don’t think so. I put a snubber on it and I cannot see much fluctuation now on the G3X display, but if I dump the data and look at it it’s still observable though very much reduced. I’m beginning to think that it was always there but just damped out by the old analog gauge. I didn’t notice it until I had the G3X installed, and there were no changes to the plumbing; G3X and its transducer are all that was changed.

Yes. Here is the detail from the IPC. Your picture shows the old style ball and socket attachment to the mixture arm which sometimes separated. You should use a rod end. Skip

Typo -- I fixed it. Thanks.

I've seen it specified to prevent galling. JPI specifies steel fittings for the Floscan fuel flow transducers. Really, neither steel or aluminum will crack if they are not overtightened. Same for B nuts on flare fittings. I've had the most trouble getting fuel fittings to seal because fuel wicks well and is a solvent. My Garmin fuel pressure transducer was installed by an A&P using EZ Turn and it leaked. I reinstalled it with Permatex 3 and it leaked. The IA at the museum suggested Armite -- said it never fails -- and it has been dry as a bone since. Armite is mostly lead in an oil based carrier so it lubricates the threads and fills any gaps and it's impervious to solvents. Skip

NPT fittings can be a pain. They are tapered threads that form an interference fit. They need to be tight enough to deform the threads slightly to seal, but there is no torque spec. Usually half to a full turn after they get tight is about right. It's kind of a feel thing. Angled fittings are especially difficult because you have to get them tight and clocked properly and you shouldn't back them up if you go too far because that relieves the stress on the threads and can cause them to leak. Here are a few tricks I've used. 1. If a fitting leaks, throw it away and start with a new one. Sometimes the threads just don't mate properly and fittings are inexpensive. 2. Use aluminum fittings rather than steel if possible. The aluminum deforms easier for a better interference fit and is less likely to crack the boss if overtightened. 3. Aluminum fittings threaded into aluminum can gall. To prevent this use Armite LP-250 on the threads. It the best sealant I've found. It seals and lubricates the threads and it won't gall, seize or leak. It is available in small tubes from McMaster-Carr, but for some reason doesn't show up on their online catalog so you have to call them to order it. Skip

There is a note in the J service manual stating that it can be removed, so you might check your service manual.

Check, but I think it's a 5/16-18 thread. You can buy a generic part called a lifting shoulder eyebolt (the lifting part is important to make sure it is strong enough, the shoulder is what causes it to seat against the wing skin when tightened).

I had an I0-360 that leaked quite a bit. It came out on the belly. The only time I got a mist on the windshield was the front crankshaft seal. They can be replaced with a tool that stretches them over the prop flange, but you have to take the prop off. It doesn't take much to make a noticeable film on the windshield.

I respectfully submit that you (and others) are missing the point. The benefit to you for being a member of AOPA (and EAA, and others) is their lobbying efforts. The FAA didn't think up basic med. -- it was an effort by AOPA and EAA. Now you want to say, well now that you got that done, I don't need you anymore. BTW, can I use your website for free? When it comes time again to fight user fees or airports shutting down fueling with 100LL or whatever, you will be thankful that these guys are lobbying for you. Congress watches membership numbers closely. The lobbying power of AOPA comes from having large membership numbers. Phil Boyer recognized that and put a lot of effort into programs to build up the membership. If we let it dwindle, Congress won't care about AOPA because it will become politically insignificant. It's the same problem with complaining about the cost of parts from Mooney. The company is on life support. If it dries up support will be worse. Better to pay too much to support them through this rough time. I want to preserve my ability to fly. That's why I'm proud to be a lifetime member of AOPA, EAA, Seaplane Pilots Association and California Pilots Association. BTW, how much Baker gets paid is a red herring. AOPA pays what they have to pay to get quality leadership, just like everyone else. And, Baker was already pretty wealthy before joining AOPA. Skip

What’s the POH say? Mine says this. Over voltage relay is in the voltage regulator. Check all the wiring first..

Exactly. The command bars are simply a visual display of what the autopilot is doing. The only difference between FD and AP modes is engagement of the servos.

You're right. The KFC 200 is analog. Big old box of circuit cards in the back of the airplane. The panel mount KAP/KFC 150s are digital with a microprocessor. Those three are attitude based. The KAP 140 is digital but rate based. The GFC 500 is digital, of course, and I believe primarily attitude based with some rate based computations.

There seems to be a little bit of confusion about how these devices play together. It might help to start with the original KFC-150 configuration. Attitude is fed to the autopilot from the KI 256 and the autopilot drives the KI 256 flight director command bars. There is no connection between the KI 256 and the other avionics. Lateral information (heading, course deviation) is fed to the autopilot from the KI 525A HSI. Not shown is that the nav radios drive the CDI and GS needles. This information is also fed to autopilot. In the current installation, the GI 275 substitutes for the KI 256 and the G5 HSI substitutes for the KI 525A. It’s really that simple The only new feature added is GPSS that allows the autopilot to follow GPS roll steering commands (to allow such features as turn anticipation, procedure turn, holding patterns, DME arcs). This adds a slight complexity because the autopilot now uses NAV for VORs and HDG for GPS nav, and you have to turn GPSS off in order to have HDG follow the G5 heading bug. Skip

I wasn't thinking major or minor, but that a field approval might be required to install an unapproved part. Spruce sells a lot of unapproved parts to homebuilders. I agree, however, that this is overkill. For something like this where you are replacing a factory part with another equivalent part it doesn't even seem to be a modification. Like when I replaced my fuel tank drains which I logged as preventive maintenance.

Actually, if you sit with the generic G5/GI AFMS' and go through each option and figure out which box to check, it will provide you with a great deal of understanding of your system.

I looked and it actually says Not FAA Approved. 337 field approval required for certified installation. So, my guess is that the manufacturer doesn't have a PMA.