jaylw314

One point to add so far is that ROP, your power is predominantly determined by the engine's airflow (air intake per sec). MAP/MAP(max) x RPM/RPM(max) is a direct measure of this, which is why you can make a power chart out of just those to numbers. Mixture (and fuel flow) only affects your power by a few percentage points, because it is the amount of air that limits the power produced. At 10k ft, WOT should give you a MAP of about 20.5", and at 2500 RPM, my 1986 M20J POH lists that as 60% power. If you do the math, (20.5/29.92) x (2500/2700) = 63%. Actual power is always a little lower since there is some friction to airflow in the intake system. The POH lists fuel flow as 10.2 as best power, 8.7 at best economy (25 degF ROP). LOP, the opposite occurs--your power is only determined by fuel flow. The MAP and RPM do not appreciably alter your power produced LOP, because there is already excess air; it is the fuel that limits the power produced, or Power = fuel flow x constant. The constant is essentially a measure of the engine's practical efficiency, which in turn is largely related to he compression ratio (which is constant for all IO-360's). I've not been able to dig up any numbers for the IO-360, which has a compression ratio of 8.7:1, but engines with 8.5:1 put out 13.9 hp per GPH LOP. That suggests the IO-360 might be about 14.2 hp per GPH, so your fuel flow at 120 hp (60%) LOP should be about 8.5 GPH, which is consistent with others have posted here. Getting above 9 GPH LOP is a real challenge at any altitude higher than 7-8k ft. OK, one other point--Lycoming officially says below 75% power you can lean to anything without risking damage. So officially, Lycoming says above 5000 ft at 2500 RPM, you can lean to anything. I'm not saying those settings are smart, but at 10k ft and 2500 RPM, you should be fine leaning to your heart's content without worrying

The nylon washer for the 2000 series fasteners is a #4 Nylon washer, part no. NAS1515-H-04L.

Does the JPI-830 use a piggyback sensor or a spark plug gasket sensor? The spark plug gasket sensor can be 60 degF high or low depending the plane. The piggyback sensor is supposed to be more accurate, but I don't know how much more accurate. If you want to confirm the accuracy of your CHT probes, run your engine to working temps, then immediately after shutdown use an infrared thermometer to check each cylinder temp and compare to the 830's temps.

If you have an engine monitor, I'd suggest monitoring EGT's because they will tell you how each individual cylinder is doing. TIT is only important as an alarm. For example, flying ROP means rich of the FIRST cylinder to peak. peak TIT is kind of the average of all your cylinders, and doesn't tell you if one of your cylinders is taking a beating or how bad it is. I'd suggest flying by EGT's, and only using TIT as a limit. In other words, if you want to fly 75 ROP, set your leanest cylinder to 75 ROP, and then richen more if your TIT is over your comfort threshold (like 1600) Of course, what do I know, I fly a IO-360

My favorite line from Top Gear--"I've seen genital warts more attractive than the Panamera"

Not sure if all Mooney baggage doors are equal, but on the M20J the door opens from the inside even while locked. I just have a plastic cover over the handle, so I've tested it. I'm guessing you're supposed to be able to CLOSE the door from the inside as well, but mine sticks and won't completely latch.

The entire annual can be placed in one entry in the airframe log if the engine and prop elements are referenced in it. It makes sense to split it up, though, since the engine, prop and airframe might go separate ways in the future. I suppose you could just make one annual entry and then make copies to put in the prop and engine logs, too

Ground running is actually worse than letting the plane sit--it creates moisture without getting the oil hot enough to boil it off. If the plane sat in a dry climate, it may be okay. I bought a plane that flew almost none for 4 years that sat in NM, and when we borescoped the cylinders, only trace corrosion, and oil analyses have been reassuring. Make sure they borescope the cylinders and check the steel frame on the PPI. I'd want to make sure everything works when the plane is FLYING, not when it is on the ground. As such, the lack of completed annual would make me nervous. Remember, nobody can flight test it if it is out of annual.

Do any of the gyros use oils for lubricant? Although it seems unlikely that an AI or DG could hold enough oil to collect in the pumps...

How about this? http://advances.sciencemag.org/content/2/3/e1501496.full The basic idea is instead of designing fancy superhydrophobic coatings, they found coatings that were rubbery and flexible were candidates for ice-resistant coatings. Instead of preventing ice from accumulating, flexible coatings will deform at very low shear pressures, allowing the ice to shed. So maybe spraying the wing leading edges with truck bed liner?

The IO-360 A3B6 (non-D) I have uses REM38E's, Not sure why the A3B6D uses the long-nose type plugs The Tempest numbers are the same, they just add the U at the front.

