0TreeLemur

I've got the same issue. It's on my to-do list, but hasn't risen to the top yet. When I first flew my J in January, the heat was nice. That first flight I pulled the air on, with heat off, and the air was still warm. After five minutes or so, it cools down to "not hot, not cool". It seems that the hot air valve leaks pretty badly. Once an Alabama hangar once becomes a place where one can spend much time (latter half of Sept.) I'll take a look at that.

Thanks for posting. I'm ineligible by S/N.

In the shaky video the aircraft appeared in a flat spin.

Is not missile. Is not bomb. Prigozhin simply fell.

Curious- what makes one "2900 eligible"? I recall reading that the UL increase required redesign of the steel cage with some beefed up members. That sound muy expensivo as a retrofit.

I've used them. They are quite affordable. I think the whole set for our C model was about $100 a few years ago. The C set seemed all inclusive with different styles for different model years included. Since then I've had them make some custom labels for me. They charge about $25 per sheet. E-mail them: aero@aerographics.com for current pricing.

I have read on these pages that there is a company called Belofram who makes parts for diaphragms for pneumatic actuators. I've also read that if you contact them with the correct information in terms of fold type and dimensions, they will sell you one to fix a piece of industrial or farm equipment. If you search MS for this topic you might find someone who knows more about it than I do. I kind of lost interest once I figured out how to patch the step actuator diaphragm on our previous C model and didn't follow up on it any more. I think that some have had luck with them, without using the word "airplane".

Well, thinking about it, I cut scotchbrite into 1/4" strips, and worked it around in the bottom of the contact well with a small flat-bladed screwdriver. Three times per plug seemed to do the trick. Measured resistance of all eight plugs as 1200-1300 ohms. That's a solution. Before cleaning the varnish off the contact surface, I couldn't get a reliable resistance measurement.

A question: I've got the Tempest fine wire plugs out of our IO-360 for cleaning. Doing the resistance check, I notice some tarnish down in the contact well. Anybody have a good method for cleaning that?

Folks are ditching their vacuum AI's like crazy for digital. I need a vacuum AI as a backup to the single Aspen PFD in my J. I bought a serviceable one off eBay and sent it to a shop for OH. Total cost $700 for a freshly overhauled Sigma Tech 5000-37, which has internal lighting.

From the factory, our C had the poppy-red paint job shown in the top photo.

I just removed this from a frame and finished scanning it to post. Beat me by 30 seconds.

Not at all. The top category is >939 lb, which lets you fly with full 64 gallon tanks plus at least 556 lb of other stuff. I'm more interested in the low end of the distribution. Note in my profile that I have an '83J, before the MGW increase. I'm trying to get a sense for how heavy my bird is. I hope that explains why the poll is set up the way it is. Thanks to everyone who replies.

Interested to see what the range of UL for M20Js is. Please fill out the poll you own an M20J, or even if you used to own one.

One thing to keep in mind when draining the fuel to weigh an older Mooney is this: The fuel drains screw into a steel gusseted receptacle that is riveted in the bottom of the fuel tank where water sometimes accumulates. They corrode. Removing the fuel drain can damage them so be gentle. You'll find that in this case after screwing the fuel drain back in it doesn't completely seal. We discovered that problem in our '67C, and they replaced that steel receptacle when we had the tank resealed.

bump.

It depends on the location of the OAT probe. One well positioned probe is infinitely more valuable than a poorly positioned probe in the heatstream of the engine. My EDM-900 OAT probe is located maybe three inspection panels out on the left wing, way outside the heat influence of the engine. The magnetometer/temp sensor connected to the Aspen Pro is on the tail and consistently reads 4-5 degF higher then the wing mounted probe. It's not accurate, and throws off the TAS calcs done by the Aspen.

Calibration not necessary because ADS-B doesn't make the news, it just reports it. Then the FAA ignores it . I don't believe that the FAA software does anything with it automatically. I've read that controllers can access your extended squitter info, but generally don't. The only thing they get by default on their display is the good ol' mode C altitude readout, which was calibrated when you do your mandatory IFR Cert. test on the pitot-static system.

I heard this as: "A man with one watch always knows the exact time, right?"

The Hartzell Top Prop we bought a couple of years ago came with NYCO grease, and a nice big sticker on the hub saying that was the only acceptable grease. My A&P last annual said "What's NYCO grease?". Luckily I bought some and a grease gun before the annual and gave it to him. If only the paint would stay on the leading edge within 6" of the tip... That's another story. Some law firm could make coin organizing a class action on that one. I know of several people here on MS that have the same problem with the paint on Top Props.

Yes, we had to do that because the base flange on the PCU is thicker than the original governor on my C. What a P.I.T.A. Removing the originals was not fun. Especially in July in an Alabama hangar. Good luck.

The plastics in our '67 C were not that bad, but pretty cracked in places. In those locations, I used epoxy/fiberglas on the back side. When the epoxy oozed through the crack, using a Dremel I ground it down and used a pointy bit to restore the stipple, then painted all.

For me, it's when I'm flying in turbulence in IMC, a busy controller clears you a waypoint CRZZY, and you can't find CRAZY in the GPS, and they are too busy to ask for phonetic spelling, then then they tell you to descend, my passenger is feeling queezzy- then just as you find CRZZY, they tell you they have a rerouting, notify when ready to copy. In my opinion, the flying isn't the hard part. We practice every approach to minimums. It's all the other stuff happening that sometimes makes single-pilot IFR so difficult.

Maybe- if they totally analog ratchet-master 9000 included the ability to advance the timing!

I've dodged many thunderstorms this summer using the Stormscope WX10A in our J. This year is my first experience with one. Wow. Great technology. The Stormscope is based on differential reception of "sferics", the radio frequency noise produced by lightning. The receiver is connected to two coil antennas on the belly. It is quite accurate in azimuth. I've done some research to better understand how it works. As I understand it, the unit estimates azimuth this by measuring the time delay between reception of the strike signal by two coils separated by about 8 inches! That's why the processor for Stormscopes is so heavy. It is a very precise instrument. Stormscopes are not so accurate in range. To estimate the range to the strike it uses an assumed relationship between signal and range, which is often a pretty poor approximation. However, with a good measurement of the azimuth combined with the ADS-B composite radar obs on the iPad, you can see the storm and measure the range. Mine sometimes seems to pick up a lot of noise when flying at lower altitudes. Above maybe 5k AGL that goes away. I love it.