Niko182

Just a warning to everyone that RC usually isn't a cheap hobby. it gets extremely expensive quickly if you fall in love with it. I will say it was a bargain compared to aviation. You get what you pay for is also a big reality in models. most of the cheap stuff can be bought online but there are no replacement parts. Id look at anything horizon hobby. all their products have all parts to rebuild the entire model, so if you crash, repair is still possible.

https://www.horizonhobby.com/product/aircraft-buying-guide/aircraft-under-%24100/aircraft-under-%24100/champ-rtf-hbz4900 I'd start off with these. I was into RC big time before i started flying. thats a great starter.

Id say do a IFD540 with a lynx ngt9000 transponder. Save yourself the hassle and do the EDM 900 instead of the 830. when your gauges start to die, youll be happy you did the 900, instead of the 830.

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Id be more than happy to if youre fine with flying with a youngster. I fly out of john wayne and camarillio is usually a pretty fun location with some great food. Nik

Id say older bravo or ovation with FIKI. there are 3 or 4 eagles that have FIKI, but I wouldn't bet my luck finding one of those. One of those came for sale about a year ago and it had FIKI but still had 1080lbs useful load. Anywhere up to around 15K bravo or Ovation doesn't matter, they both will still climb decently. In my eagle, I still see like 5 to 6 hundred ft per minute at 13k. its not a bravo, but Its pretty good for an NA bird. Nearly all the Long body moonies are some of the best long range 2 person cross country machines. I can top of my tanks with 100 gallons and I still have 530 lbs of useful load. and that should get me easily over 1200nm if I cruise at 170knots and 12 gallons per hour. Lycoming or Continental. Pick your poison. Whichever way you go it still isnt cheap.

Lately other than takeoff i try not to run the engine high powered yet. Im stoll running around 21 inches and 2400rpm in cruise which gives me about 175 ish knots. Ill start running it fast when i can catch up with the aircraft. Not saying im behind, just saying things happen alot faster at 310hp, including the takeoff, climb, descent, and landing, and i have no need to firewall the power as of now.

OAT was ranging from 2 to 10 degrees C. Takeoff is full power, and the moment the gear and the flaps go up, I pull the RPM back to 2400RPM. Climb is WOT at 2400rpm. I'm not farmiliar with power settings yet, but I run the iddenticale EGT's I used to see with the 244HP rated engine, so I would guess the CHT's would be around the same. Even with the lower than usual flowflow on takeoff, I still dont see temps of the CHT's passing 350. Is it bad that the cylinders stay cool, or is this just me over thinking. FYI, I also run ROP. I'm not ready to risk destroying my engine yet. thatll come when the EDM 900 comes in to play.

The 310HP STC was currently done on the Eagle I've been putting around in, and I cant help but notice I have really low CHT's. When I say low CHT's I mean during takeoff they don't seem to break 350, and in cruise all of them are below 300. When I was flying the 244hp 2 blade version, the CHT's would be higher around 310 to 330, and takeoff would show around 380 , but now unless I lean it out to the point where EGT's can be above 1500, I cant seem to get CHT's above 300. The only issue I have so far with the STC, is that the Fuel Flow needs to be increased to the max of 27.3. Its at 26.3 and EGTs are all around 1450 on takeoff which is a bit high. even with the EGT's this high, they still dont break 350. During descent they are around 260 to 280 degrees with 18 to 20 inches and 2400rpm. Don't get me wrong I love this STC. The way better Takeoff performance, plus the 1140 pound useful load (my goal is 1200Lbs) is absolutely amazing, but it just seems weird to me that the CHT's are so low. Better cool than hot I guess but let me know what you guys think. Thanks Nik

How about you get the 540. That should set you back about 6k for a trade in program or about 4 to 5k if you try to sell the 530w yourself. Then take all the money you saved, and install a JPI 900 with a new panel. You can clean up your panel a ton. While youre at it get rid of some of the suff you dont use. I dont know how much adf is used up in canada, but its not really used in the US anymore. A 540, jpi 900, and panel should still be cheaper than doing a 750 alone. Selling the adf and other unused products in the panel should get you maybe a couple Hundred bucks to some thousands back. I learned here, that an engine monitor should be the number one modification to be done. I see you have a 700, but getting a 900 allows you to get rid of the old engine gauges. Im sure others here will agree with me.

Not gonna lie. As nice as don kayes panel is, 3 aspen maxes, ifd 540, 440, jpi 930, and an stec 3100, will provide practically the same as a g500 txi, gtn 750, 650, gfc 500, and the eis. Both will offer emense capabilities, and both will lighten the wallet quite a lot.

No. I believe the avidyne includes its own version of a 210. Its included in the box.

I liked this joke. It was funny

If youre looking at aspens, id take the 530w out and slide an avidyne 540 in there. If youre planning on keeping The g5's, the 750 will work great with that. If youre doing aspen, i like the 540.

Jays aircraft mech at john wayne is pretty good. He does straight forward work and hes a straight forward guy. Also a certified Cessna Center.

I believe you are mixing up the BK KFC 230 and The Genesys Stec 3100. 2 very different systems and one is actually being produced. the other is still "being certified".

Don't know if you saw this already but its an entire thread about the 3100. The 3100 will integrate just fine with the G5's IIRC correctly, and STEC's plan is to do the STC Beginning of Jan. The already had 15 PO's, so the STC is scheduled, but I believe anyone who places an order before the STC is issued gets a 3 year warranty on the Box, and 1 years on the servos, instead of the 2 years on the box, and the 1 year on the servos, that normally comes with it. I will say that Stec did a superb job just putting all the Mooneys under one STC instead of splitting it up like Garmin. All Mooney from the M20A, to the M20S will be under the STC excluding the G1000/GFC700 birds. Looks like a promising Autopilot, and from the reviews I've seen on beachtalk and youtube, looks like people are liking it a lot.

I took the Written when I was ready for the checkride. Its nice to get it out of the way at the beginning, but id take lessons before taking the written for my PPL. for IFR, commercial, and more, It makes sense to take the test before, but for the PPL id take it mid way through.

I believe its because you need a 28v system. 14v doesnt allow fiki IIRC

J's with fiki are quite rare compared to O's, M's, and TN's.

Remember that you're comparing a fully decked out G1000 ovation against a J with steam gauges and a 430W. not saying that the Steam gauges are bad, but Its hard to compare that aircraft to yours. I think its better to compare your J to a 94 to 04 R. then you're looking at a plane that costs 180K instead of 325K

pretty sure its not used on the 900. I thought it was only used on the 930, if its way out of the viewpoint.

I'd remove the ASI, the altimeter and switch it out with an L3, Garmin G5, or MC S.A.M. I would strongly recommend at doing this since I saw a video where the Pitot tube blocked up, and the Aspens just gave up completely. the complete AHRS system practically shut down. I believe it happens at 11:30. If your aspens decide to do this during IMC and you dont have a backup AH, it puts you in a really bad place.

It might be a problem as simple as your RPM Gauge. The wire on my RPM gauge cables touch the engine block and would cause resistance on the cables causing the RPM to jump from 2400 RPM to like 26 or 2700RPM. I bought a Trutach 2 RPM gauge and found out it was the gauge and not the prop or the governor. I think its most likely this. And id recommend starting with this. doesnt hurt to start with the cheapest option.

What about anodizing it?