Pictreed

Exactly why I replaced it. Not sure how long it's been that way.

Here's what mine looks like in place

Mine acted the same way so I pulled the button out of the yoke.

Rats, that's the one I need to remove. Thanks Clarence.

It's not a concern. I was in the same place you are once. I bought the plane and was worried about it until I talked to the prop shop. My inspection runs about $180 and I have to fly to an airport 14 miles away...I'm there anyway doing a VOR check every month so not a big deal. I would expect Clarence to fill you in soon on what a waste of time it is to worry about this simple inspection that shouldn't exist anyway from what I hear from the guys who have been doing this for a long time and actually know what they're talking about.

What kind of patching material have you guys used? I guess it would be available at Aircraft Spruce?

I'm going to get a reseal on my tanks but how would I make a temporary repair for now? It's leaking on the inboard side at the bottom. I can see it from inside the cabin. I'd like to open the tank access and just pooky some material in the corner to slow it down for now. Tim

I think I’ll do the full seal. I’ll probably talk to Don first though.

Now i need to figure out Houston or Minnesota for the repair.

Annual done but after when we were getting ready for test flight I found right tank empty. When I got back from the test flight I had a 1 second drip from the right tank under the fuselage. I took out the interior on that side I found some gooey putty round what must have been a pretty good leak. The putty wasn't noticeable until I removed the top layer and the fuel really started to flow. I knew it had a leak and needed to be fixed but I guess I can't wait now. htt bTv9ynZaSF6xZEaZ4W4NKg.MOV

Actual panel lights or those hot bullets on the overhead?

My 65 E has it.

All good advice and info. I see what you guys are saying, shorten the twists so the brace on the backside keeps the wire from moving. Is the safety wire there to keep it from moving at all or just unscrewing completely? I thought it was just to keep it in place if it did back out a bit. I've rebuilt a few VW engines but of course they don't have them. Not nit picking at all...I've been told by everyone to get rid of the jabbing hazard. That copper washer is 'convex' that came off an old battery but you guys think I need a lock washer on top of that one? Anthony or whoever suggested the electric grease, I picked some up today to keep that thing clean from now on. Shouldn't you leave the lower nut as a 'hold back'? I didn't know it's that sensitive. Hope I didn't already ruin it but I don't think I got it that tight till I got the grease on it. I was going to use dielectric compound I had but picked up the Dow stuff instead...not sure of the difference. I love this community. Sometimes pride is a hard pill to swallow but the advice is good. Thanks guys.

Hopefully this is the right direction. If not, well I’m having fun and will do it again.

It is adjusted right and has more room but I’ll replace the belt next time the prop is serviced.

I'll get it fixed and repost. I'll have to look at the mounting bolt. I didn't remember a wire being on there but maybe it's on the back side.

Gotcha covered. Hopefully I did that right.

Starter is installed and sealed up.

Only assembled. Although it needs a new rubber boot.

Not sure if this washer is suppose to be zinc that goes to the solenoid? So I’m putting a brass flat washer on it.

I’m wondering if this was some of my starter issues? Solenoid wire....

Hopefully the new boot will be in by Friday from LASAR with a new gascolator gasket and o-rings. Someone didn’t have the proper gasket and shaved this one down...pic. We found a cross threaded fuel injector line this weekend. So hopefully fixing that clears up some minor back firing issues when the engine is started back up after fueling or such.

Looks like a LASAR part? I'll order it tomorrow.

I'm wondering if LASAR changed the material or if they just copied it?

That brings up another question. The boot from the power boost into the fuel injection body has at least 1 hole. Some guys are saying to patch it. Do you guys have any experience with that? LASAR was out but should have some more in for a few bills.