bob865

These are what I put in my plane during all of my upgrades. Really bright! Qty: 12 in Cool (Bright) White https://www.aero-lites.com/product-page/aero-lites-aircraft-post-light-drop-in-led-replacement-for-ge-330-12-14vdc

Is Stefan Otto's relative?

I picked mine up about a month ago now and like everyone said above I got the first one free.

The way autopilot approvals seem to go, he probably meant 202x so he has a 10 year window and can still be correct.

Here is what I have posted on my panel for my E model. Maybe it will help. Pitch_Power Settings N413HM.xlsx

So a quick update....the cable adjustment fixed it. But now because of all of the attempts to get it to 2700, now it's over 2700 and we are working on dialing it in. Had the suspicion that would be the case so grabbed the control quickly and never let it happen to avoid an overspeed. Now we just have to get it dialed in.

This. Mine didn't have a gauge, just an idiot light that rarely worked right. I have one I bought from a fellow mooneyspacer to install but never did and now don't need it if you're interested.

Well, we did get an update on the governor late yesterday afternoon. The most recent finding is that when the avionics were installed the lever hits the transponder and kept the prop lever from reaching the full "high rpm" position. The cable was adjusted so now the "high RPM" position is slightly off of the transponder and she waiting on a test flight. Will report back with news.

I ordered mine from MacFarlane when I did my overhaul recently. I had the throttle quadrant version so I had to send my old cables in and have replacements made by example, but it worked well and they were great cables. https://www.mcfarlaneaviation.com/

I was finally able to get mine to work as well with an 8k resistor.

A few notes to add to follow up to questions above...... No work was done to the prop. It only had 300hrs on it at the time of overhaul with no issues before the work done so no work was done to the prop. I trust the RPM reading as it's read on the new engine monitor installed during the work and verified with an external gauge. It is not the low speed stop. If I jam the throttle forward faster than the governor can govern, it will hit 2700. However, it always hovers at 2600 otherwise. I have seen it as high as 2630 during an established climb, but it's rare.

Hello MooneySpace. I'm looking for some help with the RPM on my plane. We just overhauled the engine and replaced the governor with a new PCU5000 and can't get the engine past 2600 RPM. Before the overhaul with the old engine and governor, we would get between 2650 and 2680 on takeoff. My mechanic has adjusted on two different occasions and I'm not seeing any change in the RPM on takeoff. I was under the understanding that the max RPM should be 2700. Is this right? Has anyone had a similar issue in the past? Thanks!

Not a real advertising, but I laughed a lot and thought I should share.

Dimples make golf balls fly further.....think that works for airplanes too? Just call it a performance modification.

No. I had no issues with it. Bolt in replacement for me.

She's finally done! Picked her up from the AVI shop yesterday and put her on the scales. Was able to work on the RPM issue again and finally got it resolved. Turns out the right mag was on the wrong contact on the switch. I moved it and it immediately started working. The left mag, I had to go down to an 8k resistor to get it to work, but it works too! Gave her a shakedown flight and all seems to be good....mostly. We did find a few squawks, but I think that's to be expected with so much equipment. We have a loose connection to an EGT probe and to the manifold pressure sensor and a small adjustment needed for the governor. I can't get it past 2600 RPM. She's a extremely capable plane now. And when/if Garmin ever certifies the GFC500 for the E models, she'll be unstoppable.

That's no fun. We recently had a similar problem in a Cherokee. Smoke with no clear cause. Luckily we were on on the ground and able to troubleshoot. Found it was coming from the Com 2 radio. Strange thing is even though it was smoking, it was still receiving the ATIS! Was able to get home with the other radio and pulled it and sent it in for repair. Still a scary sight seeing smoke in the cockpit even when it's on the ground.

Thank you so much! I haven't been able to troubleshoot because she's been in the avi shop this whole time. The last word I got back from EI was to go down to 4k, but if you can let me know where you got it to work I'd rather have first hand knowledge instead of, "try 4k." I'm hoping they'll finish up the avi work next week and I can start working on this again. Do you know what you ended up using for your stock slick mag?

She's Alive!

