jaylw314

Stabilized approaches are overrated. Yes, the idea of not requiring any significant power or control changes on final is a crucial skill. But they are crucial only in turbojets which have a long lag-time (several seconds) between control adjustment and engine response. They can also land in close to zero ceilings. For most of us, I think we are okay making major configuration changes on short final as long as they are deliberate and planful, e.g. not to rescue a bad approach. On the other UNSTABLE approaches are bad. I agree we should not be flailing around at the controls after 500' AGL. Not that I do any flailing before that

You should be fine. IIRC, shock-cooling is a worry if you are starting at high power and high CHT. On final, you've already been at low power and low CHT for a few minutes, so any further cooling is not an issue. I think the reason most checklists do not call for opening cowl flaps on final is to reduce workload during short final. You shouldn't open them at your GUMPS check, because you might very well be at high power and high CHT right before that, otherwise it would make sense to include it as a prep for the go-around. That's a good enough reason for me to wait until after the go-around.

The TCDS for the IO-360 notes the following: "All models except IO-360-A1B6D and -A3B6D have optional timing of 20°BTC" That should mean you can get your A&P to switch it and only log it as a minor alteration if you have the A3B6?

Glidepath first. I'd actually cut throttle and INCREASE speed to near Vfe (115 KIAS) to maximize my descent rate. Once I'm on glidepath, it's trivial to bring the nose up and slow down to approach speed, and only takes about 20-25 seconds. Of course, if I'm under 500 ft AGL by the time I'm on glidepath, there's not enough time unless I'm suicidal. In practice, I know that if I cut the throttle and feed in full flaps at minimums on an ILS approach at 200' AGL, I can slow from 95 KIAS to 70 KIAS over the numbers (no slips required), and I'm trying to do all landings that way so that I'm being consistent.

My go around mental checklist has cowl flaps open AFTER cleaning up the plane. Things have slown down and the cylinders don't heat up THAT much in 10-15 seconds. "Flaps & flaps" is easy to say and remember, and the controls are right next to each other. Edit: Ooops. Looks like a bunch of people already commented on this

For the OP, what did you mean by "squirrely" before takeoff? Were you talking about just being busy in that phase, or actual directional control? Did you train in a Cessna? I notice that pilots moving from bungee-cord steering in Cessna's to rigid nosewheel steering in most other plane's take a while to figure out the need to suddenly kick in rudder when the nosewheel comes off the ground. The difference is even more pronounced in free-castering nosewheels like RV's and Grumman's (I think), where you don't move your feet at all when you rotate (since the rudder is already doing all the directional control). If that's the problem, practicing the rotation might help your discomfort. There is a line of thought that complex aircraft are not safe to do T&G's because there is little time between the takeoff phase and the landing phase. As such, you end up rushing your landing/GUMPS checklist, and the big consequence in complex aircraft is, of course, forgetting the landing gear. Of course, T&G's get you more practice quickly. My CFI said there is no right answer but showed me how. He left it to me to decide for myself. I've got about 100 hours and 150 landings in my 201, so I do still do T&G's. My rationale is that I only spend 6 seconds in the roundout/flare per landing, so in total I only have practiced that phase of flight for 900 seconds, or about 15 minutes. T&G's allow me to get more landings in early on. Maybe when I've gotten a few hundred landings under my belt can I be assured I'm good enough I don't have to practice. I do T&G's on a 3600' runway. If I land in the first third, there's plenty of room. Raise flaps for 3 seconds to get to 1/2 flaps (or just land with 1/2 flaps), then full throttle. When passing 100', retrim, raise gear, then flaps up, fuel pump off and cowl flaps open. I do NOT retrim until after applying full power, I want to learn the muscle memory of needing to push the nose down on go-around's. It's heavy, but possible to hold with just one hand. I make it a point not to turn crosswind until 700' AGL, and not to turn downwind until pattern altitude. This results in a nice, wide pattern, and I then make it a point to configure for cruise when I turn downwind (cowl flaps closed, decrease throttle and prop, and lean near peak). Now when I'm abeam the numbers and do my GUMPS check, everything is set as it normally is before the GUMPS check.

So, as it turns out, this is a T1 lamp with a base type called a "Pogo" for obvious reasons. The WL-7049 is unfortunately a 24V lamp, so at 12V it is too dim. There is a series of bulbs from WAMCO listed as WL-7041, WL-7043, WL-7049 and WL-565-101 which are either 24v or 5v bulbs. Some are also made by Chicago Miniature and listed as CM-7049. It turns out the 7046 bulb is the only 12v bulb, and is used as a flap indicator light on some Mooney's, and listed as WI-7046 (made by Western Instruments). But for the life of me, I cannot find any suppliers. I think that means I need to have my A&P replace the light with a different annunciator. Can I just order one of these and have him replace it?

Rivnuts? At least their installation is easier than nutplates, but they're still pretty permanent. On the other hand, maybe you have a commitment problem?

That's an interesting idea. I'm having my annual done a couple weeks before the install, I'll ask my local shop if they can do that. Thanks!

No, the Garmin install manual only specifies the pinouts for the annunciator, and leaves it up to the A&P to determine what annunciator to install and how.

Thanks, that's helpful info. I have a blade type antenna and it is right under the footwell, so cable routing should be quick. I don't need the traffic and audio alerts, so I'm hoping it will be quick.

I was surprised too, but I was talking to a sales guy who may not have known. I'll talk to Chris from the shop as I close in on the install date in August.

