MikeOH

Great suggestion! I never would have thought of fuel line diameter. Thank you!! And, my CHTs need to monitored closely; especially with summer temps. I've already overhauled the oil cooler, replaced the oil lines, checked the vernatherm and still experience high oil temps and low oil pressure. Maybe more fuel flow will help with those issues, as well; at least on take-off.

Going off Savvy data, my M20F is a couple of gallons/hr low at full power. Their data suggest close to 18 gph at takeoff and I'm at 16 gph. Fuel pressure is good and boost pump is working properly. Injectors have been cleaned with no difference noted. Where should I start looking? Thanks!

Remember, though, it's a dry heat...so, a gazillion only feels like a bazillion

Hmm, what is "a while?" If "the when" is coincident with the oversized alternator then I may have to reconsider my position Popping the breaker when turning the alternator OFF is just not right; something wacky is going on. Low RPM suggests the load is being supplied by the battery rather than the alternator, which doesn't seem right, either (that was normal with generators at low RPM). I wonder if you have a partial/intermittent short in the field circuit? Check all the wiring. I realize that's easier said than done. Good luck!

Certainly plausible. Again, though, if the circuit breaker is unchanged it seems less likely; it current limits to protect the field circuit which would include the VR.

Help me understand your comment better... IF his alternator has the ABILITY to put out more current than a standard one, then an OVERLOAD is just that: something ELSE wrong that needs to be addressed. So, how does going back to the 'standard' alternator fix the underlying issue? Seems to me it only masks the real issue. Further, my admittedly limited understanding of VRs is that they modulate field current to maintain a constant voltage under varying load conditions. As such, does the field current really rise to a level that will fry the VR? I'd be curious to know just how much, in Amperes, the field current actually rises over a 'stock' alternator at max output when the alternator is putting out 50% more than standard. An alternator is basically a mechanical power amplifier; i.e., 50% increase in output does NOT mean a 50% increase in required field current. Along those lines there is a field circuit breaker. Unless that has been changed out for one of larger capacity, I find it even harder to believe the oversized alternator is responsible for frying the VR. But, I'm open to counter arguments to my points.

I think that's the BEST aviation finances comment EVER! A first time owner really needs to take that to heart...if you are going to flinch at dropping a grand now and again...you are NOT ready for ownership.

Damn, Rags, we must own the same M20F I've only had my Mooney for just under 2 years. First year, all-in, was about $18K for just under 100 hours. Prop reseal (but, no cylinders!). Hangar is $365/month (SoCal) and my insurance is $1056/year. MSC annual inspection was $2K with $2.5K in repairs (not all airworthiness issues). Still need to spend on the ADS-B out

Thank you! Very useful.

YUCK! If that's true, then I'm not likely to go Getting up at 8, drive to the airport, pre-flight, take off at 9, ....stay until 4:00, take-off ?, back by 5:00, drive home...WIFE will NOT be happy

Looks good! Do you know the air show schedule? The website shows 12:00 pm to 4:00 pm, but I don't want to be stuck until 4:00 pm. I'd like to know if they are going to provide departure windows during that 4 hour time block.

YIKES! I fear this project mostly because of removing the brittle plastic headliner. And, the fact I have no idea how to remove the sun visor posts!

That's my exact take on this, as well. While the TVSs sound great, I don't think that's the fix for just the reason you state. Based on a bad experience replacing a fuel pump relay in a car several times, I determined there is a HUGE difference in the quality of relays (i.e. the replacements are no where near the quality of the OEM part, or even the OEM part is now sub-standard). First thing I'd do is pull apart the factory relay and compare it to the short-lived replacement. Differences can be subtle, too. The type of plating and its thickness used on the contacts themselves, for example.

Slight thread creep...my scoop opens and closes wonderfully, but there is really not much air coming out of the vents. I'm afraid to ask, but what's going on and what's it going to take to fix?

Thank you! Most appreciated!

Good for you! Would you mind sharing the name of the 'boneyard?' I'd like to buy a spare actuator for myself to keep on hand for when my 20:1 gears go south.

Rough numbers for my '70F: 8.5 gph, LOP, 7.5K to 10K feet, WOT, 2500 rpm, 140 KTAS

Damn! You're taking this well; I'd be pretty PO'ed at the ground controller. It's almost like he set you up! I mean, you made an honest mistake missing a turn, then he told you what to do, knowing full well where you were, you did what he said....then he rats you out. If he'd kept his mouth shut that would have been the end of it! And, it sounds like you didn't even cross the dreaded RED LINE! SHEESH!

And, folks, there you have it!

Hmm, me thinks they will come with 80 grit

I struggle greatly with that statement. My gears will eventually need to be replaced, but they've served me and prior owners well for thousands of hours. Frankly, I don't care if the new 40:1 gears will last 100,000 hours... I'm unlikely to put enough hours on the plane to care. And, as far as future buyers; if they walk because I have the 'old' 20:1 gears, I'll count myself lucky not to deal with a buyer that picky! Honestly, I like how fast my gear goes up and down I know what I'd do if the decision was $500 in parts vs. $1600!

Curious what time schedule they gave you. They've had your plane for 3 weeks and almost have it stripped...is that reasonable for the schedule?

Lard

This thread 'reminded' me that I need to deal with this ADSB-Out thing in the somewhat near future... So, after reading through this thread, and a few others over the past year, I still have a few questions regarding the KT-74: 1) Does a Garmin 430W have to have a particular firmware version for position source ONLY output? (Not interested in the other stuff) 2) Is it really only a single wire from the 430W to the KT-74? (The EE in me expects a return connection!) 3) Can anyone confirm the Peregrine STC is free? (It seemed that way when I communicated with Pacific Coast Avionics; they said to just download from Peregrine's site. 4) Does that mean the STC is generic? (I thought STCs were paired with individual aircraft???) 5) Is the airspeed switch still required? 6) If it is, how much is it, and where do I buy it? 7) Can an A&P sign off on all of the above after I do the install? Thanks!

That possibility has always scared me...so, I have a rule (that has worked, so far, anyway): If the tow bar is hooked to the airplane the other end is in my hand!