Just minor update. Equipment is starting to appear in the panel! P.S: The Mongo yokes are going no where! I love them! And so unique.

For basic stuff Visio works pretty well....if you have a copy. I have a copy on my work PC and after a little trial and error it's pretty easy to use.

We overhauled the engine and installed a GPS, Transponder, 2nd G5, audio panel, and engine monitor. You can follow the upgrade here:

I'm down the road in Greenville, SC. Plane is currently in the shop for an avionics upgrade, but if you haven't found anyone by the time she's done I'd be happy to take you up.

I'll chime in as a long time tier downer. -Covers- I use one. It's a Bruce's cover I bought from a fellow MooneySpacer. It is a long one that covers the main part of the cabin and the engine. I do recommend covering the whole cowl if you do. It eliminates the need for cowling covers and covers the avionics bays so no water can seep in. It also protects the interior and the glass from UV which is a big issue for tied down planes. -Tie Downs- The problem with cheap screw in tie downs is where they crimp the metal. This reduces the effective size of the metal rod to less than half in most cases, plus creates a stress point where it can fracture. I bought these for when I was going to fly to Oshkosh before weather kept me at home. They looked to be much better because they were welded instead of crimped. I do have to say I've never used them, so I can only describe why I chose them. (https://smile.amazon.com/Gray-Bunny-GB-6873A4-Trampoline-Powder-Coated/dp/B07H2QF7L2/ref=pd_ybh_a_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=SFT8PGQ5NMWA6VG7QAXV) -Control Locks- I've never used them on my plane. I probably should, but with the pushrod controls and the PC system, they have always seemed to have enough resistance to wind. The only time I did anything different was when the hurricane was forecast to make it's way through upstate, SC. -Fuel system Protection- Keep your caps maintained. Enough said. Beyond that, learn to identify when the caps aren't installed correctly and don't let it happen. One more thing on fuel systems, unless you have bladders, keep your tanks full at all times. The fuel will prevent the sealant from drying out and cracking. My tanks started leaking because it sat around with half tanks. From then on, you could only fill it half full before it would leak. Also keep your gear donuts maintained. If they get hard, you're absorbing the shock load of that hard landing in all the structure of the fuel tank. It can cause seals to fail prematurely. Or at least it's a good story and reason to maintain something you should maintain anyway. -Paint Protection- Keep a good coat of wax on it. Let the wax become the sacrificial layer for when you wash/buff/polish so you aren't taking off too much paint. It will also help reduce how much the paint oxidizes leading to the need to wash/buff/polish.

She's in work. Stopped by the airport yesterday and checked on the progress and to put the EDC that was back from Electronics International back into the plane. All new cables for the antennas were pulled, the new transponder antenna was installed, the old loran antenna was removed, and he was starting to pull the cables and jacks for the audio panel. Hopefully they'll finish up next week if the holiday doesn't cause too much of a delay. Electronics International didn't find anything wrong in the EDC. The RPM inputs checked fine on the bench. This means I have something wrong in the wiring. I'm guessing we are on the wrong terminals on the switch, but I can't really troubleshoot right now. I've asked the AVI shop to check it when they put her back together. This did get me to thinking about odd things I did see when we started the engine. We didn't do a full run up since we didn't have any RPM feedback, but did run it long enough to check for leaks etc. We ran the governor and saw that it would adjust the prop, and checked the mag hookups to make sure they would ground and shutdown the engine, i.e. no hot mags. There were a few odd things that I did notice during the short run that I haven't really looked into yet because I haven't really had time, but with her getting close to coming out of the shop I'm starting to contemplate. The first is the engine appears to run massively rich at idle. With the mix set to full rich the engine stutters and gasps. If I pull the mix back to about half way, it smooths out and runs like a champ. Unfortunately I can't answer if it runs smooth at higher RPMs at full rich or not right now. The second things that I noticed is the oil pressure is at the bottom of green arc at idle, but it increased with RPM. Again, I don't know what the RPM was, but as the RPM increased it drifted into the upper yellow arc. I brought it back down to idle before I went any higher. Do these sound like normal new engine startup issues?