For you guys that had the KT74 put in, how many actual hours did the avionics shop charge for? Pacific Coast Avionics is estimating 16 hours, but they've not done an install with the G530W. I can't imagine it should take 16 hours for the one wire to the 530, install the airspeed switch and replace the RG58 with RG400. @M20S Driver yours sounds like it took 8-10 hours?

I have a GPS annunciator lamp for my Garmin 530W that burned out. The bulb is some weird type I cannot find for sure on the internet. It has "WT-7046" stamped on the base. A search for the ID on Google was a fail. The closest I could find was WAMCO's WL-565-101, which looks right (the second photo). However, it looks like it actually has "WL-565-101" stamped on the base. It's also $64 on Skygeek, although I found it at Newark for $10. Anyone seen this before and can confirm the part numbers? I'm kind of annoyed that they didn't just use a standard bulb.

Sorry to hear that. Out of curiousity, do you have engine monitor recordings leading up to this? I'd be interested to see if you had the EGT spikes that Mike Busch suggests sometimes precedes exhaust valve failures. https://www.aopa.org/news-and-media/all-news/2014/july/08/savvy "The symptom of an incipient failure is a slow, rhythmic EGT oscillation with a frequency of the general order of one cycle per minute and an amplitude of 30-to-100 degrees Fahrenheit" Good luck with the new cylinder!

That's not great, but not terrible. My GAMI spread is 0.7 gph, and I can get about 20-30 degF LOP at most power settings. It still doesn't explain the high indicated fuel flow rates...

Holy spit! Does the rest of your cowl line up? What the heck is going on there?

The trickiest parts are usually: Figuring out how to get the old oil from the drain plug to your bucket (a quick drain and hose makes his trivial). Figuring out how to get the oil filter off without getting oil everywhere while spinning it off (I tape a plastic shopping back under and around the oil filter to catch the dripping oil, and I use a 1" ratcheting box wrench to loosen the oil filter) Figuring out how to safety wire the new oil filter in tight quarters (lots of puncture wounds and cursing) I figure three oil changes a year, I do two and one more at annual.

I just can't imagine it is a technique problem, since ROP at that MAP and RPM, that FF should be near best power, and those settings should get you even faster. What does your POH say at those settings? Ifyou are slow because you are actually LOP, then you may have a FF instrument problem, although it's hard to imagine that being off by more than 10%--check your FF calibration setting and note your takeoff FF should be between 17-19. Couldyour pitot static be wonky? Check your IAS against your GPS speed. Is your RPM gauge accurate? Again, this would not be an issue LOP, but if you are ROP, your power settings might be lower than expected. I have a hard time imagining that a rigging problem could account for 10-15 knots alone, it would have to be pretty bad. Anyone lose that much speed from rigging before?

That still seems pretty high FF for 135 KTAS. If you're LOP, you prettty much have to be getting 145-150 KTAS wtih 9.4 GPH no matter what combination of altitude, throttle and RPM you are at Wait, I'm looking at your panel and not sure what airspeed is KTAS. You've got

oooooooooooooooooooooh, nice

Not to hijack the thread, but for ADS-B IN, I've been using a Stratux. It's the ultimate CB solution, cost me about $140 to put together and has the same functionality as the other portable ADS-B IN solutions out there. It integrates with most EFB's out there including Foreflight, although I only use Fltplan Go (yet another CB solution for free). I've scheduled to put in a KT-74 for the ADS-B OUT part in a couple months, I'll update people on how that goes. I already have a Garmin 530W. My estimate was $4300 ($2500 for the KT-74, and the rest parts and labor). I'm hoping the labor ends up less than the 16 hours they are estimating, they're an avionics repair station but they've only done UAT installs so far, so this should be much easier. I should get $1100 back ($500 from FAA rebate, $500 BK rebate, and $100 trade in for old KT-76A).

I thought the 930 had to be installed in the center or left panel to qualify as a primary instrument?

One point to add so far is that ROP, your power is predominantly determined by the engine's airflow (air intake per sec). MAP/MAP(max) x RPM/RPM(max) is a direct measure of this, which is why you can make a power chart out of just those to numbers. Mixture (and fuel flow) only affects your power by a few percentage points, because it is the amount of air that limits the power produced. At 10k ft, WOT should give you a MAP of about 20.5", and at 2500 RPM, my 1986 M20J POH lists that as 60% power. If you do the math, (20.5/29.92) x (2500/2700) = 63%. Actual power is always a little lower since there is some friction to airflow in the intake system. The POH lists fuel flow as 10.2 as best power, 8.7 at best economy (25 degF ROP). LOP, the opposite occurs--your power is only determined by fuel flow. The MAP and RPM do not appreciably alter your power produced LOP, because there is already excess air; it is the fuel that limits the power produced, or Power = fuel flow x constant. The constant is essentially a measure of the engine's practical efficiency, which in turn is largely related to he compression ratio (which is constant for all IO-360's). I've not been able to dig up any numbers for the IO-360, which has a compression ratio of 8.7:1, but engines with 8.5:1 put out 13.9 hp per GPH LOP. That suggests the IO-360 might be about 14.2 hp per GPH, so your fuel flow at 120 hp (60%) LOP should be about 8.5 GPH, which is consistent with others have posted here. Getting above 9 GPH LOP is a real challenge at any altitude higher than 7-8k ft. OK, one other point--Lycoming officially says below 75% power you can lean to anything without risking damage. So officially, Lycoming says above 5000 ft at 2500 RPM, you can lean to anything. I'm not saying those settings are smart, but at 10k ft and 2500 RPM, you should be fine leaning to your heart's content without worrying

The nylon washer for the 2000 series fasteners is a #4 Nylon washer, part no. NAS1515-H-04L.