+1 on the Skybolt replacements for the 2700's. The larger flange makes it less likely to pull through or wear through the fiberglass holes. Skybolt also makes replacements for the 4000 series fasteners, but I don't know if there is as big an advantage.

Escrow services are good when you're putting down a deposit--they'll hang on to the deposit until the transaction is completed. That way you'll know you get your deposit back without undue delay if there is some kind of disagreement. Much safer than handing the deposit to the seller. For that matter, it means you don't have to carry around a huge cashier's check around. Aerospace reports has a escrow/title search package. The peace of mind is well worth the cost. That was painfully funny because it's so freaking true.

Broken spring in the knob as expected. The "button" simply unscrews when you hold the knob still. The small loop at the end broke, allowing the spring to slip off the button's shaft. I called my A&P, he has a junk control that he can give me the spring out of. I confirmed the cable was still attached at the governor and the cable controls it through its full range.

IIRC, Lycomings IO-360's fire the 1&3 bottom and 2&4 top by the right magneto, and 1&3 top and 2&4 bottom by left magneto. Since the firing order is 1-3-2-4, 1B has to be the opposite polarity of 4T, and 3B has to be the opposite polarity of 2T, hence the rotation sequence. Rotating only bottoms or only tops would only work if you knew the two magnetos were firing the tops with opposite polarity. I don't know if there's a way to make sure of that with separate mags (apparently they are fixed that way with the Bendix dual-mag), but I'm guessing there isn't, in which case you only have a 50:50 chance.

Anyone know where to get the spring? I'll check tomorrow, I suspect the "pop" was the spring breaking... The engine was a factory reman and is only about 150 hours old...

Oooohkay, so I was flying around today and the prop control broke. The push button on the handle stuck in when I did my GUMPS checklist, and I heard it pop. Afterwards, the knob just spun around without changing the RPMs. I could still push and pull the knob to control it, I just couldn't make small adjustments. After I landed, I futzed around with the button and was able to pull it out, at which point spinning the knob worked again. However, pressing the button again just stuck in the "in" position until I could tease it out with my fingernails. So my guess is, it's just a problem with the knob, not the control cable. There must be some kind of spring that pushes the button out that broke. Is this a common problem? Are those knobs repairable, or do I need to replace the whole cable? I don't want to risk grounding the plane while ordering parts with my instrument checkride next week. On the other hand, I'm guessing it would look pretty fishy to the DPE if I was frantically trying to pull out the button after the runup... I think the plane is still safe to fly--fine prop control is really a safety issue, and the prop control is stiff enough it won't change on its own.

Ah. Didn't realize that. I have an A3B6 with two Slick mags.

If you use fine wires on the bottoms, how do you end up rotating your plugs?

That's the Whelen Orion 650, both LED position lights and strobes. No bulbs. The bulb in the photo is the M20J recognition light, not the landing light. The J only has one in the cowl. For your K, why don't you just replace one landing light with LED's? That way you invest half the cost and can see if it's worth replacing the other. You'll still cut your current load, and you won't have to worry about both bulbs burning out.

Holy smokes, now there's a good PIREP. I wasn't sure if portable concentrators could work at altitude, that's good to know. The aerox valve is a fixed pressure regulator (I'm guessing 25 PSI but they don't say). The actual flow is adjusted by a needle valve in the line with a flow meter. Most medical regulators are also pressure regulators, but each setting is calibrated to a flow rate, presumably at sea level. I use this medical regulator without a needle valve

I got my portable oxygen cylinder from here https://www.cramerdeckermedical.com/category.php?category_id=2 You can order them with a low-profile CGA-540 valve for $11 that takes up much less space than the typical CGA-540. It looks a lot like the valves Aerox uses on their regulators. Industrial gas and welding supplies will refill tanks with CGA-540 valves. It cost me $12 to refill a D size tank

Didn't want to get that technical, but yes, it would be practically impossible

All other things being equal, if you plane to resell the plane at some point, the higher-time aircraft would make more sense. It has depreciated more already, and the fastest depreciation occurs early in time and flight-hours. The 5 hours in 4 years is worrying. I bought an M20J with a similar problem (new engine, then only flew 20 hours in 4 years). Luckily it sat in New Mexico, so when they borescoped the cylinders, there was only minimal corrosion. I just don't know how the camshaft and crankshaft held up, but at least the oil analyses look good. I would definitely ask if they had borescoping and oil analyses documented.

There is only one possible problem with using oxygen at low altitude. If you are chronically hypoxic (usually from pulmonary disease, so presumably for months or years, not hours), sudden administration of oxygen can actually cause you to stop breathing. I think it's a good bet you're not chronically hypoxic if you're flying so I think you'd be ok. Look at all the athletes and crazies who believe in hyperbaric or superoxygenated therapy. Okay, maybe not a good example...